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tide tables + top ten ticks for Cornwall

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priesty 23 Sep 2002
Can anyone tell me the best source for up to date tide tables for this weekend in Cornwall?

I've got four days there this weekend, does anyone have any hidden gems that aren't in the "classic/hard/ best climbs in" guidebooks?

I have a blank canvass to paint so give me some of your personal faves (up to E1)....

flapper 23 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty: could try the climbers club site for tide tables, http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/index.htm

two routes not on the beaten path that are worth a look are:
Saxon HVS 4c, 4c at the Kenidjack Cliffs and
Chlorophyll Cluster E1 5b at St Loy (whilst you're there, you might also try Monochrome Men E1 5b and Scarlet Woman E1 5c, I'm told they're good too).

enjoy

f
OP johncoxmysteriously 23 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty:

I don't know about the best site, but the CC website has tide tables.

Seahorse, Sennen (sandbag alert; you won't like this if you don't like wide cracks).
Helluva Slab.
Anzac Day.
Dungeon.
That VS at Aire Point, (not the best route in the whole world, but a lovely place).
That HVS at Sennen down near Superjam with the picture in the guide. Terrace Cracks, maybe?
OP Anonymous 23 Sep 2002
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Yeah, St Loy - good call. The VS is good, too, (Cress Cendo is it?). Jamming alert, though (and CCluster also).
 Chris Fryer 23 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty: Where will you be based? Theres a lot there - all the way from bude to plymouth.
Wan 23 Sep 2002
In reply to flapper:
Can't speak for Scarlet Woman, but Monochrome Man is well worth the trip.
Saxon is a very good call, I get the impression not many people climb it but it's the best climb of that grade that I have done in those parts.
I was about to recommend another one but the name has escaped me. It could be The Royal Forester at Zennor? Cliff. Someone help me out. Anyway it's a great route, don't be put off if it looks green - it's always like that and it doesn't matter.
Wan 23 Sep 2002
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> That HVS at Sennen down near Superjam with the picture in the guide. Terrace Cracks, maybe?

Could you be thinking of Dolphin Cracks (5a, 4c)?
OP Priesty 23 Sep 2002
In reply to Chris Fryer:
I'll be at the CC hut at Bosigran.....


So loads of potential there but I quite fancy Sennen for a trip as well.

The CC web site doesn't show any tide tables before October ....(Bollocks) so I'm hoping that any sailing ypes out there might know of better sources.
Wan 23 Sep 2002
In reply to Priesty:
If you're only thinking of Sennen and Bosi, the tides don't matter for most of the climbs, so I wouldn't worry about the tide tables too much.
OP johncoxmysteriously 23 Sep 2002
In reply to Wan:

No, the other one. Errrr, sod it [fetches guide] Terrace Cracks. The photo is of Slanting Crack next door, actually. Dolphin Crack is also excellent, though [further thrutch alert on p.1]

As well as Royal Forrester, how about Zennorphobia or Climb to the Sun? Not done either but I'd like to. [I am in a warning mood tonight; this is a fair-weather crag]
OP Priesty 23 Sep 2002
In reply to Wan:
What about Chair ladder?

 Chris Fryer 23 Sep 2002
In reply to Priesty: That IS tidal, but definitely recommended.

Im pretty sure Kenidjack is non tidal too. Saxon is soo good.

Cant recommend any obscure classics though.
Wan 23 Sep 2002
In reply to Priesty:
You mean wrt tide tables? I'm not sure if the question was rhetorical so I'll answer anyway and I apologise if this is patronising:

Yes you need to worry about tides at Chair Ladder (and at Kenidjack).
The one I suggested at Zennor is well clear of the sea, so that should be fine. St Loy, most of Bosi and most of Sennen are non-tidal so you won't have any worries except in really foul weather.
OP Priesty 23 Sep 2002
In reply to Wan:
Cheers Wan,
Thats exactly the sort of info I was after.


P.
 Andy2 24 Sep 2002
In reply to Wan: You don't need to worry about tides at Kenidjack Main Cliff. It may be affected by spray if the seas are rough, but I don't believe the sea will be rough this weekend.

There is a surprising amount of non-tidal climbing at Chair Ladder, including one of the routes recommended earlier, Sea Horse, which is not at Sennen.You can use the East Chimney descent to access South Face Direct, Pendulum Chimney, etc.

Conditions are extremely favourable at the moment - most cliffs are very dry. If you are a fairly regular visitor to Cornwall, then I would suggest you try something which would normally be wet - my tips would be
Light in August (Whirl Pool Buttress) - scramble down the ridge, run across the sand, climb the route. Watch out for the grass cornice on pitch 2.
My Mule Don't Like You Laffin (Carn Vellan) - some brittle rock but a great outing. Could be combined with an ascent of The Dungeon.

This Saturday, 28th September, low water is about 3:20 pm at Cape Cornwall.

Hope this helps
 Guy 24 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty: For tide tables and to see if the waves are going to be breaking over the bottom of the route even if it is low tide check http://magicseaweed.com
OP Saul Taylor 24 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty:
what about bouldering guides for the Sennen/Lands End area.

I go there a lot and have done stuff in the B4/5 range. There are also some other obvious lines at B6/7, but they all seem unclimbed, covered in bird shit and grass as they were.

any ideas?
thanks
 Al Evans 24 Sep 2002
In reply to flapper: The E1 right of Saxon is good too, cant remember its name though. And do Bow Wall, its a mass better than Suicide Wall. Oh and dont forget Astral Stroll at E1 and Right Angle at VS
 Al Evans 24 Sep 2002
In reply to Al Evans: PS, forgot The Cull on The Lizard, absolutely brilliant and worth the trip, its about E3 5a, bomber pro but sooooo strenuous. If you a strong boy its a soft touch!
 Stefan Kruger 24 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty:

Starters for 10, off the top of my head, grades err, vdiff - E1?

Axis
Right Angle
Astral Stroll
Bow Wall
Demo Route
Diocese
Bishop's Rib
Terrier's Tooth
Little Brown Jug
Bosigran Ridge
flapper 24 Sep 2002
In reply to Al Evans: The Shield at E1 5b and right again is Thane also at E1 5b both very good climbs
 mike steele 24 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty: Let me know where you're headed....
My best on site lead at the top of E1 low E2 is Eroica on pentire point (north coast)and if the weather is crap there is good surf at Polzeath around the headland
If your headed further southwest and get to bosigran for an easy amazing 11 pitch or thereabouts climb check out Bosigran Ridge(Commando ridge)and take your lunch for 1/2 way. comes in about vdiff I think.
Cya
Mike steele
 Chris Fryer 24 Sep 2002
In reply to Al Evans: Rock Dancer('s Daughter) Kenidjack is indeed a fine cliff, just wish there was more of it!

Beware of cars getting broken into though. The gound was covered in kerb diamonds when we went there.
 Chris H 24 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty:
Zennor- Rosebud in June, Royal Forester.
Tregiffian - nice slabs
Porthguarnon - 3 terraces of esoteria
Aire Point - Biggles, Aireline
Trewellard / Pendeen - some nice climbs

If you like jamming try "Blondie Jams With Sepaltura" under Logan Rock
mbh 24 Sep 2002
In reply to Chris Fryer:

The Dungeon's been on my wish list for along time.

Cress Cendo at St. Loy is a lovely route in a lovely place and a soft touch at VS 4c 5a.

Zeke's Route and Friends at Pordenack. I can't do the latter - I had a horror just seconding the first pitch, not even all of that come to think of it, but the gear is bomber, the line is striking and the place exquisite.

Martell Slab VS 4c,4b at Tater Du, for some fine greenstone, with Tregiffian just a little further on, for some fine granite VSs like Acid Rain or Gravity Slab.

helluva Slab at Hella Point, by the porthgwarra car park - just enjoy being there.

John - do you mean Aireline or Biggles Flies Undone at Aire Point?
Mark Kemball 24 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty: Tides wrong next weekend, high middle of the day.
Priesty 25 Sep 2002
In reply to Mark Kemball:

More tide table type questions....

How is it that when I phoned the coast guard info line for Falmouth (good number this one!...01326 317575)they gave me tide times almost half an hour out from the UKHO (Admiralty navy bods) web site tide predictor?

quote: Falmouth 27th Sept. high tide 0802 (coast guard) or 0745 ( admiralty tide predictor)....

Any sailors out there can explain this?

 Chris Fryer 25 Sep 2002
In reply to Priesty: British Summer Time? Also can be for different places.
 sutty 25 Sep 2002
In reply to Priesty:
The answer is in the table you use, a PREDICTOR. The coastguard can be more accurate at short range forecasting ,same as the weather as that has a bearing on the exact time of high tide.
 Gus 25 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty:
Chlorophyll Cluster (E1) at St.Loy is SUPERRRB! The cliff is non tidal too so it doesn't matter what the tides are like. The walk in is a bit long but very scenic!
TimG 25 Sep 2002
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> Yeah, St Loy - good call. The VS is good, too, (Cress Cendo is it?). Jamming alert, though (and CCluster also).

Where's the best place to park for St Loy? Guide book
seems to suggest parking is a bit tricky.
 Guy Maccdox 25 Sep 2002
In reply to priesty:

I used to use the YBW tide tables but now find the good old beeb to be the best: http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/marine/tides/
They have details of loads of locations and there are graphs as well as high and low times. The graphs can be really helpful when gauging your 'window of opportunity'
Woker 25 Sep 2002
In reply to Stefan Kruger:
> (In reply to priesty)
>
> Starters for 10, off the top of my head, grades err, vdiff - E1?
>
> Axis
> Right Angle
> Astral Stroll
> Bow Wall
> Demo Route
> Diocese
> Bishop's Rib
> Terrier's Tooth
> Little Brown Jug
> Bosigran Ridge

good choice of roots, unless youre after doing along VDiff climb Bosi/commando ridge is not advisable. I loved it but then I like easy routes it is long, It may be fun leading it on minimal pro/solo mind.

Demo Route HS 4b is high in the grade and highly adviseable, terriors tooth HS 4B is good also.
OP johncoxmysteriously 25 Sep 2002
In reply to TimG:

I think the guidebook just says that parking is hard if you're going to try and access it across the fields instead the obvious and extremely pleasant appraoch along the coastpath, doesn't it?

Oh no, hang on, you're right. We came from the west and it was a bit tricky - had to park on the road some way away as I recall.

Sorry, can't really help. PIBE.
mbh 25 Sep 2002
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

It's not that tricky , if you've got a map. Park on the road as John said, about 100yds or so west of the turn off to the campsite/farm that you have to walk by to get to prthguarnon cove and the coast path. We usually park at the end of a muddy turn off (memory gone here), and there isn't much room. The campsite farmer really doesn't like you parking on his huge and by now largely empty campsite field.

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