UKC

Went to Manchester climbing wall last week and felt the grading of the climbs was not consistent. The crux of the climbs we did were more often than not at the top of the climb and higher than the grade of the climb. This spoilt what would have a great day as the staff were very friendly and helpful. I spent a fair amount of money at the shop and got 20% off!!

I normally go to Kendal climbing wall where the grading is consistent, and although there are less routes than at Manchester the overall experience is a lot more satisfying.

In reply to icnoble:

just a bit stiff, pretty accurate generally though i think.

In reply to icnoble: Some are easier some harder. Tried a 6a there last week which I couldn't get near....but....who is really that bothered?

In reply to icnoble: At MCC the grading system for the routes is a French sport grade and therefore differs in the respect that while the English grading system grades the hardest move on a route, the french grade is a grade for a route as a whole. The crux move of most French graded routes will usually be slightly harder than the grade of the climb. I will agree however, that the grading at MCC can sometimes be a tad inconsistent however I think that is down to who has set the route and the strengths and weaknesses of different climbers. One mans easy rockover is another mans desperate mantle.

In reply to Richard Bradley:
There's the rub. Nobody with any sense really. A vague idea of how hard a route is going to be is good, I suppose, but other than that who cares, its artificial innit.

In reply to icnoble:
I've been spanked by some of the grades there. I've also been spanked by some grades on real rock. Thats the way it goes.

I dont think that MCC are inconsistent, just that their various route setters have diferent strengths.

In reply to ThePimpOfCrimp:
>... the grading at MCC can sometimes be a tad inconsistent however I think that is down to who has set the route and the strengths and weaknesses of different climbers...

There haven't been many routes there that i've thought have been completely wrongly graded but every so often there's one thats a total sandbag, for example the purple 6a+ at the right hand side of the slab beside the bridging corner opposite the main wall. I can do it but its absolutely desperate and there's several harder routes that seem much easier. But then anyone a couple of inches taller would be able to reach the holds comfortably and it would be spot on - did Andy set it by any chance?!

In reply to SecretSquirrel:
>for example the purple 6a+ at the right hand side of the slab beside the bridging corner opposite the main wall
Is that the one with the red 6c+ on it as well? I lead the 6c+ then "blasted" up that 6a+ as last route of the night and got a shock. I was expcting a nice route, tricky but not too hard to warm down on. Instead I was sat on the rope, trying to work out the sequence for several attempts. Once you work it out though, it is as graded. But until you do its 'orrible.

In reply to icnoble: i feel the grades are quite consistent, although the grey 6b on the end of the left wall is a killer!!
tried it about 20 times and cant get near it!

In reply to dread-i:
It does seem to catch people out, even when they are taller than me ;0)
I've done it several times and it never gets any easier, despite getting the sequence fairly quickly. Its just really hard moves if you can't reach the holds - 2 points of contact in some balancy high rockover move to get onto the next and its sustained at that level the entire way up it. About 2 more inches on the reach and it'd be fine, for me it feels harder than several of the 6c routes.

In reply to kevin k:
>...although the grey 6b on the end of the left wall is a killer!!

I keep trying that one every so often - I get up to about half height then there's a move I get stuck on. I got one move further once, but haven't been able to repeat it and I haven't been able to work out if there's a different sequence thats easier than what i'm trying. I'll probably have another crack at it this week.

In reply to SecretSquirrel: i cant get past the pancakes on that. nightmare

In reply to kevin k: saw you the other week trying it with another Guy. looks very hard.

In reply to icnoble: I think overall the all the grades are correct on the longer routes (i.e. main wall, triple over hang and the leaning wall on the left.), although the purple 6c on the triple over hang is a bit harsh.
The lower graded leads and top ropes seem to be inconsistent. For example, the 3xgrade 4 routes on the short vertical lead wall near the triple over hang are pretty harsh for their grade.

It's shame they don't do what Alien Rock does with their new routes, i.e. they have a white board with the list of new routes in one column, and across the top of the board they have the range of grades (e.g. 3 - 8) when people have climbed the new route you put a tick in the box you think the grade is, after a week has past the grade with the most ticks = the grade of the climb... Just an idea?

In reply to icnoble: I think the problem is with the punter routes (the only ones I can do). It looks like they've just thrown a set of holds at the wall with no thought and graded them without climbing them. I was discussing this the other night with someone who is a much better climber than me and he said that he'd done 6b's on the lead wall that were easier than some of the 4's. Probably an exageration but there are some real sandbags.