UKC

Ape Index

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 alexrp 18 Jun 2007
What exactly is the "ape index". How do you calculate it? I think mine must be fairly positive. Not that it does me any good as I still climb s&!t. What ape index do other UKCers have?
 Glyn Jones 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp: I have gravel rash on my knuckles
OP alexrp 18 Jun 2007
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Ouch! Is it gravel rash (or who did you hit)?
banned profile 74 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp: its the difference between your height and the distance from fingertip to fingertip with arms outstretched.im 5'7,my wingspan is 5'8 so my ape index is known as +1 i.e. my wingspan is 1" bigger than my height.

think most climbers are 0 to +3
 Glyn Jones 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp: Measure your span across from tip of finger to tip of opposite finger. Now divide that by your height - positive then your reach is more than your height and you are a gibbon!
OP alexrp 18 Jun 2007
In reply to Glyn Jones & beast of ackworth

Just a mo. I'll grab a tape measure.
 tonanf 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp: couldnt resist mesauring, Im +4
 Dave Murphy 18 Jun 2007
In reply to tonanf:

same ere +4
 Glyn Jones 18 Jun 2007
In reply to tonanf: monkeyboy!
 Glyn Jones 18 Jun 2007
In reply to Dave Murphy: Monkeyboy!
OP alexrp 18 Jun 2007
+1!

Somthimg strangely sinister about measuring parts of your bhody and posting results online though!
 tonanf 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp: it is indeed a peculiar behaviour.
banned profile 74 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:
> +1!
>
> Somthimg strangely sinister about measuring parts of your bhody and posting results online though!


especially if you are the original poster llf
 Dave Murphy 18 Jun 2007
In reply to Glyn Jones:
> (In reply to Dave Murphy) Monkeyboy!



but climb like a pig, summat is up?
OP alexrp 18 Jun 2007
In reply to tonanf:

What and climbing cliffs isn't??
 BelleVedere 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:

-6"

its one of my many excuses
hugedyno 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:
> What ape index do other UKCers have?

6' 3" tall, +3 ape index, so absolute span 6' 6".

HD.
Flaming_climber 18 Jun 2007
In reply to hugedyno: Mines +4 as well.
Flaming_climber 18 Jun 2007
In reply to Flaming_climber: And damn it. Im only 5'11. But i do have a 6'3 reach.
 Fidget 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:

Best (most accurate) and easiest way to measure - lie on floor, feet against wall, get somebody to mark top of your head. Turn 90 degrees and lie on front so your arm span covers the area where your body was. The difference between the previous mark, and where your fingertips reach, in inches, is your ape index. If arm span is longer it's positive, if height is longer it's negative.

Most people are slightly positive.

I'm +4.
OP alexrp 18 Jun 2007
Keep 'em coming. Is there any correlation btween ape index and best onsight?
 kevin k 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp: +3.5 !! that must be from carrying my beer home from the off license!
either that or landing on my head too much
banned profile 74 18 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:
> Keep 'em coming. Is there any correlation btween ape index and best onsight?


wouldnt say relationship between that and onsight but the better climber tend to have apes of +3 or larger.the ideal climber would have short legs(for high steps) and long arms.well ive got short legs so thats a start but only a 5'7" wingspan which isnt as good but i cant use that as an excuse.
 timjones 18 Jun 2007
In reply to beastofackworth:

I have a feeling that the high ape index = good climber theory falls apart as you get taller. At 6'4" any extra arm length that I need to tuck in on scrunchy moves is a negative rather than a positive IMO ;(
 Will Hunt 19 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:
Are you sure its span DIVIDED by height and not span MINUS height? If so then I need to do a recalculation.
banned profile 74 19 Jun 2007
In reply to Will Hunt: course its span minus heigh if you divided it it would be a silly number
 ben8522 19 Jun 2007
im a +3 , but my bro is a +4.5 !
if only he was a climber !
Ian Hill 19 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:

I'm +8 inches

Someone else on here usually pops up with +7

Best thing is it gives you more room to move your feet around on overhanging rock
 Fredt 19 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:

mine's +6"
 Tufas Mum 19 Jun 2007
In reply to Ian Hill:

Rich Mayfield is +7

I am +5 but still a crap climber.

Sam :0)
 heidavey 19 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp: +8, +6, +7, +5

Bunch of mutants!!!

walking around with sore knuckles all the time...











Sorry, just jealous.

+1

 climbingrick 19 Jun 2007
In reply to alexrp:

just reading and found a post "i'm only 5'11"

id kill to be 5'11.

im 5'3 and ape of 0

 Fiend 22 Jun 2007
In reply to cider nut:

> I'm +4.

Blooming albatross!
 soveda 22 Jun 2007
In reply to Fiend:
Ape index 0 but 6'1"
hugedyno 22 Jun 2007
In reply to soveda:

I think Ste Mac's Ape index is 0 and he seems to get by okay.

;-P
HD.
 soveda 22 Jun 2007
In reply to hugedyno:
Nah, he must have gecko pads on his fingers then ;*)
In reply to alexrp: I'm 5" with AP of +3 & 1/8....bring it on!
 eagleopus 22 Jun 2007
In reply to timjones:

I guess I'm lucky then as I'm 5'9 with an ape of only 0 but have a short torso and long limbs. So for my hight have a disproportionate reach and can fold up when hand and foot holds get close together.

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