UKC

The Alps has experienced stable weather and good conditions, especially on the Grandes Jorasses where Jon Bracey completed two grande courses in a week, one of which together with Neil Brodie was the first British repeat of the Whymper Spur Original' aka Bonatti-Vaucher (6th - 9th August 1964, 1,100...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

TWO CLIMBERS MAKE UMPTEENTH ASCENT OF ROUTE FIRST CLIMBED 45 YEARS AGO !!!

Bit thin on news this week Mick ?

In reply to Neil Brodie:

Neil,

not trying to make you look a better climber than you already are , but:

1) It's not the "umpteenth" ascent, only the eight "confirmed" (or ninth, depending if you summited before the other team or not - still haven't checked the Boccalatte book)

2) It may have been climbed 45 years ago, but the Bonatti-Vaucher was far ahead of its time. Harder than the MacIntyre-Colton (opened 13 years later with more advanced material), or so goes the local buzz (you decide!).

3) It's the Grandes Jorasses, for Pete's sake!

In reply to Neil Brodie:



I wish. Not thin on anything...that's the problem.

I'll continue.

Mick

In reply to Neil Brodie:

Inspirational as well Neil......motivating even!

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

It's called "British self-deprecating humour", and is envied more or less everywhere else in Europe

In reply to Neil Brodie: Well... you've inspired me. The Colton/Mac is one of my dream routes.

How many ascents has it had?

Scottish Grad VI 5? or not really comparable?

I take it's like climbing all the grade VI routes on indicator wall in day, at altitude? I.e Phyadellic, Riders, Albatross, and then yet more.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

http://www.nevasport.com/phorum/read.php?10,1121996

good link to pictures on here tom, looks pretty nails, especially the mixed pitch he is on, report on alpinist on these spanish dudes who did it in a round trip from malaga in three days, including driving in.

Gives the grade as m6, so alot harder than VI 5 I would have thought.

In reply to smithaldo:

Thanks for that link; good to see some photos of the route.

Tom: You can't really compare continental mixed grades to Scottish but as a rough guide, add 1 to the M grade for the overall Scottish grade ie. M6 is roughly equivalent to Scots VII.

In reply to Andy Hobson: Andy, I still have that friend for you. Do you want me to post it?

Tom

In reply to Andy Hobson:

or maybe more if it's not bolted mixed!