UKC

Went there this afternoon, saw a bollocks sign on the path in saying the councils lawyers have advised them to limit access and climbing is prohibited, however chose to ignore it. Got half way up seconding Ourobourus and a member of staff appeared "advising us to not climb" saying the area is effectively a construction site with the new fire escape going up, but we were well away from it and the associated machinery and materials. Apparently Edinburgh Council are close deciding access and may prohibit climbing by applying the disused quays act.

WTF disused quarry's act, climbing prohibited!!!!

1 Climbing has been accpted in ratho quarry for generations, why would they want to ban it now?
2 Doesn't the land reform act super seed the quarry's act (I have no idea but would hope so)?
3 The EICC is ment to be a facility that encourage, train and inspire climbers, how will they do this by banning climbing in the popular outdoor quarry?

Seams the world has gone mad, and the lawyers have been let lose. Is there any area representative for climbing (MCofS,SMC?) that can be contacted to fight for access?
Something needs to be done or we could lose a good Edinburgh climbing venue, plus I need to do shear fear and sedge warbler!

Andy

In reply to andymoin:

I asked the staff after being dissuaded by the fence and they telt me it was going to be open again as soon as they'd finished with the fire escape and tidying up the building site. He was talking about them putting barbebue areas out there.

Maybe they were just placating me as I was already on the warpath as I couldn't climb indoors either cause of a press launch but I suspect they'll open it again as they'd be afraid of the bad press they'd get if they didn't.

bump

In reply to andymoin:
From what I believe (well over heard actually) access will be reinstated after the construction of the fire escape.
I've not been round, but if it is a construction site (hard hat area, high vis, steel boots) then they have to exclude folk to comply with H&S and site insurance.

In reply to andymoin:


Really good attitude for a flagship climbing centre eh!! Well done Ratho.

In reply to andymoin:
Andy et al. Just copied the attached over from the similar thread on Scottish Climbs. Hope it helps to clarify.

"It is worth noting that EICA/ Edinburgh Leisure are trying to secure access to the quarry but it is owned by City of Edinburgh Council whose lawyers have indicated that there might be a problem. The subject is in negotiation and potentially quite delicate. The MC of S is probably a good place to make feekings known and even the Ramblers are a strong access lobby group."

Andy,

How's it going? Sounds like you're getting out a good bit. How was the rest of your winter?

Cheers,

Wilf.

In reply to andymoin:

Andy,

I'm very sorry to hear this. As far as I could see the Fire escape (what a ridiculous monstrosity) was finsihed when I was there and there seeme to be little is any construction work going on.

Please contact the MCofS access officer I guess you should be able to do that through the website. If not let me know and I'll see if I can help. I guess the access officer should be able to help the lawyers with their poblem.

Yes, absolutely ridiculous that a phuqn training facility for rock climbing is preventing rock climbing on it's own land!

By the way I've always found Ouroborous a bit of nightmare...

In reply to Removed User: Gota love that last move

In reply to Wilf2: Hey man reported to the MCofS and looking at other options aswell.

Aye been out a good bit, been in uni-work limbo for the past mounth, so loads of time to climb, sart work Monday tho.

Had a great winter loads of mileage, a few classic routes and enough IV to make me want to get some V in next winter. How about your self?

Andy

In reply to Ally Hill: Hope that's what will happen, a cleaned up quarry with some benches, BBQ's, plus a concerted effort by the community to clean the routes would turning it into an even more attractive venue.

I've sumited an access problem report to the MSofS, everyone else who's had problems should to do so aswell and hopefully they'll get someone on the case.

Mabey I'm over reacting but even the mention of a ban, has got me all riled up.

Cheers Andy

In reply to andymoin:


Willie Jeffrey and myself put that up about five hundred years ago!


Chris

In reply to andymoin:

Andy,

Had a pretty good winter in the end, about 15 or so routes done across the grades with the best being a great day out doing Indicator Right Hand with a couple of old mates in those glorious conditions in April. Also had a couple of good ski-ing trips in Austria & Norway.

I've not got much rock done yet this summer,partly as I'm currently doing two jobs, including some part time at Ratho (hence chipping in on this thread). As per the quote above it is delicate; as I understand it EICA/Ed Leisure are doing what they can and the MCofS is probably the best way of trying to influence the outcome.

I'll be doing the two jobs until the end of August after that I should get more time free. Drop me a text if you're short of a partner at all and fancy dragging me up some rock.

Cheers,

Wilf.

Got this email form the MCofS yesterday, quick reply thanks guys;

Quote/

Hi Andy
Thanks for the information about Ratho. I know something is in the offing there, but had been informed no final decision had been made. I have already lodged a note of concern and reasonings for keeping it open to the Access Officer Alan McGregor. Other MCofS representatives have been in discussions with the Ratho management. Not being a legal person, I am currently awaiting response from an "expert" on the Quarry Act, and am going to pursue the Ratho situation on receiving that advice.
In the meantime there is no harm, and possible benefit, in the force of numbers of comments about this to Ratho management, Graeme Gardiner [graemegardiner@edinburghleisure.co.uk] and Access Officer Alan McGregor (alan.mcgegor@edinburgh.gov.uk (I think this is right!?)) Hebe

Hebe Carus

/Quote


I'm going to email both the addresses provided, if anyone else wants to aswell that would be great hebe seams to think it will make a difference.

Cheers Andy

In reply to andymoin: bumb again

In reply to andymoin: I have sent the following email to these chaps; anybody fancy a mass demo/`climb-in'?
Graeme and Alan,
On Sunday I talked with a member of staff at EICA, Ratho re the likelihood of the quarry being open to the climbing public as it used to be in the good old days. The Council are considering invoking The Mines & Quarries Act in order to keep climbers off as they fear accidents, incidents and claims. Cannot the authorities see that whilst climbing has some risk attached (the greatest danger being loose material at the top of the crag) there are in fact very few serious accidents within the sport? Surely a disclaimer is the way forward. Any self respecting climber would be far too embarrassed to make a claim if she or he had an accident.
A few eyebrows were raised when this (over)ambitious project began. A fair few climbers would be irritated if access was withdrawn indefinitely and I should imagine there would be incidents of ‘unauthorized access’. This could turn into a ‘new Newbury’ where many of the great and the good in climbing supported the eco-warriors against the authorities and their roped access ‘mercenaries’. The financial cost was enormous and the publicity was negative. The facility at Ratho is second to none; I marvel at the space, light, build quality, the changing rooms, the hand driers, the approach paths and all the rest. It would, therefore be a pity not to go one step further and allow real climbing outside with the option of retreating indoors when it rains. Of course, there might be hazards but most people will recognise them as such just as most people manage to resist the temptation to swim in the nearby canal, or take short cuts across the motorway.

Regards

Ian P Jones
124/66 Lothian Road
Edinburgh
EH3 9DD
07849 429190

In reply to andymoin:
The BMC, which is generally fairly inert and ineffectual, is sitting on it's hands, fearful that the threatened invoking of The Quarries & Mines Act would give an unwelcome precedent. If enough people make their feelings known to the BMC and SMC then they might represent your views. I fancy a bit of peaceful protesting myself. Would they have us arrested?

In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:

If enough people make their feelings known to the BMC and SMC then they might represent your views.

Unless you are a member of the SMC, the MCofS may be a better organisation to represent your views. There again the MCofS are only really concerned about windmills and birds.

In reply to Norrie Muir: Got this reply to email

Ian



Thanks for your email



We at Edinburgh Leisure are currently awaiting a confirmed response from our solicitors regarding this issue as we support the need to climb out in the quarry. The City of Edinburgh Council solicitors have advised fencing off the bottom of the quarry, with a way of controlling access, however we wish to review if this is necessary. We are in an awkward position of being tenants to the landowners (CEC) and need to get their permission before we proceed.



We will be sending the Council a letter of our intent shortly and I am hopeful that this can be resolved within the next month or so.



This issue is currently being communicated through the Climbing Advisory Group, including the Mountaineering Council of Scotland but I will email you when further news is available.



I am glad that you are enjoying EICA (including the hand dryers!) and once again, thank you for your email.



Kind regards



Graeme Gardiner



Manager,

Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho

In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:

Thanks for that.

I've been meaning to drop them an email as well. The more folk that do, the better. Lets see what happens in a month's time.

Yes, the handriers are certainly without equal.

In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:

The solicitors will probably be looking at this in the same way as Salisbury Crags, where the worry is not that climbers may hurt themselves and claim damages from the landowner/manager, but that climbers may injure passers by. I guess that is why a fenced off area is being looked at, although you'd think that an unlocked gate and warning sign would be sufficient if they had to do something like that.

In reply to johnsdowens:

I thought Salisbury was a double hit to do with Royal land plus being an SSSI?

Interesting to note the name of the manager of the EICA.
I wonder if Bill Oddie ands Tim Brooke-Taylor also enjoy our glorious sport