UKC

Kilnsey - Some help please

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 RWH 23 Aug 2007
I have made an impromptu deciesion to go to Kilnsey this weekend on the advice of a mate. However this mate has just flown off to the dolomites so I can not ask him for advice. Could anyone please help therefor and answer the following:

What is the classic aid route there?

Is there a topo I can download?

Can I find the crag without a guidebook?

Can we bivi at the bottom?

Is there a cafe nearby?

Is it still well pegged or should I take a hammer?

Which guidebook is it in?


Many, many thanks in advance.

Richard.
 jl100 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH: There is a classic aid route called Kilnsey main, it was about C1 when i did it or 8something free. All the clips were in place and there was just the odd move off a rusty peg and one off a nut to begin with.

Its difficult to miss, its right on the main road out of grassington going towards kettlewell (B6160).

Rockfax.com for guidebook.

Dont take a hammer!
 Al Evans 23 Aug 2007
In reply to JoeL 90: No cafe, but a pub at the bottom that does food, B6160 and its roadside, difficult to miss. No idea what you are allowed to aid these days.
 richardh 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH:

> Can I find the crag without a guidebook?
>

I'd hope so, it's hard to miss.

> Can we bivi at the bottom?
>

Depends how many pints of blood you'd like to lose to the midges

> Is there a cafe nearby?
>

there's a cafe at the trout farm place about 200 yards before the pub

> Is it still well pegged or should I take a hammer?
>

From the guide "If any extra pegs are placed they should be removed". It's both aid and free it seems.

> Which guidebook is it in?
>

Yorkshire Limestone

 Al Evans 23 Aug 2007
In reply to richardh: The trout cafe is new!
OP RWH 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH: Many thanks all.
OP RWH 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH: Oh yeah and can I find the route with no guide?

Cheers.
 Al Evans 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH: How would you expect to do that? Is this a troll?
 jl100 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH: Just buy the Yorkshire Limestone guidebook and also look for Diedre and Birdsnest crack. Youd really have to try to not find a route supposing you find the crag.
OP RWH 23 Aug 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Not a troll. I just thought that the classic aid line would stand out. - Obvious line over the biggest part of the overhang with loads of pegs and polish.

Would I realy go to the effort of writing a lish of questions just to wind people up?
 richardh 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH:

i must admit, I was beginning to wonder if you were just about to wander up to the crag and start pegging.

walk up the path to the crag, there is only one main one, this lands you at the bottom of the directissima. go up that, 6c, shiny, keep going to the break. and I've no idea from there. out, out and away.
 Al Evans 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH: Errr, seriously, its not like that, you will need a guide.
 Al Evans 23 Aug 2007
In reply to richardh: Not good advice, really Richard, it isn't.
 richardh 23 Aug 2007
In reply to Al Evans:

I did say I had no idea after the directissima bit!
OP RWH 23 Aug 2007
In reply to richardh: Alright chaps that is what I was after - I shall have to buy a guide. Many thanks and I really wasn't trying to waste your time.

And richard when I said "do I need a hammer?" I meant are there likly to be any missing pegs I should replace. The intention was to give something back to the route, should it need it, not destroy it.

Thanks again all.
 Al Evans 23 Aug 2007
In reply to richardh: I know mate, but I'm worried he's getting the wrong idea, The Directissima has been free since 1975, I should know I did it then with Ron, we never wanted or expected it to be an aid route after that, it got bolted which is just one of those things, but it was never meant to be an aid route ever again, for gods sake it's not that hard, Ron gave it HVS for gods sake!
You do a short pitch up to the right to exit, I think I actually led that bit.
Its not an aid option is what I am saying.
 richardh 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH:

no worries. That bit I put in quotes is from the guide ,the latest edition. Would seem to suggest that you can use more pegs in the Mandela bit, but should remove them afterwards.

this suggests you won't need to:

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=2705
 Bob 23 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH:

It's all "clean" aid - no pegs required though having a clip-stick and plenty of long slings to extend the bolts on the first pitch would be useful. Once above the lower-off at two-thirds height you'll need a few wires for threads and looping over old pegs to get to the original belay.

The roof was fully equipped with quickdraws when we did it earlier this year.

boB
 Al Evans 23 Aug 2007
In reply to Bob: I may be doing the OP a disservice, I'm extremely sorry mate if I am, but I would expect anybody who knew the answers to your questions would realise what he was taking on, and anybody who didn't should go away and think again.
OP RWH 23 Aug 2007
In reply to Al Evans: You are rather Al. I am simply someone who does not have a guide and has only a 50:50 chance of picking one up before tomorrow night.

I can assure you I do not need to go away and think about it.

Richard.
In reply to RWH:

It hasn't really been stressed enough but please don't hammer pegs in this route. You run the risk of damaging one of the most spectacular sport climbs in the country,

On the other hand, if you wanted to do a public service, replacing the in-situ slings/quickdraws would be nice....
 jl100 24 Aug 2007
In reply to midgets of the world unite:
> (In reply to RWH)
>
> It hasn't really been stressed enough but please don't hammer pegs in this route. You run the risk of damaging one of the most spectacular sport climbs in the country,

Surely hed be helping lesser sport climbers...
 JDDD 24 Aug 2007
In reply to RWH: All is dead obvious - the crag, the line the bolts (some quite old) etc. What is not obvious is the fact that despite gut feelings, it is impossible to throw a stone from the road and hit the crag. A sure bet to have with you mate. (I have been told)
New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...