UKC

Was graded Diff, then VS 5a (or 5b in the Rockfax guide), now upgraded to HVS 6a!
See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=244839&v=1

Can't wait to try it myself, out of curiosity.

Anyone on here done it?

In reply to Eric Herring:

Of course!


Chris

In reply to Eric Herring:

2002 BMC Stanage guide

"The wide crack provides a good route for learning offwidth techniques. Using blocks to the right to get started is cheating, but eminently sensible."

So, maybe the new guide says do it honest, rather than cheating?

PGE , Dec 2001, grades it HVS 5b, but says:

"The wide crack in the tower in the bay is impossible to grade, and just about as hard to climb. Graded Diff for years."


And Eastern Grit - Aug 2006 - (p.103, not in index) VS 5b:
"The wide crack in the tower in the centre of the bay remains a rarely repeated enigma - it was graded Diff for years."

Can't say all that lot makes me want to go and try it...

In reply to Eric Herring: Sounds brilliant. Just added it to my wishlist

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Come on then Chris, tell all! I am genuinely interested.

I love this kind of obscure-ish enigma type route. I have done vast numbers of routes on Stanage over the years, and I love the fact that there are still loads of little, unobvious but fascinating bits of it still to enjoy for the first time.

In reply to Dominion:

What really? Ungradeable Diff 6a oddness is for me a big part of the joy of real rock....

In reply to Eric Herring:

I tried it at the end of a day when I was tired (my excuse) and couldn't do it.

J

In reply to Ropeboy:

That is (potentially) at least as interesting as someone getting up it. Not for the beta, but for the battle (I fancy 'Beta Battle Tears' as a route name, play on Bitter Battle Tears' at Shorn Cliff). Unless you got two feet off the ground, and then went 'Nah, another time' - that would not be interesting.

In reply to Eric Herring:

I first tried it back in the early 70s when it was Diff, failed so solo it in boots, then failed to solo it in rock shoes (was leading VS at the time), then failed to lead it - not that there was any gear.
Fast-forward 10 years and I managed to solo it - I was leading E3 at the time - I gave it the HVS 5b.
Would be surprised if it is anywhere near 6a though.

Get on it!

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Willdo mate, first opportunity...

In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:

Bugger, forgotten since Friday how to find a route in the database, told you it was not intuitive in the pub.

I know that a route roundabout Cleft Wing was given moderate, then HVS in the next guide, then down to diff again, probably someone could not get the routes right.

Not high anyway, soloed it in nails in the 50s, wonder what it was

In reply to Eric Herring:

Jesus christ, surely not, this has to be the ultimate and saddest example of grade creep, who the hell has graded Nursery (sic) Crack HVS 6a, they want shooting.

In reply to sutty: Keith the classic was always Marmoset (I think) is that what you are on about? It started life as moderate, but became in one guide, Impossible! Its actually about severe!

In reply to Ropeboy:
Ha ha, John failed on a Diff!!!

In reply to Al Evans:

Could be, not on one of the main buttresses anyway but on a small buttress with only four or five routes on it.

In reply to Al Evans:

I thought it was 6a when I first didn't do it and then when I didnt do it again

Being serious, I initially argued to give it HVS 5c in our "Offwidth" pages after I battled my way to the top in typical canine fashion, then someone found a trick. Also as a boulder problem its certainly about two grades harder than the offwidth 'Seconds Out' (Pearly Gates) at Roaches Spring Boulders (now given 5b but originally 5c).

Then after the disturbed lichen has settled, and straight logic is broken by the neccesary human factors, you have to look at things like love (what better motivation to improve traffic over an ascent a year), potential sadism (imagine all those beanie boys heading for thier first 6a) cheap advertising (UKC still dont have the new guide as news afterall) or even simple mistakes.

In reply to Offwidth:

I'm one of those that did it the 'eminently sensible' way, and that was tricky enough. At least 5a, probably more like 5b, so I can see why the grade keeps going up and up.

I must go back and try it the purists way.

In reply to Offwidth:


I believe it is being worked on as we chat



Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs: The mistakes ?

In reply to Offwidth:

...... the review!


I am currently collating the mistakes!


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Lynn found one in about 3 seconds from first opening the book. The fact its on the acknowledgements page worried me. I felt happy I spotted several without even opening it but then I thought Grimer's probably toying with us.

In reply to Chris Craggs:


I like the idea that you are referring to someone working the route, there since the weekend and hoping to top out before the end of the week. Portaledge three feet off the ground anyone?

In reply to Chris F:

I was "John Cox'd" on it!

It was the first time I climbed with John Cox and we were doing Harvest (with Simon Cox, no relation). I had the honour of doing Terrazza Crack to warm up on and several serious attempts on Harvest. This had left me quite exhausted before throwing myself on the Vice and several other tiring routes before attempting Nursery Crack. Am I 'nursing' my excuse enough?

By the way, when did you change your profile to Chris F rather than Chris Fryer?

J

In reply to Chris Craggs:

You can add the fact that Ruby Robinson is not me to your list LOL! I know I appear a few times in the guide, but I'm not so greedy as to want to appear as other people as well LOL!

In reply to Caralynr:

Have you got a page ref for that?

Cheers



Chris