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Up 24hours early cos of holiday commitments - sorry.
41 diary entries last week.
Repeat contributors last week:
-IainRUK
-skydivingbluecat
-Tony Little
-hugedyno
-Jon Barton
-Jonas Wiklund
-PaulB
-Sean Kenny
-Andy Farnell
-tobyfk
-Serpico
-Tony Fryer
-Fiend
-Burnsie
-ebygomm
-Stig
-tbertenshaw
-jfw
-rginns
-Jenn
-Duncan Disorderly
-mbh at work
-smithy
-endless winter
-WEBBO
-annah
-Steve Ramsden
-Wibble Wibble
-Adam Greenwood
-Butterfly with a Bomb
-Static
-Lurking Dave
-Matt Owen
-Ian Jackson
-galpinos
-MattG
New starters:
-Tyler
-Reese
-Greg
-Richard Hession
Abroad/hols:
-TimS
-ChrisF
Hall of shame: No one !!!
41 diary entries last week.
Repeat contributors last week:
-IainRUK
-skydivingbluecat
-Tony Little
-hugedyno
-Jon Barton
-Jonas Wiklund
-PaulB
-Sean Kenny
-Andy Farnell
-tobyfk
-Serpico
-Tony Fryer
-Fiend
-Burnsie
-ebygomm
-Stig
-tbertenshaw
-jfw
-rginns
-Jenn
-Duncan Disorderly
-mbh at work
-smithy
-endless winter
-WEBBO
-annah
-Steve Ramsden
-Wibble Wibble
-Adam Greenwood
-Butterfly with a Bomb
-Static
-Lurking Dave
-Matt Owen
-Ian Jackson
-galpinos
-MattG
New starters:
-Tyler
-Reese
-Greg
-Richard Hession
Abroad/hols:
-TimS
-ChrisF
Hall of shame: No one !!!
In reply to Simon Lee:
Ok, here we go, I'm in the resting phase of the training cycle following goal achievement so I have dossed around all week and done no exercise at all.
Resting will carry on until the end of september when a new training cycle will commence with the goal of leading IV this winter and the Cassin route on the Badile next summer.
Until the end of Sept I'll not be posting on this thread as I am resting (and cragging a little).
Ok, here we go, I'm in the resting phase of the training cycle following goal achievement so I have dossed around all week and done no exercise at all.
Resting will carry on until the end of september when a new training cycle will commence with the goal of leading IV this winter and the Cassin route on the Badile next summer.
Until the end of Sept I'll not be posting on this thread as I am resting (and cragging a little).
In reply to Simon Lee:
Aim. Redpoint Moonflower. (E5) Keep sane while working in Shop.
S. Cragging
M. Lakes Craging, Black crag
T. Lakes Cragging, Highcliffe in the wet.
W. 5km Run, Highcliffe, Working route
T. 30 Mile Cycle Scugdale.
F. Brimham cragging.
S. Highcliffe, Working route, 5km Run.
+Finger Board everyday iam home.
Aim. Redpoint Moonflower. (E5) Keep sane while working in Shop.
S. Cragging
M. Lakes Craging, Black crag
T. Lakes Cragging, Highcliffe in the wet.
W. 5km Run, Highcliffe, Working route
T. 30 Mile Cycle Scugdale.
F. Brimham cragging.
S. Highcliffe, Working route, 5km Run.
+Finger Board everyday iam home.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Siryessir!
Goal:
Get out as much as weather allows and get on with specific trad route aims. When weather doesn't allow, do appropriate stamina training including sport climbing, indoor route climbing, and some form of fitness exercise.
Last week's aims:
Climb hard outdoors when the weather is good. Train indoors routes when the weather is bad. Keep up with antagonistic exercises to avoid shoulder tweaks. Do some form of fitness but possibly not as much as last week. Get a good plan for weekend climbing.
M - Sport / trad at Malham. Didn't do a lot but pushed pretty hard on sport. Boosted confidence.
T - Bouldering down The Edge. Intended to focus on steady flashing and hanging on a long time, but sweaty conditions and weakness turned it into a pretty average session.
W - Rest.
T - Rest / travelling.
F - Trad at Avon Gorge. Lead a couple of short routes but pushed myself reasonably hard, fun.
S - Rain-watching and failing to appease girlfriend.
(S - Hopefully some indoor route training, again focus on hanging on.)
A reasonable week, two good outdoor sessions both of which involved a certain amount of pushing myself. Could have done with a bit more fitness training. Hopefully something useful on Sunday.
This week's aims:
Get away somewhere if weather's good. Fitness & stamina training otherwise.
Siryessir!
Goal:
Get out as much as weather allows and get on with specific trad route aims. When weather doesn't allow, do appropriate stamina training including sport climbing, indoor route climbing, and some form of fitness exercise.
Last week's aims:
Climb hard outdoors when the weather is good. Train indoors routes when the weather is bad. Keep up with antagonistic exercises to avoid shoulder tweaks. Do some form of fitness but possibly not as much as last week. Get a good plan for weekend climbing.
M - Sport / trad at Malham. Didn't do a lot but pushed pretty hard on sport. Boosted confidence.
T - Bouldering down The Edge. Intended to focus on steady flashing and hanging on a long time, but sweaty conditions and weakness turned it into a pretty average session.
W - Rest.
T - Rest / travelling.
F - Trad at Avon Gorge. Lead a couple of short routes but pushed myself reasonably hard, fun.
S - Rain-watching and failing to appease girlfriend.
(S - Hopefully some indoor route training, again focus on hanging on.)
A reasonable week, two good outdoor sessions both of which involved a certain amount of pushing myself. Could have done with a bit more fitness training. Hopefully something useful on Sunday.
This week's aims:
Get away somewhere if weather's good. Fitness & stamina training otherwise.
In reply to Simon Lee: New starter this week.
Background - just back from month away working, not lead any trad for 12 months, got back into bouldering a little 2 months ago.
Goals: Long term - redpoint 7a, lead Combat at Chudleigh
Short term (this month before I go back to work) - get my trad leading head back (lead E1/2), redpoint 6c+
This week:
Thur - get home half past midnight (thank you flybe - should have been 6 hours earlier), climbing chudleigh - wobbled up Inkermann groove direct, dogged seconding Black death
Fri - climbing chudleigh - redpoint machete wall (mate placed gear), second 2 E4s
Today - kitesurfing session, hopefully the same tomorrow.
Planned next week - bouldering, hopefully sports session at Torbryan and maybe some trad.
Background - just back from month away working, not lead any trad for 12 months, got back into bouldering a little 2 months ago.
Goals: Long term - redpoint 7a, lead Combat at Chudleigh
Short term (this month before I go back to work) - get my trad leading head back (lead E1/2), redpoint 6c+
This week:
Thur - get home half past midnight (thank you flybe - should have been 6 hours earlier), climbing chudleigh - wobbled up Inkermann groove direct, dogged seconding Black death
Fri - climbing chudleigh - redpoint machete wall (mate placed gear), second 2 E4s
Today - kitesurfing session, hopefully the same tomorrow.
Planned next week - bouldering, hopefully sports session at Torbryan and maybe some trad.
In reply to Simon Lee: (now) Long term goal - F8a+.
Last week - Saturday injured rotator cuff on right should due to (as Ben F so elegantly put it on UKB) 'child related japery'
Tuesday - bouldering session at Awesome (to see if the afforemention injury was as bad as I first though). Shoulder felt weak and sore, even more so on Wed morning
Rest of week - nothing.
As a) the weather has crapped out and b) I'm off on a family holiday in a weeks time, I get the feeling my season is pretty much finished for the year.
Andy F
Last week - Saturday injured rotator cuff on right should due to (as Ben F so elegantly put it on UKB) 'child related japery'
Tuesday - bouldering session at Awesome (to see if the afforemention injury was as bad as I first though). Shoulder felt weak and sore, even more so on Wed morning
Rest of week - nothing.
As a) the weather has crapped out and b) I'm off on a family holiday in a weeks time, I get the feeling my season is pretty much finished for the year.
Andy F
In reply to Simon Lee:
Previous short-term goal: match aerobic performance of average Canadian eight year-old AND granite bouldering strength of average Canadian yuppie female
M. ten pitches of easy trad and sport to 5.10 with visiting friend
T. two hours MTB with son and average Canadian eight year-old; pleased to see AC8YO pushing his bike on same steep sections as me so that short-term goal achieved. (Later, AC8YO top-roped a 5.8 as his first rock climb ...)
W.
T. two hours MTB with son; then disappointing final bouldering session of holiday. Feel that despite reasonable strength gains in the last year or so across some narrow criteria (chiefly simple pulling down on small positive holds) I will need more dynamic arm strength (should campus more often?), shoulder strength across a wider range of movement, more core strength and certainly more flexibility for next summer.
F. <drive/ fly>
S. <fly and fly again>
S.
Medium-term goal from next week: redpoint two unclimbed sport projects and an unrepeated route 'The Blade' back here in camel-land
Previous short-term goal: match aerobic performance of average Canadian eight year-old AND granite bouldering strength of average Canadian yuppie female
M. ten pitches of easy trad and sport to 5.10 with visiting friend
T. two hours MTB with son and average Canadian eight year-old; pleased to see AC8YO pushing his bike on same steep sections as me so that short-term goal achieved. (Later, AC8YO top-roped a 5.8 as his first rock climb ...)
W.
T. two hours MTB with son; then disappointing final bouldering session of holiday. Feel that despite reasonable strength gains in the last year or so across some narrow criteria (chiefly simple pulling down on small positive holds) I will need more dynamic arm strength (should campus more often?), shoulder strength across a wider range of movement, more core strength and certainly more flexibility for next summer.
F. <drive/ fly>
S. <fly and fly again>
S.
Medium-term goal from next week: redpoint two unclimbed sport projects and an unrepeated route 'The Blade' back here in camel-land
In reply to Simon Lee:
goals
Was: getting in shape for trip to Sweden and US, doing a solid planche
Is: making the ankle heal as fast as possible while losing as little fitness as possible, doing a solid planche
mon: rest
tue: bouldering indoors
wed: rest
thu: bouldering in Mizugaki, Yamanashi prefecture. Bad conditions. Twisted ankle after falling badly from the first warm-up problem.
Fri: awful pain. Foot quite swollen. (Plan was for crack climbing, no go of course)
sat: pain, foot more swollen. Rest
Sun: Less pain, swelling is no longer increasing. Rest.
Next weeks goal:
Doing a lot of weights, one or two sessions of footless bouldering.
goals
Was: getting in shape for trip to Sweden and US, doing a solid planche
Is: making the ankle heal as fast as possible while losing as little fitness as possible, doing a solid planche
mon: rest
tue: bouldering indoors
wed: rest
thu: bouldering in Mizugaki, Yamanashi prefecture. Bad conditions. Twisted ankle after falling badly from the first warm-up problem.
Fri: awful pain. Foot quite swollen. (Plan was for crack climbing, no go of course)
sat: pain, foot more swollen. Rest
Sun: Less pain, swelling is no longer increasing. Rest.
Next weeks goal:
Doing a lot of weights, one or two sessions of footless bouldering.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Short: climb optimally on mountain routes in a warm and sunny 2nd half of September. Onsight E3 on mountain rock or limestone. Given more likely climate, redpoint more routes in the Peak.
Medium: Lay foundation for rewarding grit season in Oct-Nov. Onsight grit E3.
This week: ok but less than hoped for mainly due to weather/other constraints.
M: rest
T: full finger board session. Couldn't complete all hangs, felt less strong than previously.
W: Froggatt soloing and two crack pitches.
T: Ramshaw routes and worked The Undertaker in heinous style, excellent bouldery technique practice
F: rest
S: good Leeds wall sess. Focused on technique, and stress-testing. Laps at end
S: rest
Week ahead: plan to cram in as much climbing, with emphasis on endurance (poss circuits)as possible as we're going on non-climbing holiday next week. Timing has worked well: should come back as strong as possible in Sept.
Short: climb optimally on mountain routes in a warm and sunny 2nd half of September. Onsight E3 on mountain rock or limestone. Given more likely climate, redpoint more routes in the Peak.
Medium: Lay foundation for rewarding grit season in Oct-Nov. Onsight grit E3.
This week: ok but less than hoped for mainly due to weather/other constraints.
M: rest
T: full finger board session. Couldn't complete all hangs, felt less strong than previously.
W: Froggatt soloing and two crack pitches.
T: Ramshaw routes and worked The Undertaker in heinous style, excellent bouldery technique practice
F: rest
S: good Leeds wall sess. Focused on technique, and stress-testing. Laps at end
S: rest
Week ahead: plan to cram in as much climbing, with emphasis on endurance (poss circuits)as possible as we're going on non-climbing holiday next week. Timing has worked well: should come back as strong as possible in Sept.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Goal: Proper One-Armer from hanging.
M - Bachars/Lock-offs; 9m bike ride.
T - Triceps/Delts: Muscle-ups, 5 sets to failure (2 min rests); 9 mile bike ride.
W - Campus - Power Endurance (New PBs); 17m bike ride.
T - 200 push-ups; 200 pull-ups; 9 mile bike ride.
F - Bouldering (30 problems).
S - Rest Day.
S - Lock-offs/offset one-armers (crap session, feeling weak).
Fcukin' weight's gone up 2lbs! Pretty sure I'm consuming far too much protein. I don't have the mass of a bodybuilder, but I'm eating like one, so I'm going to reduce my calorific intake by 25 - 30%. Also replace some of the MTB cardio with fartlek 'Hill Sessions' to shock the metabolism. I'm introducing a 'total rest day' as well, 'cause I might be a bit 'overtrained'.
HD.
PS. Might just do 5 x 30 sec 2 arm deadhangs @ 80% max on the 'total rest day', so as not to interfere with bicep/lat hypertrophy. Sort of 'active recovery'.
Goal: Proper One-Armer from hanging.
M - Bachars/Lock-offs; 9m bike ride.
T - Triceps/Delts: Muscle-ups, 5 sets to failure (2 min rests); 9 mile bike ride.
W - Campus - Power Endurance (New PBs); 17m bike ride.
T - 200 push-ups; 200 pull-ups; 9 mile bike ride.
F - Bouldering (30 problems).
S - Rest Day.
S - Lock-offs/offset one-armers (crap session, feeling weak).
Fcukin' weight's gone up 2lbs! Pretty sure I'm consuming far too much protein. I don't have the mass of a bodybuilder, but I'm eating like one, so I'm going to reduce my calorific intake by 25 - 30%. Also replace some of the MTB cardio with fartlek 'Hill Sessions' to shock the metabolism. I'm introducing a 'total rest day' as well, 'cause I might be a bit 'overtrained'.
HD.
PS. Might just do 5 x 30 sec 2 arm deadhangs @ 80% max on the 'total rest day', so as not to interfere with bicep/lat hypertrophy. Sort of 'active recovery'.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Goals:
Redpoint Raindogs;
Benchpress 90kgs x 8 reps;
onsight E6
M- 40min run
T- went to malham, had 2 rp's on project but not on good form
W-
T- Afternoon at Chee Dale, redpointed a 7c, then went to raven tor and worked weedkiller traverse.
F- Bench 3 sets, 80kg x 8 reps. Neglected bench more recently so felt weak.
S- Malham again, didn't feel great and not great conditions but new highpoint reached: touched the chain twice and had 3 fingers in there on one go but still fell off...next time!
S- Bench, same as friday, felt similarly weak.
Think I need 2 clear days rest and decent conditions to ensure success on raindogs next time. Felt a bit under rested climbing wise this week...
Probably be away from the bench this week so will try and do press-ups so as to stand still with it...
Goals:
Redpoint Raindogs;
Benchpress 90kgs x 8 reps;
onsight E6
M- 40min run
T- went to malham, had 2 rp's on project but not on good form
W-
T- Afternoon at Chee Dale, redpointed a 7c, then went to raven tor and worked weedkiller traverse.
F- Bench 3 sets, 80kg x 8 reps. Neglected bench more recently so felt weak.
S- Malham again, didn't feel great and not great conditions but new highpoint reached: touched the chain twice and had 3 fingers in there on one go but still fell off...next time!
S- Bench, same as friday, felt similarly weak.
Think I need 2 clear days rest and decent conditions to ensure success on raindogs next time. Felt a bit under rested climbing wise this week...
Probably be away from the bench this week so will try and do press-ups so as to stand still with it...
In reply to Simon Lee:
Short term goal: Lose about a stone and get more stamina indoors. Do more easy sustained routes rather than short bouldery ones.
Long Term Goal: Be redpointing decent stuff.
Monday: Active rest- Sport at Harpur Hill.
Tuesday: Rest rest
Wednesday: 4 routes @ MCC. Cycled gym and back long route (12 miles) 15 mins Cross trainer, 45 mins spin class.
Thursday: Active rest - Bouldering at Climbing Works
Friday: Cycled gym long route (12 miles). 1 hour cross trainer, abs work.
Saturday: 8 (ish) routes @ MCC.
Sunday: Rest rest. Felt tired.
Comments: Too many rest days this week. Today i really ought to have taken the bike out/ gone to gym but couldnt for reasons i wont go into. Should be sorted for a fresh start tomorrow.
Short term goal: Lose about a stone and get more stamina indoors. Do more easy sustained routes rather than short bouldery ones.
Long Term Goal: Be redpointing decent stuff.
Monday: Active rest- Sport at Harpur Hill.
Tuesday: Rest rest
Wednesday: 4 routes @ MCC. Cycled gym and back long route (12 miles) 15 mins Cross trainer, 45 mins spin class.
Thursday: Active rest - Bouldering at Climbing Works
Friday: Cycled gym long route (12 miles). 1 hour cross trainer, abs work.
Saturday: 8 (ish) routes @ MCC.
Sunday: Rest rest. Felt tired.
Comments: Too many rest days this week. Today i really ought to have taken the bike out/ gone to gym but couldnt for reasons i wont go into. Should be sorted for a fresh start tomorrow.
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: One arm lock off, improve dynos
MTG: Font 7a
M - Rest
T - Campus session, 1-3-1 touches and ladders, also 2x L-hangs for 15 sec and a pyramid set of 46 push ups, low grade bouldering until failure
W - Yoga 1.5 hours
H - Rest
F - Bouldering at the Castle 4 hours, tired (as usual...) but made progress on dyno projects
Sa - Short run (sprained ankle still bothering me)
Su - Bouldering at the Castle 3 hours, weak / tired but got project UK 5c, quit because tendons in arm were hurting
I did my first proper campus session this week in the hopes of eventually improving my ability to throw for holds and increase general power. However, was tired for the rest of the week. Next week I will try to rest a bit more and attempt to run instead, hopefully my sprained ankle will cooperate.
STG: One arm lock off, improve dynos
MTG: Font 7a
M - Rest
T - Campus session, 1-3-1 touches and ladders, also 2x L-hangs for 15 sec and a pyramid set of 46 push ups, low grade bouldering until failure
W - Yoga 1.5 hours
H - Rest
F - Bouldering at the Castle 4 hours, tired (as usual...) but made progress on dyno projects
Sa - Short run (sprained ankle still bothering me)
Su - Bouldering at the Castle 3 hours, weak / tired but got project UK 5c, quit because tendons in arm were hurting
I did my first proper campus session this week in the hopes of eventually improving my ability to throw for holds and increase general power. However, was tired for the rest of the week. Next week I will try to rest a bit more and attempt to run instead, hopefully my sprained ankle will cooperate.
In reply to Jenn:
Newbie joiner here.
Short-term goals
------------------------
Onsight some more E1s, get on some E2s
Mountain multi-pitch HVS
Flash V3, climb V4
Sustain some proper training
Get some more indoor UK 6a boulder projects
Consider cycling to work
Medium-term goals
----------------------------
E3 onsight - stereotypical I know, but The Dervish comes to mind
Big MP routes, Lliwedd / The Alps etc.
Climb V5
Indoor UK 6b boulder problems
Either sustain running or cycling for a change
M - Rest
T - Campus session, 1-3-1 touches and ladders and a pyramid set of 74 push ups, low grade bouldering until failure
W - Yoga 1.5 hours
Th - Rest
F - Bouldering at the Castle 4 hours - progress on UK 6a project, a few UK 5cs
Sa - Short run (first since May :-o)
Su - Bouldering at the Castle 3 hours, progress on another UK 6a project
Newbie joiner here.
Short-term goals
------------------------
Medium-term goals
----------------------------
M - Rest
T - Campus session, 1-3-1 touches and ladders and a pyramid set of 74 push ups, low grade bouldering until failure
W - Yoga 1.5 hours
Th - Rest
F - Bouldering at the Castle 4 hours - progress on UK 6a project, a few UK 5cs
Sa - Short run (first since May :-o)
Su - Bouldering at the Castle 3 hours, progress on another UK 6a project
In reply to Simon Lee:
Goal: Get fitter for holiday (3 weeks left now)
I have managed to do sweet FA this week, oh apart from biking to work on Friday (9 miles)
I was away the first part of the week though
Goal: Get fitter for holiday (3 weeks left now)
I have managed to do sweet FA this week, oh apart from biking to work on Friday (9 miles)
I was away the first part of the week though
In reply to skivingbluecat:
Oh, and aims for this coming week are....
Keep up gym work.
Get indoors about 4 times. Bouldering and routes.
Have maximum of two rest days (this includes active rest days).
Drink lots of water every day.
Stop eating toast and peanut butter... (doh)
Stop chatting nonsense on msn til stupid o'clock and get some decent kip.
Oh, and aims for this coming week are....
Keep up gym work.
Get indoors about 4 times. Bouldering and routes.
Have maximum of two rest days (this includes active rest days).
Drink lots of water every day.
Stop eating toast and peanut butter... (doh)
Stop chatting nonsense on msn til stupid o'clock and get some decent kip.
In reply to skivingbluecat:
During my legendary 'bulking' phases, I've been known to eat a 340g jar of 'Whole Earth' peanut butter, on its own, every night for supper. I've kept that up for a week!
That deserves a proper 'Doh'!
HD.
> (In reply to skivingbluecat)
> Stop eating toast and peanut butter... (doh)
During my legendary 'bulking' phases, I've been known to eat a 340g jar of 'Whole Earth' peanut butter, on its own, every night for supper. I've kept that up for a week!
That deserves a proper 'Doh'!
HD.
In reply to hugedyno: Thats the very stuff i eat. Lovely isnt it. I havent plucked up the courage to read the nutritional info on the back. But they say its sugar free! (shame about the fat...)
Still, a jar a day. Thats hardcore!
Still, a jar a day. Thats hardcore!
In reply to skivingbluecat:
I also used to buy 1kg tubs of 'Meriden' PB from the health shop. No added salt or sugar. Used to have it 1 cm thick on burgen bread (toast) with my own freshly ground sea salt and a drizzle of honey......
mega DOH!
HD.
I also used to buy 1kg tubs of 'Meriden' PB from the health shop. No added salt or sugar. Used to have it 1 cm thick on burgen bread (toast) with my own freshly ground sea salt and a drizzle of honey......
mega DOH!
HD.
In reply to Simon Lee:
M: rest
t: rest
w: 6 miles Abergwngregan trail run
t: Football training
f: 6 miles over Glyder Fawr
s: 7 miles 7 mie road run
s: 3 miles road run
M: rest
t: rest
w: 6 miles Abergwngregan trail run
t: Football training
f: 6 miles over Glyder Fawr
s: 7 miles 7 mie road run
s: 3 miles road run
In reply to hugedyno: OMG. How are you not 37 stone?!
In reply to Simon Lee:
T = Awesome Walls climbing upto 6c
W = Alien Rock session, climbing upto 7a+
T = Alien Rock, teaching.
F = Sleep
S = work
S = work
Aim = just down from the middle...
T = Awesome Walls climbing upto 6c
W = Alien Rock session, climbing upto 7a+
T = Alien Rock, teaching.
F = Sleep
S = work
S = work
Aim = just down from the middle...
In reply to Simon Lee:
Short term goal: Return to UK in reasonable shape, so may be able to get myself up some vertical surfaces.
Long term goal (i.e. by the autumn): Be climbing multipitch VS.
M: 6km run - 32:36
T: Cycle - 20 mins & assorted exercises and weights
W: 6km run - 31:48
T: Overslept and enjoyed it
F: 3km run - 14:46 & assorted exercises and weights
S: 6km run - 31:14
S: 3km run - 14:20 & assorted exercises and weights.
I feel less unfit this week. Though not anywhere near as fit as I was in July. Found it interesting running shorter distances faster, albeit only faster by my standards, now thinking that I could be running the 6km a fair bit harder than I have been.
Should get back to the UK on Wednesday, so will try and get down the wall a few times. Hopefully away for some actual climbing the following weekend, early september I guess.
Short term goal: Return to UK in reasonable shape, so may be able to get myself up some vertical surfaces.
Long term goal (i.e. by the autumn): Be climbing multipitch VS.
M: 6km run - 32:36
T: Cycle - 20 mins & assorted exercises and weights
W: 6km run - 31:48
T: Overslept and enjoyed it
F: 3km run - 14:46 & assorted exercises and weights
S: 6km run - 31:14
S: 3km run - 14:20 & assorted exercises and weights.
I feel less unfit this week. Though not anywhere near as fit as I was in July. Found it interesting running shorter distances faster, albeit only faster by my standards, now thinking that I could be running the 6km a fair bit harder than I have been.
Should get back to the UK on Wednesday, so will try and get down the wall a few times. Hopefully away for some actual climbing the following weekend, early september I guess.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Odd week battling against a virus, the weather, and a lack of partners.
M:R
T:R
W: Kilnsey, felt rough. Tried project, managed 7c+ first bit fell off the extension.
T: R
F: Malham, felt rough again. Tried project on TR to end of hard climbing, did it cleanly twice. Bit of a surprise...
S:R
S: PE circuits on attic board, weights and core.
Odd week battling against a virus, the weather, and a lack of partners.
M:R
T:R
W: Kilnsey, felt rough. Tried project, managed 7c+ first bit fell off the extension.
T: R
F: Malham, felt rough again. Tried project on TR to end of hard climbing, did it cleanly twice. Bit of a surprise...
S:R
S: PE circuits on attic board, weights and core.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Short Term Goal(s): Try to gain peak strength for Magic Wood trip, Consolidate font 7b, climb font 7c, get a solid front lever
Long term Goal(s): Climb font 8a, perform front lever pull ups
Monday: Fingerboard, crunches, levers (am); weights (pm)
Tuesday: Campus session (am); Rest (pm)
Wednesday: Rest (am); Boulder session indoors (pm)
Thursday: Rest (am); Fingerboard, crunches, pressups (pm)
Friday: Rest (worked 13hr shift )
Saturday: Rest (work)
Sunday: Rest (work)
Had to get the training in earlier this week knowing I had to work the entire weekend, wasn't too depressing seeing as the weather was shocking! Looking forwards to a good lie in, followed by some hard training tomorrow being fully rested
Short Term Goal(s): Try to gain peak strength for Magic Wood trip, Consolidate font 7b, climb font 7c, get a solid front lever
Long term Goal(s): Climb font 8a, perform front lever pull ups
Monday: Fingerboard, crunches, levers (am); weights (pm)
Tuesday: Campus session (am); Rest (pm)
Wednesday: Rest (am); Boulder session indoors (pm)
Thursday: Rest (am); Fingerboard, crunches, pressups (pm)
Friday: Rest (worked 13hr shift )
Saturday: Rest (work)
Sunday: Rest (work)
Had to get the training in earlier this week knowing I had to work the entire weekend, wasn't too depressing seeing as the weather was shocking! Looking forwards to a good lie in, followed by some hard training tomorrow being fully rested
In reply to Simon Lee: New Starter also recovering from fractured finger and lower back injury.
LTG - Specific V10 Prob.
STG - Various V8/V9 Probs.
TG - One arm lock, front on, 1st joint edge.
Mon - 1 arms locks on good rung. 5 x 10 secs both arms/Weighted deadhangs
Tues - Antagonist workout & physio prescribed pilates core stuff
Weds - 1 arms locks on good rung. 5 x 10 secs both arms/Weighted deadhangs
Thurs - Antagonist workout & physio prescribed pilates core stuff
Fri - Rest/Beer
Sat - Boulder outside - 2 Projects. Fall from last move on 1st a few times (happy) Fall from top on 2nd few times (unhappy as top out is crux so no real progress)
Sun rest.
LTG - Specific V10 Prob.
STG - Various V8/V9 Probs.
TG - One arm lock, front on, 1st joint edge.
Mon - 1 arms locks on good rung. 5 x 10 secs both arms/Weighted deadhangs
Tues - Antagonist workout & physio prescribed pilates core stuff
Weds - 1 arms locks on good rung. 5 x 10 secs both arms/Weighted deadhangs
Thurs - Antagonist workout & physio prescribed pilates core stuff
Fri - Rest/Beer
Sat - Boulder outside - 2 Projects. Fall from last move on 1st a few times (happy) Fall from top on 2nd few times (unhappy as top out is crux so no real progress)
Sun rest.
In reply to Simon Lee: Back from tweaked shoulder! (not 100%, but enough)
Objective - not needed
Mon - 2 Long hard hours Gym
Tues - 2 hard hours in gym
Wed - Circus
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Snowboard
Sun - Snowboard
Mon - Slightly sunburnt
Cheers
LD
Objective - not needed
Mon - 2 Long hard hours Gym
Tues - 2 hard hours in gym
Wed - Circus
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Snowboard
Sun - Snowboard
Mon - Slightly sunburnt
Cheers
LD
In reply to Simon Lee: Back from tweaked shoulder! (not 100%, but enough)
Objective - not needed
Mon - 2 Long hard hours Gym
Tues - 2 hard hours in gym
Wed - Circus
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Snowboard
Sun - Snowboard, how much fun? (despite the skiers)
Mon - Slightly sunburnt
Cheers
LD
Objective - not needed
Mon - 2 Long hard hours Gym
Tues - 2 hard hours in gym
Wed - Circus
Thurs - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Snowboard
Sun - Snowboard, how much fun? (despite the skiers)
Mon - Slightly sunburnt
Cheers
LD
In reply to Simon Lee:
STG: Not get too fat, don't lose too much strength.
MTG: Lose weight for Font (5kg), get back up to Font 7a. Lead E2 (onsight)
M: Rock Rings, Protagonistic exercises*, Deadhangs, Sprints.
T: Antagonistic, Deadhangs+, Sprints
W: Tennis for 1 ½ hours
T: 30 mins on runner, Sprints
F: Rock Rings, Pull downs, 30 mins on runner
S: 30 mins on runner, Sprints
S:
Achieved:
*Managed 3 sets of 4 @95kg on Lat Pulldown. (PB)
+Managed 2 secs “deadhang” on 3 finger pocket of Rockring on lat pulldown machine @70kg. – With a bit of weight loss and some more work I’m not too far off one handing the bottom pocket. Encouraging.
A good week but marred by lots of heavy drinking due to Indian Independence day and associated celebrations. Weight has stayed at around 86kg.
Next week:
Keep up the effort whilst still in India. Actually climb outside when back in the UK next weekend.
STG: Not get too fat, don't lose too much strength.
MTG: Lose weight for Font (5kg), get back up to Font 7a. Lead E2 (onsight)
M: Rock Rings, Protagonistic exercises*, Deadhangs, Sprints.
T: Antagonistic, Deadhangs+, Sprints
W: Tennis for 1 ½ hours
T: 30 mins on runner, Sprints
F: Rock Rings, Pull downs, 30 mins on runner
S: 30 mins on runner, Sprints
S:
Achieved:
*Managed 3 sets of 4 @95kg on Lat Pulldown. (PB)
+Managed 2 secs “deadhang” on 3 finger pocket of Rockring on lat pulldown machine @70kg. – With a bit of weight loss and some more work I’m not too far off one handing the bottom pocket. Encouraging.
A good week but marred by lots of heavy drinking due to Indian Independence day and associated celebrations. Weight has stayed at around 86kg.
Next week:
Keep up the effort whilst still in India. Actually climb outside when back in the UK next weekend.
In reply to galpinos: If you're in India, can't you just eat a piece of unwashed fruit or take a taste of the local water- Then you should 'drop' the 5 kilos you want to lose with very little effort. Probably overnight!
In reply to Carnage:
I was hoping for a bit of Delhi belly to sort out my weight. Unfortunately this hasn't happened and combined with my 2 currys a day and plenty of booze in the free hotel bar I've got quite fat. Got to live the ex-pat life style!
I'm not brave enough to take the water option, some of the guys have got quite ill (one hospitalised) so I'll stick with just getting fat. I'm treating it as my natural weight belt.
I was hoping for a bit of Delhi belly to sort out my weight. Unfortunately this hasn't happened and combined with my 2 currys a day and plenty of booze in the free hotel bar I've got quite fat. Got to live the ex-pat life style!
I'm not brave enough to take the water option, some of the guys have got quite ill (one hospitalised) so I'll stick with just getting fat. I'm treating it as my natural weight belt.
In reply to MattOwen:
If you want to climb a certain grade of route then you need to start getting on them, then you either get up the route or back off and learn something that will help you next time. If you're not losing the odd bit of gear you aren't trying hard enough.
Give it a go. Bilberry Buttress on Raven Crag in Langdale is a good one, 3 VS pitches, good belays and escape possible after each pitch onto the adjacent severe.
If you want to climb a certain grade of route then you need to start getting on them, then you either get up the route or back off and learn something that will help you next time. If you're not losing the odd bit of gear you aren't trying hard enough.
Give it a go. Bilberry Buttress on Raven Crag in Langdale is a good one, 3 VS pitches, good belays and escape possible after each pitch onto the adjacent severe.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Monday Strength training
Tuesday 30 min run
Wednesday Bouldering session ARC, managed to fall off and hit my hand on a hold resulting in a very swollen knuckle only now starting to feel better.
Thursday Bike ride for an hour
Friday off
Saturday dog walk and hour and a half followed by a bike ride for an hour
Sunday 3 hour walk with the dog in the woods
Monday Strength training
Tuesday 30 min run
Wednesday Bouldering session ARC, managed to fall off and hit my hand on a hold resulting in a very swollen knuckle only now starting to feel better.
Thursday Bike ride for an hour
Friday off
Saturday dog walk and hour and a half followed by a bike ride for an hour
Sunday 3 hour walk with the dog in the woods
In reply to galpinos:
Get fitter for going to kalymnos 15 September
mon: run 5.25miles
tue: works - warm-up, bouldering, PE traverses (furthest ever on purple loop in trainnig board)
wed: works - first ever arcing half an hour, brown circuit (most of what was up between construction areas!)
thu: got back from work 8pm - nowt
fri: diner at friends
sat: malham - 2x7a warm up in sections on TR, 3xwork 7b in sections TR
sun: walk 4-5 miles
Get fitter for going to kalymnos 15 September
mon: run 5.25miles
tue: works - warm-up, bouldering, PE traverses (furthest ever on purple loop in trainnig board)
wed: works - first ever arcing half an hour, brown circuit (most of what was up between construction areas!)
thu: got back from work 8pm - nowt
fri: diner at friends
sat: malham - 2x7a warm up in sections on TR, 3xwork 7b in sections TR
sun: walk 4-5 miles
In reply to Simon Lee:
Goals : Lead E3 6a onsight by the end of the summer. (a specific route I have in mind)
Loose the rest of the beer gut (half a stone).
Be hill fit for any spur of the moment big hill days.
Be in good shape for indoor winter goal (F7a)
Be in good shape for outdoor winter goal (VII)
M 7k Trail Run
T Ratho Bouldering
W Nothing
T Packing for NW
F Driving to NW
S Got rained on in the NW
S Hillwalking – Beinn Alligin with g/f & Mutt.
Goals : Lead E3 6a onsight by the end of the summer. (a specific route I have in mind)
Loose the rest of the beer gut (half a stone).
Be hill fit for any spur of the moment big hill days.
Be in good shape for indoor winter goal (F7a)
Be in good shape for outdoor winter goal (VII)
M 7k Trail Run
T Ratho Bouldering
W Nothing
T Packing for NW
F Driving to NW
S Got rained on in the NW
S Hillwalking – Beinn Alligin with g/f & Mutt.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Ok more relaxed week now.
Weight 72.6(inflated by beer 71.8 more accurate) to 70.8 (awesome)
AM PM
M REST
T GYM MCC shortish session
W GYM Rest
T Rest Rest
F Rest MCC shortish route session
S MCC about 11 routes more stamina
S Malham got on Herbie(7c+) for first time... some good progress.
Conclusion Lots of rest equals more loss of weight and good progress on hard routes.
Coming Week.
1/ already resting this morning from yesterday at malham.
2/ got an ipod so lots of cardio in store i think.
3/think i can start the first progression for front lever again this week.
4/ lots of core tension work. for new project
5/need to do more higher intensity laps i think for Herbie training.
6/Still not had a bouldering session for a while. Although working that brick hard 7b+/c at MCC probably counts partially to a bouldering session.
7/if i can keep the weight down that's awesome. Hoping below 70KG by end of week.
8/definatly concentrate on more sleep thats a big factor i think to recovery and sanity.
Cheers
Tim
Ok more relaxed week now.
Weight 72.6(inflated by beer 71.8 more accurate) to 70.8 (awesome)
AM PM
M REST
T GYM MCC shortish session
W GYM Rest
T Rest Rest
F Rest MCC shortish route session
S MCC about 11 routes more stamina
S Malham got on Herbie(7c+) for first time... some good progress.
Conclusion Lots of rest equals more loss of weight and good progress on hard routes.
Coming Week.
1/ already resting this morning from yesterday at malham.
2/ got an ipod so lots of cardio in store i think.
3/think i can start the first progression for front lever again this week.
4/ lots of core tension work. for new project
5/need to do more higher intensity laps i think for Herbie training.
6/Still not had a bouldering session for a while. Although working that brick hard 7b+/c at MCC probably counts partially to a bouldering session.
7/if i can keep the weight down that's awesome. Hoping below 70KG by end of week.
8/definatly concentrate on more sleep thats a big factor i think to recovery and sanity.
Cheers
Tim
In reply to Simon Lee:
Medium term goals - tone up and get fit for trip to Mallorca.
I'm going to have to put myself in the hall of shame. Shockingly lazy week which I put down to a combination of time involved and stress of trying to sell house and trying to lose weight and not actually eating enough to have any energy.
M - Run 2.5 miles flat
T -
W -
T- Bouldering at Chapel (slightly off set by pint afterwards)
F - Run 3 miles
S -
S -
On the plus side looks like house is sold and I have lost weight.
Goals for this week
Run 15 miles over 4 sessions
Climb at least once
Eat enough but not too much
Medium term goals - tone up and get fit for trip to Mallorca.
I'm going to have to put myself in the hall of shame. Shockingly lazy week which I put down to a combination of time involved and stress of trying to sell house and trying to lose weight and not actually eating enough to have any energy.
M - Run 2.5 miles flat
T -
W -
T- Bouldering at Chapel (slightly off set by pint afterwards)
F - Run 3 miles
S -
S -
On the plus side looks like house is sold and I have lost weight.
Goals for this week
Run 15 miles over 4 sessions
Climb at least once
Eat enough but not too much
In reply to Simon Lee:
S: Recover from Saturday's party.
M: Continue with recovery and clean house - Gave up Drinking.
T: 5 Mile run - Actually only ran about 4 miles as achillies tendonitis decided to flare up at the top of Burbage South forcing a homeward hobble.
W: Bouldering @ The Edge, 1.5 hrs on problems up to V5 and 45 mins doing 30 move circuits....Arms suitably pumped.
T: Routes @ The Edge, getting back some fitness now which is nice, still a fair way to go.
F: Chilled
S: London - Booooo!!
Getting better but must fit in a fingerboard session or 2 and get me bike fixed as runnings still out due to this bloody tendonitis.
S: Recover from Saturday's party.
M: Continue with recovery and clean house - Gave up Drinking.
T: 5 Mile run - Actually only ran about 4 miles as achillies tendonitis decided to flare up at the top of Burbage South forcing a homeward hobble.
W: Bouldering @ The Edge, 1.5 hrs on problems up to V5 and 45 mins doing 30 move circuits....Arms suitably pumped.
T: Routes @ The Edge, getting back some fitness now which is nice, still a fair way to go.
F: Chilled
S: London - Booooo!!
Getting better but must fit in a fingerboard session or 2 and get me bike fixed as runnings still out due to this bloody tendonitis.
Monday: Run - 30mins Cycle - 1hr 1/2
Tue: Cycle - 1hr 1/2, weights 30mins
Wed: Cycle - 1hr 1/2, pilates 30
Thurs: Walked 22 miles
Friday: Cycle - 2 hrs
Sat: Went to Borlum Farm and swam in mud
Sun: rest
Tue: Cycle - 1hr 1/2, weights 30mins
Wed: Cycle - 1hr 1/2, pilates 30
Thurs: Walked 22 miles
Friday: Cycle - 2 hrs
Sat: Went to Borlum Farm and swam in mud
Sun: rest
In reply to Fiend:
S - Bouldering and a couple of routes at MCC. Light and unstructured (mostly earning credit with GF) but good to get muscles working.
> (S - Hopefully some indoor route training, again focus on hanging on.)
S - Bouldering and a couple of routes at MCC. Light and unstructured (mostly earning credit with GF) but good to get muscles working.
In reply to MattG:
Cheers,
Will check it out.
I think you're right - need to get on the rock and start pushing it a little more
Cheers,
Will check it out.
I think you're right - need to get on the rock and start pushing it a little more
I'm back!
Climbed Saturday, only a VS and HVS, but both long and sustained, so glad stamina held up.
Surfed M,T,W,T,F, twice a day on 3 of those days. Some big surf so stamina for paddling out was good.
S,S,M - Nothing
T - Wall session; routes plus a bit of bouldering, no really loss in strength which is good.
Weight; up 1.5 lb
So now;
Short term goal; pink spots problem
Long term goal, get strength and stamina up for Arizona trip, in 4 weeks now.
Climbed Saturday, only a VS and HVS, but both long and sustained, so glad stamina held up.
Surfed M,T,W,T,F, twice a day on 3 of those days. Some big surf so stamina for paddling out was good.
S,S,M - Nothing
T - Wall session; routes plus a bit of bouldering, no really loss in strength which is good.
Weight; up 1.5 lb
So now;
Short term goal; pink spots problem
Long term goal, get strength and stamina up for Arizona trip, in 4 weeks now.
In reply to Simon Lee:
Goals:
Short term: Recover from injury without gaining too much weight or losing too much fitness.
Medium Term: Regain the fitness I had at begining of year
(Very) Long term: Supercool, Font 7b and 1-4-7
M: Some sit ups and press ups, iced finger
T: Some sit ups and press ups, iced finger
W: Iced finger
T: 30 minutes on tread will plus weights, Iced finger
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Erm....6 pull ups before collapsing.
Diet: Ate well Mondy to Thursday, between Friday night and Sunday I ate two three course Pizza hut meals, a Chinese take away and a MacDonalds.
injuries: Finger (tendon), left shoulder (muscular) and right knee (swollen)
Goals:
Short term: Recover from injury without gaining too much weight or losing too much fitness.
Medium Term: Regain the fitness I had at begining of year
(Very) Long term: Supercool, Font 7b and 1-4-7
M: Some sit ups and press ups, iced finger
T: Some sit ups and press ups, iced finger
W: Iced finger
T: 30 minutes on tread will plus weights, Iced finger
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Erm....6 pull ups before collapsing.
Diet: Ate well Mondy to Thursday, between Friday night and Sunday I ate two three course Pizza hut meals, a Chinese take away and a MacDonalds.
injuries: Finger (tendon), left shoulder (muscular) and right knee (swollen)
In reply to Simon Lee:
Well ashamed to say that I hardly did anything this week. Really ashamed to say that after IainRUK completed the Paddy Buckley round with a continous run of 21hrs he still managed to rack up more miles than me the week after.
So here goes.
Last week? Unsure if I had any goals? If so I probably failed to achieve them.
Goal for this week, Do a fair bit of running milage and height gain in prep for Yorkshireman Marathon also lets chuck in some weights sessions to add to goals.
Mon - Rest
Tuesday - 4 miles uphill jog, followed by 3 x 1 mile reps plus 1 extra mile there and back.
Wed - Nothing (guests round for tea)
Thurs - Nothing (should have been hills)
Fri - Nothing (tapering)
Sat - quick 3 mile blast just to get rid of some cobwebs
Sun - 14 miles 6000ft ascent Sedbergh Hills Fell Race
Ashamed to say I am not even going to climb at all this week. Shockingly poor I know. Especially on a climing forum.
Well ashamed to say that I hardly did anything this week. Really ashamed to say that after IainRUK completed the Paddy Buckley round with a continous run of 21hrs he still managed to rack up more miles than me the week after.
So here goes.
Last week? Unsure if I had any goals? If so I probably failed to achieve them.
Goal for this week, Do a fair bit of running milage and height gain in prep for Yorkshireman Marathon also lets chuck in some weights sessions to add to goals.
Mon - Rest
Tuesday - 4 miles uphill jog, followed by 3 x 1 mile reps plus 1 extra mile there and back.
Wed - Nothing (guests round for tea)
Thurs - Nothing (should have been hills)
Fri - Nothing (tapering)
Sat - quick 3 mile blast just to get rid of some cobwebs
Sun - 14 miles 6000ft ascent Sedbergh Hills Fell Race
Ashamed to say I am not even going to climb at all this week. Shockingly poor I know. Especially on a climing forum.
In reply to Simon Lee:
M - Board good session
T - Rest Day / Drive to font day (Glorious weather)
W - Hautes Plaines then Rochet aux Sabots (Showers)
T - Cul De Chien then Bas Cuvier in the evening
F - Hautes Plaines Buthiers/Malesherbes
S - Beauvais
S - (Rain)- head off to Amsterdam as swiss forecast is rubbish.
Good trip, given the heat got some respectable ticks.
M - Board good session
T - Rest Day / Drive to font day (Glorious weather)
W - Hautes Plaines then Rochet aux Sabots (Showers)
T - Cul De Chien then Bas Cuvier in the evening
F - Hautes Plaines Buthiers/Malesherbes
S - Beauvais
S - (Rain)- head off to Amsterdam as swiss forecast is rubbish.
Good trip, given the heat got some respectable ticks.
In reply to Paul B:
M. Stanage with boys - did Green trav (but still not full Green)
T. Bouldering on Wave
W.
T. Malham. Did 6 routes in under 2 hrs (Oak still wet)
F. Bike ride
S.
S.
Camped in Dales at w/e but weather rubbish.
M. Stanage with boys - did Green trav (but still not full Green)
T. Bouldering on Wave
W.
T. Malham. Did 6 routes in under 2 hrs (Oak still wet)
F. Bike ride
S.
S.
Camped in Dales at w/e but weather rubbish.
In reply to Simon Lee: Went to Pex for a light bouldering session, top-roped a few E3's. The shoulder is feeling much better after the rest. I'm on holiday with the family next week and hope to squeeze a little bouldering in.
If September is dry I may try to get back on routes.
Andy F
If September is dry I may try to get back on routes.
Andy F
In reply to Simon Lee:
As I expected I was a bit busy last week, and didn't even manage my goal of 4 sessions:
M - Routes at Almscliff, back up to VS now, HVS next I suppose!
T,W,Th,F... nothing! (training wise anyway)
S - MTB, 1hr20 off road, muddy!
S - Good sesssion doing routes down the wall
Goal for this week is to improve on that, but I've got morning appointments with the bank (x2) and estate agents, so we'll see how it goes. Normal service might be resumed next week, but I've got to get some painting done as well when there's some nice days, never mind. Posting here does motivate me a bit to fit in what I can anyway.
As I expected I was a bit busy last week, and didn't even manage my goal of 4 sessions:
M - Routes at Almscliff, back up to VS now, HVS next I suppose!
T,W,Th,F... nothing! (training wise anyway)
S - MTB, 1hr20 off road, muddy!
S - Good sesssion doing routes down the wall
Goal for this week is to improve on that, but I've got morning appointments with the bank (x2) and estate agents, so we'll see how it goes. Normal service might be resumed next week, but I've got to get some painting done as well when there's some nice days, never mind. Posting here does motivate me a bit to fit in what I can anyway.
In reply to Simon Lee: - who has shamed me with a nudging email!
goal: keep up the aerobic fitness, get closer to being able to run
All I've done is swim in the local pool and cycle some very hilly routes. Climbing seems to have got lost somehow, but it will be back...
date / day / weight / activity / distance (mi or m) / time (min)
13/08/2007 Mon / 70 / Swim / 1600 / 42.5
14/08/2007 Tue / 70 / cycle / 14.3 / 61
15/08/2007 Wed / 69 / Swim / 1600 / 37.8
16/08/2007 Thu / 69 / gym / 60 min
17/08/2007 Fri / 69 / Swim / 1600 / 38.8
18/08/2007 Sat / 69 / cycle / 13 / 63
Plus a couple of 10 min jogs, plus another half hour, somewhere, in the gym at work, trying to get the leg better. I've since been floor sanding for three days, which is much more knackering than any of the above!
the nerdy spreadsheet where I've started to keep a record of all this says the 100 things done is up, in 96 days!
goal: keep up the aerobic fitness, get closer to being able to run
All I've done is swim in the local pool and cycle some very hilly routes. Climbing seems to have got lost somehow, but it will be back...
date / day / weight / activity / distance (mi or m) / time (min)
13/08/2007 Mon / 70 / Swim / 1600 / 42.5
14/08/2007 Tue / 70 / cycle / 14.3 / 61
15/08/2007 Wed / 69 / Swim / 1600 / 37.8
16/08/2007 Thu / 69 / gym / 60 min
17/08/2007 Fri / 69 / Swim / 1600 / 38.8
18/08/2007 Sat / 69 / cycle / 13 / 63
Plus a couple of 10 min jogs, plus another half hour, somewhere, in the gym at work, trying to get the leg better. I've since been floor sanding for three days, which is much more knackering than any of the above!
the nerdy spreadsheet where I've started to keep a record of all this says the 100 things done is up, in 96 days!
In reply to Simon Lee:
goals. get as good as possible for November bouldering comps, phase 2, strength and power, week 2 (wk 6 overall)
m - rest
t - flexibility stretching, yoga, fingerboard and bar work
w - rest
t - Bouldering at Rochdale - proper warm up, all the orange cicuit(>5a), all the yellow circuit(5a), 5 greens (5b), 2 blue (5c)
f - rest
s - Climbing at Stanage -3 routes in the rain
s - Roaches - no climbing due to slimy rock
rubbish week really although pleased I flashed a 5c, nothing major really but hey!
goals. get as good as possible for November bouldering comps, phase 2, strength and power, week 2 (wk 6 overall)
m - rest
t - flexibility stretching, yoga, fingerboard and bar work
w - rest
t - Bouldering at Rochdale - proper warm up, all the orange cicuit(>5a), all the yellow circuit(5a), 5 greens (5b), 2 blue (5c)
f - rest
s - Climbing at Stanage -3 routes in the rain
s - Roaches - no climbing due to slimy rock
rubbish week really although pleased I flashed a 5c, nothing major really but hey!
In reply to Simon Lee: Still ill and under the weather. Watched a lot of TV tho!
In reply to mbh at work: I'm trying to drop some weight, 2-3 kilos. Being food, well cake and pudding mad, as well as liking a drink this is proving hard. But last night I even persuaded my wife that we should stay in and have lentil curry rather than going to the pub for pizza and a pint. Only had one glass of wine since Sunday which is a big thing for me, and that was at a party when I very tempted to have more.
My bosses daughter made banana muffins for coffee yesterday and I couldn't even go for fear of cleaning up. I'll always eat what's left over.
My bosses daughter made banana muffins for coffee yesterday and I couldn't even go for fear of cleaning up. I'll always eat what's left over.
In reply to Simon Lee:
sorry i,m late'couldn,t log on being on home computor.
m.rest
t.bouldering rockcity
w.bike 1hr 20mins including 2x20mins at 75/85% h/r
th.bouldering rockcity
f.rest
sat.bouldering rockcity
sun.swiss ball exs.dead hanging session,i hour turbo session bike.
conclusion.feel weak.
webbo
sorry i,m late'couldn,t log on being on home computor.
m.rest
t.bouldering rockcity
w.bike 1hr 20mins including 2x20mins at 75/85% h/r
th.bouldering rockcity
f.rest
sat.bouldering rockcity
sun.swiss ball exs.dead hanging session,i hour turbo session bike.
conclusion.feel weak.
webbo
In reply to Simon Lee:
This week has been an easy one, getting myself ready for next week!
S-Diving, practicing some of the drills I'll be doing to death next week, except life line drills, which I'm hoping I've revised enough!
M-5k
T-Weight circuits
W-5k and 9 station circuit
T-Rest
F-5k
S-Weight session
Might go for a buick interval session later, but nothing too taxing, then it's off back down to the DDS tomorrow for my DAT. Hopefully I'll last the week and get on course!
This week has been an easy one, getting myself ready for next week!
S-Diving, practicing some of the drills I'll be doing to death next week, except life line drills, which I'm hoping I've revised enough!
M-5k
T-Weight circuits
W-5k and 9 station circuit
T-Rest
F-5k
S-Weight session
Might go for a buick interval session later, but nothing too taxing, then it's off back down to the DDS tomorrow for my DAT. Hopefully I'll last the week and get on course!
In reply to Simon Lee:
Do you think the BMC Leading Ladder will be useful in your campaign to get (and keep) fit? Check it out here http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2076
Do you think the BMC Leading Ladder will be useful in your campaign to get (and keep) fit? Check it out here http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2076
In reply to Simon Lee:
Sorry this is late sir, dog ate my computer etc
I was away from a computer this week, so it's a bit of a strain on my memory to think back to what I was doing...
Goals as usual recover from finger injury, redpoint 8a and climb E5's
M: Bridestones bouldering
T: Mtbing
W: Denham Quarry Trad
T: -
F: MCC routes
S: -
S: ice skating!
Sorry this is late sir, dog ate my computer etc
I was away from a computer this week, so it's a bit of a strain on my memory to think back to what I was doing...
Goals as usual recover from finger injury, redpoint 8a and climb E5's
M: Bridestones bouldering
T: Mtbing
W: Denham Quarry Trad
T: -
F: MCC routes
S: -
S: ice skating!
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News BMC Publishes New GB Climbing Performance Department Proposals
The British Mountaineering Council has published a series of papers outlining new proposals for the oversight of GB Climbing, following management issues related to the internal business unit last year and a member-led proposal to...
29 Apr
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