/ NEWS: North Wales Limestone Bolt Wear - A Solution

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Michael Ryan - on 20 Jul 2007
Many of the Eco bolts used as lower-offs at the top of routes on Lower and Upper Pen Trwyn, Llandudno, North Wales are starting to show signs of wear due to the practice of lowering off and top roping with ropes threaded directly through the bolt eye.

The North Wales Bolt Fund and the BMC have a solution and have also been training climbers to replace and test bolts.

Chris Parkin reports at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
whispering nic - on 21 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I've met German climbers who abseil rather than lower off thus reducing the wear on the bolts....
Eric9Points - on 21 Jul 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Why not just put a screw gate on the bolts that are starting to show signs of wear then replace the screwgate when it wears out? You could use a threadlocking adhesive to keep the gate locked thus eliminating the possiblility of theft.

Or a mallion for that matter...
danm - on 21 Jul 2007
In reply to Eric9Points:

>
> Why not just put a screw gate on the bolts that are starting to show signs of wear then replace the screwgate when it wears out?
> Or a mallion for that matter...

Well volunteered Eric.

The rings will last a lot longer than a straight maillon or screwgate. Long term it will work out cheaper. People tend to try and nick screwgates and maillons even if threadlocked, but with the rings at least the lower off looks like a proper unit rather than abandoned gear, so hopefully they'll think twice. Also, the rings sit more perpendicular to the rock, less wear on your rope. Give Chris Parkin a shout for when you're ready to help out with the installation.

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