UKC

Vertical crimpy problems in Bishop

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 TRNovice 10 Oct 2007
I was looking for any recommendations for problems with a feel like Green Wall Essential - http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/item.html?crag=1909&route=Green+Wall+E... - in the V2 - V4 range (maybe being a bit optimistic with the top of that range) in the Bishop area. I know the rock varies, but anything at the Buttermilks, Happys, Sads or Sherwin plateau would be good (didn't get on so well with Rock Creek). I'm guessing that the Buttermilks patina is going to prove the most fertile hunting ground.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

- TRN
 Chris F 10 Oct 2007
In reply to TRNovice: Jedi Mind Tricks V3. Take two pads and several spotters. Buttermilks are your best bet for crimptastic stuff. Solarium V3 at Happys is pockety, but still crimpy.
 Morgan Woods 10 Oct 2007
In reply to TRNovice:


Crimps!....they look like jugs!
 Michael Ryan 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Chris F:

Suspended In Silence V4/5 on the Pollen Grain boulder at the Pollen Grains. Again, as Chris said, two pads and several spotters.

Did you visit Secrets of the Beehive area TRNovice? Also check out the Bardini Boulders, very special indeed and lots of short crimpy walls at V1 and above.

Stunning views of the Sierra and alpine meadows at the Bardinis. Spent many a happy day up there.

Oh....classic.....Sketchpad V1 at Sherman Acres beyond the Bardinis.

Dales Camp West and East too.
 Michael Ryan 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to TRNovice)
>
>
> Crimps!....they look like jugs!

No they are crimps. In fact there is an incredibly crimpy V6 on the Green Wall boulder, adjacent to the the one TRNovice is on, that threw off several crimpmeisters.

 Morgan Woods 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

still a fantastic looking piece of rock....make me want to become a boulderer!
 Michael Ryan 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> ....make me want to become a boulderer!

You need to take the "BMC Begin Bouldering Course" held by Grimer at weekends. £150 for the two days.

Then you have to take the AMI examination.

OP TRNovice 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to TRNovice)
>
>
> Crimps!....they look like jugs!

They may look like jugs...
OP TRNovice 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Chris F:

Have JMT on the list - now V4 apparently - a bit higher that GWE when I stood under it earlier in the year!
OP TRNovice 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Thanks Mick - good to get stuff from the horse's mouth as it were. Am heading for the back of the Buttermilks at some point to look at Jedi (possibly just to look :-o) so will check out the various bee-related stuff as well .
OP TRNovice 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods)
>
> No they are crimps. In fact there is an incredibly crimpy V6 on the Green Wall boulder, adjacent to the the one TRNovice is on, that threw off several crimpmeisters.

In a fevered moment I did think about the adjacent V6 and then I realised I was getting rather carried away - next year maybe if I train hard enough (or maybe the year after!).

In reply to TRNovice:

King Tut at the Buttermilks would probably suit, but at the lowly grade of V1 and not to be missed is the Buttermilk Stem fantabulistic and no walk over.
OP TRNovice 10 Oct 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:

Had a go at King Tut in April - will go back to it. Buttermilk Stem is on the list - thanks .
OP TRNovice 10 Oct 2007
In reply to TRNovice:

While I'm on the topic, anyone else agree with the entity: -

Bishop VN = Anywhere else V(N + 1)

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