/ NEW ARTICLE: 'It is beautiful here in North Wales, itís jus
Writes Jack Geldard responding to the statement that, "It is beautiful here in North Wales, itís just a shame itís so busy."
And he provides some alternatives to the, "mountain equivalent of the M25 in rush hour"
Read his picks, fully illustrated, for off-beat Ogwen Vdiffs at..http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=497
"The polished Twin Cracks of the second pitch could be graded anything from V-diff to E5!"
Hope (VD) on Idwal slabs was my second ever lead and it certainly didnt feel like E5! (perhaps thats because I had a beautiful instructor form PyB to give me encouragement).
I nearly fell off the top of that. Not due to normal climbing fun, more due to me dicking around on wet grass and not being tied on.
If that is what an E5 feels like then i'm doing better than i think :)
Twin Cracks on Hope would have probably got the technical grade of 1B in the old Pyatt SE Sandstone guide.
Agreed...but the start of Charity is another story. Also, The Red Slab is not for ingenious VD leaders although it may well be a route for HS leaders ingeniously pretnding to be VD leaders. The other sad thing is all of the routes well known classics. There are loads of hidden VD delights in the Ogwen guide.
I guess I expected too much from this and to be fair I'm not the target audience.
Offwidth ona new computer
I was surprised at the choice of routes given the title - with the exception of the Red Slab they are all mainstream classics that see ascents and traffic jams every sunny weekend.
A nice article with a good purpose.
Elsewhere on the site
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
Every so often you meet someone in climbing that makes you take a step back. Someone with a fire in their eye, passion in... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more