/ JOHNNY LIVE ON ROCKTALK 6.30pm
eh, who is "Johnny"?
So what's the first question, how's it going to be asked, and how will we know it's JD answering?
OK: Ed Douglas's third initial is your password, JD - needed to prove your identity.
(That can be the first question, if you like.)
Do you think Mark Edwards' achievements are under acknowledged?
errr, right i guess your waiting for a question so...
are you still working that wizard ridge?? looked a little bit on the tricky side on hard grit! do you think it will go in the near future or is it a more long term thing?
Do you believe John Dunne led Parthian Shot?
You mean he didn't initial every book at school? You didn't notice it? Blimey. First letter of the school then.
And: best route you didn't climb but someone else did.
Mark Edwards? Hard done by, or a brat?
re "where are the holds on smoked salmon?"
the holds are in your body and only your imagination will get them out
(airlie, who is here to de-cheese johnny's answers, chokes "that's so heavily spread I can't de-cheese it")
More questions than you can type replies to, I bet. It's like being on the end of a phone line with a big delay. Persevere though.
What do you think of this medium? Is there anything the Net can bring to climbing? Or vice-versa?
Johnny, you were saying about five years ago that we were going to see some really interesting things happening on grit with people bringing limestone finger strength on to it. Do you feel that's happened?
And, what are the rules for this hopping up routes business? Only one leg? The other knee? No elbows, I take it?
airlie says "you're not come across him at stanage in the evening though are you johnny considering that he lives in Cornwall"
If he wanted to improve his climbing as much as possible and see how he's doing Wales, The Peak and The Lakes are really good places to climb and get an idea of what other climbers are doing. Having said that it's totally true that I don't go to the Lakes or Cornwall much , I'm Peak and Wales-centric cause the climbs there are my favourites.
re your first question I feel limestone has increased power but grip is the precious commodity on these routes and to develop more grip as and when it's needed requires speeding up the unconscious I suppose. To do this you need to go on one my workshops.
(everyone in the room cracks up)
Before they go up in price.
Why don't you believe John Dunne led Parthian Shot?
Equilibrium. Big step forward or over-hyped?
Thank you. I'm off climbing.
what do you reckon about Jerry M using Pof on grit
does it happen, does it matter??
What do you think of this medium? Is there anything the Net can bring to climbing? Or vice-versa?"
Climbers are an intelligent bunch but seem quite fearful. I wonder what climbers world-wide could achieve on a social level. The time is surely ripe to take control of organising everything so it's dead easy, cheap, and good fun. We have too much choice for the trees or whatever. The ideas I've got for my site are just waiting for me to get on with it.
Equilibrium I first tried in 1984. It is a very deceptive climb. Insecure but short and powerful.
Martin says "Bit like yourself Johnny"
For Neil to do it was very inspired. It's interesting that Ben who reckons he's really good hadn't got the balls to do the route even though it's only two moves if you're tall.
Airlie says "Killing three birds with one stone"
ever been surfing?
if not why not? i reckon you might have the balance ;-)
So which, say, three climbers out there at the moment do you find the most impressive?
You've been at the top of the ladder longer than most, so I was wondering if you can see the ceiling yet regarding the physically possible? Surely we must now be at the stage of cultivating sky-hook strength fingernails? I don't know, how does it look from where you are?
The crags are looking terrible. I feel uncomfortable climbing at them these days.
I feel sorry that the enthusiasm I put into loving the crag has resulted in so more people climbing. There needs to be a greater respect for the rock. It is not Saturday Night Lager it is key to the door champagne.
Pof on grit is another example of putting ego in front of love. Pof doesn't work on grit anyway, yet in actual fact on holds which are already wearing away it would help to bind the rock. The trouble is I'm yet to meet anybody who isn't an occasional arse-hole. We all need to start loving the rock more. Every time you use a foothold if you care about the rock's patina being worn out you are more likely to stay in contact with the rock since you are caring both for yourself and the rock from which we came in any case.
Leo impresses me. Leo's efforts in Yosemite. El Cap with one fall and I suppose that amazing problem that Fred Nicole's just done that's on the back of the magazines seems really beautiful. It's an interesting question because I don't see anything that doesn't involve training or travelling. I don't see people doing new things by new techniques, there are no "Ollie's". The really magically difficult climbs will come when people can make holds at will without thinking it through and being there when the climbs are ready for them. Malcom Smith impresses me. He really loves it all. And doesn't waste fuel to achieve his satisfaction.
We dropped a friend 3 and a half from the top and I was discussing it with the policeman. I then went on to discuss what a fantastic route it was. "Absolutely Fabulous" E7 6C 5a. The second pitch the crux. They said we were quicker than the previous lot. "We had to wait 4 hours for them". That was the bloke who got his rope got, Joe Simpson.
Hi. Apologies if this is common knowledge to most people, but here goes...
What age were you when you first began climbing properly and
what kind of grades were you climbing in your first couple of years?
;-). How weird would you say you were? :-)
This is kind of Jon R's question, but: when you look at End of the Affair today (top-roped, one way or another, by every man and his dog, headpointed over a winter by lots of people, etc.) do you feel sad? Or proud to have been responsible for something so popular? Or what?
When you can't hang on a hold but only just, it's possible to hang on the hold by using the process of jugification. If you swing your centre of gravity at the right time the hold can be made momentarily good enough. Really fast Crouching Tiger type movement can render any piece of rock into a contextual hold if rotational energy is used. Check-out the martial art of Bagua.
There are also tales of Tai-Chi masters who are able to make themselves very light. At times when I have been fully immersed I have been able to be much stronger than I am physically. I believe desire and familiarity with the crags's rhythms can untap super-normal performance. This is why I climb. To find out what I really am.
By the way, on the Stone Monkey video when Bob D gave you loads of slack on offspring, and you nearly hit the deck - did you hit him? I've always wondered! I bet you did.
Yes, certain Masters of the Arts believe weightlessness may be achieved through perfect balance. Did I detect these influences on your FA of Braille Trail?
Who's watching who?
Johnny will be back at 9pm to answer more questions.
I saw the French 8B video with Ben and Jerry, was that the last time?
Well don't forget to give Paul my love!...;0 )
(Typing this fast my a**e!)
I fully understand what you meant by that but how far does consideration for the animals and plants which try and share the crag environment with us play a part in your attitude towards climbing. If you take time to explore the threads, you'll soon find evidence of a "birds get in the way and are a bloody pest" type of mentality, as if climbers have sole right to the rock. What's your take on that, in an unheightened state of mind?
The questions on the lips of all Rocktalk regulars:
Is top-roping OK on Foggatt slabs?
Is the SPA a true mark of competence?
Foot and Mouth: is it a conspiracy?
Are you having a go at my dog?
What's your favourite TV programme?
Thanks for gracing this crucible of climbing opinion and max respect for your inspiration and vision.
It is about 10 times faster and is loads more convinent
And Johnny, Jude, thanks for arranging this.
like you i spent a bit of time at UEA Norwich, what do you think of Norfolk, HELL ON EARTH, or nice quiet place to get a way fromm it all??
Just got to this looks great, I'll try and catch and be ready for the second installment at 9
Johnny,you have put up a few routes on southern sandstone.How do you find this as a climbing medium?
Anyway my question is, of all the many routes which you have put up through the years which did you find, a) the hardest, b) the most satisfying achievement, and c) your own personal all time favourite climb.
How many times in a year do you find yourself really (really) satisfied with your performance?
How often do you find yourself in the "zone"?
Do you know that its going to happen and what do you think influences it?
For me its about 5 times a year and seems a bit random...
Thanks Dave F
do you think climbing is art. and have you ever tryed hale bopp in fontainbleu and whats the hardest dyno you know of.
they asked questions about how much wood was available 3 weeks before the f&m outbreak was announced.
fave tv programme: touring cars.
is top roping ok on frogatt: it's more fun to wait and solo it; it's possible to do them without your hands. artless great slab is a possible no-hands climb so maybe use your hands instead of a rope.
a) my longest link on wizard ridge 8C+
b) master's edge on the left with my right hand
c) my attempt on soloing the troll ryngen in Norway.
thanks for your kind words.
Do you think that the History and heritage of climbing is important. Do you think that these things are being lost in the wake of Climbing wall culture.
Just one more
Just wondered what the rest of your climbing life holds for you, do you still get the same buzz from new routes, or are you just more bothered about enjoying yourself now, do u have any climbing or indeed mountaineering ambitions that you hope to achieve?
Oh yes and why am i so crap? Lol
At last got the Boss off the phone.
Does our climbing history and tradition matter in the modern world of walls and convenience climbing in the peak? Or is it just making the move or doing the route that matters?
everything is expressing itself all the time. it is the timeliness of the expression and kindred spirit which is made obvious by the expression which determines the potency of the art, in my view. climbing is an experience of the moment where the moment rests on years of personal development and all time in developing the basis for the moment.
if rock had been designed by an artist his works would be priceless. slate has its own rhythm that smacks of the pressure involved in its making and limestone feels like a load of dead molluscs to climb and attracts the same ;-)
I have not tried hale bopp in font though i prefer mine of the same name at high rocks.
The hardest dyno i have done is in my imagination. As i go to sleep knowing what the move involves. it's complexity grows of it's own accord to satisfy me.
I'm really interested in developing my teaching to make it available globally. I intend to offer slabby pricing and moves to enable people to develop their own love of climbing more and to make sufficient money to develop a racing car built from vegetables. to do this i need to build a website better than rocktalk, please contact me to tell me what you would like on the site and how to afford to build it. goodnight. thank you all for your support.
Cheers Jude for setting this up
you should try halle bopp it's a really nice rock. whats the one you did like.
and 9b what do you think.
me and fred talked alot about you when we came to england last year
i'm off surfing noW johnny. aNY ADVICE, THE BABY IS CRYING.
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: I know you love Grit and Wales, do you ever go to Spain/France and just climb for fun?
I saw the French 8B video with Ben and Jerry, was that the last time?
didn't Boris Karloff go there too?
hey, charles arthur emailed me last night and said it's the first time that a rocktalk thread has been newsworthy and he's put a little news piece on the UKClimbing news page. Even the biscuit thread didn't get on that ;-) (johnny likes abbey crunch and digestives btw)
By the way, will somebody who knows him tell El Waddyo of Wales that he can do a rock 'n' surf one when he's next in Sheff if he fancies it. He won't get pizza though. He'll get sushi. I know how much he likes sticking fish in his gob from that Thailand photo many OTE issues ago :-)
I don't think the Waddy's famous enough for this board Jude - he aint a cover boy (he should be though...phwoar!)
Al, what do you mean, saying to Jonathan "you'll never know". He's coming over to Sheff in 16 days! Then he will know all the sordid details of my wildly extravagent star-studded lifestyle lol!
yeah right. washing up at the internet cafe. ah, but Johnny Dawes did pop in for a chinwag. he he he.
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