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Kilnsey

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 Chazz 05 Jun 2007
Just got a text from my brother informing me that I'm going to Kilnsey this evening to do Smooth Torquer and Comedy.
Anyone got any advice for these routes?

Cheers.
In reply to Chazz:
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Smooth talker is bouldery start followed by some big moves off big jugs, finishing with a knarly finish. If you have a long clipstick you can put all the draws in to save weight. If you are going for the flash take a good look at the holds from all angles so you have a good idea which are good and which parts etc.

Not done comedy but its a lot steeper especially at the start. Make sure you have worked the finishing slab as i know several people who had only worked the "tough" bit and messed up on the "easy" slab after finally getting through the tough bits.

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Cheers
Tim
 Adam Lincoln 05 Jun 2007
In reply to tbertenshaw:
> (In reply to Chazz)
> <BetaAlert>
>Make sure you have worked the finishing slab as i know several people who had only worked the "tough" bit and messed up on the "easy" slab after finally getting through the tough bits.

Cookie?

OP Chazz 05 Jun 2007
In reply to tbertenshaw: Thanks Tim. I might go for the flash but given that I'm not much of a sport climber might just do it bolt to bolt to start off with.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: LOL

couldn't possibly comment....

Cheers
Tim
 John Cooke 05 Jun 2007
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Yep the slab's falloffable! Make sure you wire it.

Both routes are pretty similar in that they involve big throws between decent holds. If in doubt just lay it on.
 andi_e 05 Jun 2007
In reply to Chazz: Smooth Torquer is quite easy, a few sharp pulls into big jugs to a tricky finish, (get a high foot, that might help). Never been on comedy but I saw aforementioned cookie fall
OP Chazz 06 Jun 2007
In reply to Chazz: I managed to bolt to bolt smooth torquer, the start was quite easy but I was just so pumped afterwards. Suppose thats what I get for only ever piddling around on boulders!
 Andy Farnell 06 Jun 2007
In reply to andi_e:
> (In reply to Chazz) Smooth Torquer is quite easy, a few sharp pulls into big jugs to a tricky finish, (get a high foot, that might help).

You can say it's easy when you've done it youth

Andy F


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