UKC

Would like to do this route but it will probably be with a less experienced partner. How sustained is it as no pitch grades are given ? Don't know if its true but have heard its quite hard for the grade. Also is it generally well-protected especially the long traverse ? Thanks.

In reply to Pete.T:
I don't remember it being that sustained, but a hold has appartley broken going thru the roof since I climbed it so no idea as to how it goes now. It's still a long day though!
Gear can be spaced, as is expected, but the traverse pitch seemed ok.

In reply to Pete.T: It's definitely got pitch grades in Scottish Rock Climbs and N.Highlands Central. From memory 1 of 5a and 2/3 of 4c. The traverse has plenty of gear, there is a bold 4c slab section lower down but it's straight up. You can easily run the easier top pitches together. Great route, can't believe there are many better VS days out in the country.

In reply to Pete.T:

Definately high (but fair) in the grade. The moves through the overlap are strenuous, and there is barely-protected 4c climbing on the lower slab.

Personally, even as professional instructor I'd be a bit nervous about taking someone less experienced on this route unless I was absolutely certain they could second the whole route and wouldn't get tired out or worn down by the not inconsiderable exposure. Retreating would be complex to say the least.

Taken in isolation the traverse is safe enough; not that long and you should be able to stitch it.

Pitch Grades are
30m 4b
25m 4a
15m 4c
25m 4c
25m 5a
20m 4b
20m 4a
20m 4a
20m 4b
20m 4a

In reply to Pete.T: Tsk tsk!! Your finger gonna cope?

In reply to lasonj:

Never mind his finger, it's how I'll cope you should be worried about!

In reply to Pete.T: Cheers for the replies. Will need to think about getting a new guide obviously.
Hey Sonia. No the finger is not up to climbing anything at the moment but am just daydreaming and making plans for the future. Fionn Buttress is extremely high on the list of things to do !

In reply to Pete.T:

Just been paging through Scottish Rock and have added this to my wishlist about two minutes ago. Imagine my surprise when I turned back to the forums page and saw a thread named for it!

In reply to Pete.T:

If you can spare the time, don't do it as a day trip. The slog through the forestry commission bit will wear you down and detract from the route.

We walked in and did the long HVD up the cigar-shaped buttress, then bivvied in the cattle shed.

Next day did Fionn and walked out in time for dinner at the pub. Magnificent.

As for the route, it's gorgeous. I think 5a is a bit generous - if you are a confident VS leader you'll have no issues. The traverse isn't so scary and has loads of gear.

Go to it and enjoy it!

J