UKC

Fiend commands you thus because Fiend spent 15 minutes abseiling down, hacking all the plants off, gouging out the mud with a nutkey, brushing off holds and generally getting covered in dust and shit. And now it's an attractive, clean VS 4b like it should be.

While one is there, Slab Dab VS 4c and Ha'Penny Arete E1 5a are also well worth doing. Plus it's a nice setting, cool and shady for the current sunny weather, a lake to paddle in, and an exceptionally well mown (thanks to the local farmer breeding genetically enhanced 'super-sheep') field to marvel at at the top.

In reply to Fiend: gardening!!! thats disgraceful, care you not abot the ecosystem!

In reply to Jon Greengrass: I had to do some gardening today... I had to mow the lawn in fear of loosing the kids in it....

In reply to marie: You should see the "sheep-mown" field at the top of DV. It's like a bloody putting green!

P.S. This cleaning was for the benefit of Andy who subsequently led it as his first VS...

In reply to Fiend: pah, should have led it with a brush and a trowel, he might as well have top-roped it, what a loser.

In reply to Jon Greengrass:

Troll attempt: Failed. Climbs are graded for clean conditions.

In reply to Fiend: bollocks are they! how are you suppose to have fun otherwise?

In reply to marie: rof!
sorry i didnt reply earlier was busy dealing with fiends
lose your kids? sounds like a plan maybe you should look at getting a rabbit with a bigger appetite?

In reply to Jon Greengrass:

Climb with hosey!

In reply to Fiend: Is that an order

In reply to Jon Greengrass: Naaaa just an option if climbing clean routes isn't fun enough. The original post is an order tho =).

In reply to Fiend:

Ha'penny Arete's a bit bold isn't it - how did you find it?

Agree with the grade?

In reply to Anonymous:

Yes, bold, but reasonably safe - in grand Fiend tradition I shoved 4 good bits of gear in that lone slot by the ledge =). E1 5a sounds just right...

In reply to Fiend: If you intend to climb this corner clean I would say do it quickly, we cleaned this very same crack at the end of last summer in the hope that it would stay clean, climbed it about 6 weeks ago and it was as dirty as ever. So be clean...be quick.

cheers
t

In reply to Fiend: Crikey - 4 bits of gear in the slot? I've never seen anyone manage ANY gear in that route at all. Still, it's a bloody good route for an old and dirty Lancashire ex-quarry.

How were the other routes left of Renegade Corner? Xanadu and Leftless - were they green as well?

I've not been to Deeply Vale climbing for a few years now, but when it's clean there are some great routes there, especially Mein Kampf and the first half of Inflexion (Direct), scuttling off rightwards down the vdiff at half height.

Slab Dab is a great little route too - if the top's not too loose by now.

In reply to Anonymous: Lucky enough for this to be my local, living about ten mins walk away. Unfortunatley it hasnt been in brilliant condition all year and left of the corner is quite green, although strangly enough it is dry at the mo and there is grip. pinfold not far away is much cleaner and between the two there is a good evening/short days climbing there.

T

In reply to Tony Marshall: Is Pinfold really that good? Went there in the 80s and did some climbing, but if it was me, it wouldn't have been put in the guide at all.

As for the 2 routes left of Renegade Corner, it's a pity they're nearly always green. Xanadu in particular is a great route and a top effort from Derek Kenyon as his first Hard VS lead (It's more like E3).

In reply to Anonymous: Well Dereks a personal friend of mine and I thought that it was an E3 in the book. I think pinfold is rather good but again I am only ten mins away. Six nipples is good, there are two ok VS to the left and the over hang to the right with I think a VS up the right hand side and a HVS and E something or other on more direct lines. Still very clean rock, ignoring the weeds, and some interesting bolders.

T

In reply to Anonymous: By the way, you wouldn't be Derek would you??

T

In reply to Tony Marshall:

Nah... 's me.

In reply to Phil Kelly: Ah ha i thought it was someone familiar, plugging Derek like that. Reeped of the man himself. We met briefly at Stanage plantation bit a few months ago.( I think I may have wound you up a little regards bolting...just my sense of humour)

Is there any news on the bolting debate rescheduling?

T

In reply to Tony Marshall:
>> We met briefly at Stanage plantation

Ssshhh, you'll blow me cover.

I remember now - you both walked off laughin cos we hadn't got the car park money.

As for the bolting debate, we'll be kicking it off again in a short while, don't you worry.

In reply to Phil Kelly: Thats right, you had no money, neither did we but a guy gave us his ticket so that just left us with the treck to high neb cos Derek had the wrong car park. Did you have a good day?

T