UKC

The BMC is giving away £10,000 worth of bolts and lower offs to local Bolt Funds! Where are they going to then?


Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Bloody good news, bring on the replacements in the slate quarries and North Wales limestone!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Good to see that they are not just sitting on a shelf in the BMC office, it's about time crags are equiped with stainless steel bolts (well old manky bolts replaced and lower-offs repleced)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

How about stannage, it is pretty lacking on the bolt front?

In reply to Billy the fish:

Congratulations Mr the Fish! As the 1,000,000th poster to bring up the 'bolt Stanage' troll, you win a year's subscription to Trail magazine.

That'll teach ya :-P

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


Cool.

I wonder if they have a stake and peg fund?

In reply to Fiend:

They certainly have stakes Fiend. I saw Dan "BMC Tech" Middleton fondling some.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Apparently 122 bolts are heading Dorset way - anyone know exactly where they're intended for? Steve T?

In reply to Nic: I hope one of the cumbrian lower offs is destined to repair the vandalism at seargent crag slabs.

In reply to Anonymous: the vandalism of the bolts going in, or being taken out?

nice try!

In reply to martin k:

SE Wales bolts: Good news that the newly established BMC area is getting a look in! Who get's the decission on where they'll be put? It would be a shame if a new area was bolted and kept 'under wraps' by the bolter.

In reply to stuwelly85:

it's a replacement fund, i.e. like for like, the bids would have identified bad bolts in existing routes. there should be no new area bolted by this fund.

In reply to stuwelly85:

Can't be certain but southern Wye Valley maybe? Ban-y-gor has a lot of new bolts.

In reply to stuwelly85: i think, but don't quote me on it, that roy thomas has applied. could be him. as someone has alrady said, these bolts are for like for like replacement, not new routes.

In reply to Nic:

My garage!

Interesting to find out how the Dorset Bolt Fund request has been responded to in such a public manner? This is the first that I've heard about how many bolts we get...

In reply to Nic:

In reality, depending on the proportion of resin/through-bolts we receive, mostly The Promenade (German New Order/Seppuku areas) and Blackers Hole (Infinite Gravity etc)

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: anyone know where the cheshire and merseyside bolts are destined for?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Strange how this has coincided with the peak re bolting initiative ! Don't recall any help or support for the boys in Yorkshire . Do we get a refund ?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Stick em all over the mountains for use as abseil stations...

Only kidding

In reply to steve taylor:

I'm contacting all the "winners" individually Steve, but felt it was important to get the news out - the whole idea behind the project is to generate publicity for bolt funds.

For Mr. Cynical who posted r.e lack of support in the past, I agree that in the past the BMC hasn't done enough to assist bolt funds. Lets focus on the present and future though, eh? Yorkshire got pretty much 100% what they bid for, I reckon Dave & Paul will be pretty chuffed with what they're getting. Keep up the good work, guys.

In reply to martin k:

Ta for that, did realise a little while after I posted it was new for old. How does it get decided what area get's this new kit?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

# North Wales Bolt Fund: 1,395 bolts 18 lower offs
# Yorkshire Bolt Fund: 437 bolts 56 lower offs
# Gary Gibson, Peak: 167 bolts 16 lower offs
# Cheshire & Merseyside Bolt Fund: 50 bolts 5 lower offs *
# Peak Bolt Fund: 240 bolts 20 lower offs
# Cumbria Bolt Fund: 65 bolts 2 lower offs
# Dorset Bolt Fund: 126 bolts 22 lower offs
# SE Wales Bolt Fund: 20 bolts 11 lower offs*

So what's the diffrence between the "Gary Gibson, peak" and the "Peak Bolt fund"?

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: i think that the PBF is concentrating on the harder (7a+) routes on places like the cornice, whilst gary's bolts are going to lower grade venues like blackwell, horseshoe and the like. i think.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Thats realy great because in Yorkshire we had to work like FK to create a bolt fund to pay for ours

In reply to raspers:

Don't all bolt funds have to work hard to get funds for bolts?

Mick

In reply to raspers:

.. and we've (Yorkshire) got a decent amount out of this too, almost every bolt/belay we asked for. To be left out because we'd done stuff in the past would have been bad. To be included on equal terms is fine.

In reply to martin k:



Thats what I'm lead to beleive also.

Si

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: Well, one is Gary Gibson, and er, one is the Peak Bolt Fund. The requests for bolts came in from a number of different active groups. These two just happen to operate in the same area. Lets face it, Gary has been active almost everywhere.

In reply to Fiend:



Wanna increase your subs to pay for em? Only kidding. Nice idea, a bit tricky though. Opens up a fairly big old can of worms, don't you think? A properly placed glue-in bolt may last for 25 years and you should be able re-use the original hole. Can you say the same for a peg? Didn't think so. The whole pegs issue, especially on sea cliffs, probably needs serious discussion before anything happens on that score.

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:
Are the routes in Whales that long 1395 bolts and 18 lower offs

In reply to raspers: The full full traverse of Cloggy. Left to right, then up a bit, then back across to the left

In reply to raspers:

Who rattled your cage???

The Ent

In reply to raspers:

Blue Whales are quite long!

Dave

In reply to Enty:
Rigwelter