UKC

A friend of mine told me about a post in the forums somewhere ..that was asking about Drytooling locations...

Well we have one that we have been developing in North Wales and with a little assistance from a guy down south we now have 3 lines up and 1 project

the crag is called white goods.


Project D? hard
Jaz D9/+
doorstep challenge D8+/D9
left over goods D9+ ish ...

grades are a little iffy as we have not done much of this sport drytooling stuff before ....

I was thinking about placing a topo and directions here or on drytooling.co.uk

if you think its a good idea let me know..

Cheers

oh yea ...if you search the photos for "white Goods" you will find a few pics of "JAZ"

In reply to mux: i'd love to find out where it is. i live in wrexham n do something like dry tool bouldering around the old quarries in the local area that aren't used for climbing. Any chance of some directions?

In reply to WILLS:
then your dead close Wills ...its not far from ruthin ..

like I said I will do a little topo and directions etc ...maybe at the weekend and post it all somewhere

might be good to meet up also we are always looking for a few extra bods to climb with ...

In reply to mux: tidy do u do any sport climbing? We normally hang out around trevor area. Its coming into head torch sport climbing season. Its a right laugh

In reply to WILLS:
Not really, I tend to stick to the trad stuff but thats not to say that I havnt clipped a bolt or two in the past.

off to white goods tomorrow if your interested

it just off the A494 after the Pwllglas sign on the right..
the crag runs parallel to the golf course.

I can sen more detailed instruction if you want

In reply to mux: cheers but i'm working tomorrow 12 hrs. I normally do trad but with the short nights we go 4 the easy access of the clwyd limestone.
Have fun

In reply to mux:
whats the crack with the names?? I thought it was White Goods and Left Goods. Then Jaz had the thin top??

How is the project going? I hope to visit the Goods again in a couple of weeks, email me if you're about.

Rob

In reply to OrangeJ:

White good is the Crag ....

Doorstep challenge is the one with the funny toe over the pick move

Jaz is the one with the thin finish

Left over goods is your route ....


Project is going well. Did it yesterday with one fall so fingers crossed next visit will see it done.

its powerful sustained delicate and thin and not loads for your feet. Its blood fantastic you'l love it (most of the loose stuff is clear now as my buddy will lay testiment.. he came close to loosing a hand)I think its the hardest at the crag but its hard to tell till someone else climbs it.

let me know when you pop up ...might actualy get to climb with you this time ...shoulders almost back to full strength.

In reply to mux: good effort on the route - it looked desperate!!! and quality for sure. any chance of any video beta?

i will let you know when i'm visiting (to check Left Goods is still the hardest line ..... Soon i hope

In reply to OrangeJ:
I will ask my pal to dig out his video camera and try to string it all together this weekend ...

Project is now Done "Tumble in the Jungle" ...not sure of the grade ..but OrangeJ thinks its harder than Fast and Furious...So I think we will give it a Tentetive D10+/11....

whats your thoughts Rob ?

In reply to mux:

Tried the new route and (eventually!) did all of the moves to below the final roof and I'm hoping the final section is easier. It's a very good route and hard. I think you are correct to raise the grade from 9!!!! somewhere around 10 is likely, I'll let you know after i've actually climbed it..... (cheers for the belay Jerry)

I felt it was technically harder with thinner holds than 'f+f' (though this might be due to the different amounts of traffic that the routes have seen) but 'the Jungle' is probably a bit less physical.

There must be someone else in the UK who is able to do this route and propose a grade ????

I only managed the first four moves on Jaz, it was a wakeup call for a chalk tooler used to deep drilled holds. several of the small holds blew out leaving my nerves and confidence in shreds.

I would be tempted back if there were some easier routes there, otherwise I'll be back when I've lost 5 kilos and got a a bit more muscle!

Cheers for the feed back Rob ...and dont worry Rocknroll we are looking at easier lines the right and left of the very steep section.

Good Idea Rob ^

Open invite ..will someone who knows what they are doing please come and tell us whats what grade wise..

crag details in data base

In reply to mux:

Why do you not drop Scott a line at Extreme Dream? If not him then I'm sure there's someone else there who'd be able to do it.

Bill

In reply to mux:

I can't wait to drag myself up to some of those rutes. Hopefully some time soon.. But thanks for uploading the topos

Ramon