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NEW ARTICLE: Letter From James Pearson

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 Michael Ryan 30 Nov 2007
James Pearson, 21, aka Keen Youth, (The Promise E10 at Burbage North and three Font 8b flashes) sends us a report of a two week bouldering trip to Ticino in Switzerland.

Hello,

Hope all is well. I've just returned from a two week trip to Ticino in Switzerland and thought I would send you a little bit of info on what I got up to......


Read more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=676
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Are those Donkey marks really necesary, a real eeore(eyesore!), when are people going to realise this grafiti is eco vandalism and totally unaceptable, the thing is the tick marks are more often than not left by these lazy Kevin the teenagers!

You can certainly see why access is becoming a problem in these sensitive areas.
 BelleVedere 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
> this grafiti is eco vandalism and totally unaceptable



on the scale of eco-vandalism i don't think some removable chalk really counts - yeah it doesn't look pretty, but lets face it a flight to Switzerland is alot more damaging...
In reply to Conquistador of the usless: From the photos it should be called Tickino!
In reply to es:

True but very visually offensive, certainly to locals and visitors alike akin to urban grafiti, no traces should be left in these unspoilt places. Shows a total lack of respect for the environment.

You are right about the hipocrisy of flying to dick around on boulders in this day and age !!??
In reply to Richard Bradley:

You bet.
 mark s 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless: who gives a toss,its a bit of chalk.


nice one james
In reply to mark s:

Ahh climbers so sensitive to all things environmental, cut down a tree here, pull out rare flora there, not to mention the little critters and raptors, well as long as we get to climb rocks in the end eh!!
 JLS 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:

The only environmentally friendly human is a dead one. When is your funeral?
In reply to JLS:

Ah yes. The argument goes like this.

1. We can't be perfect.

2. Therefore it doesn't matter what we do.

It does make you wonder about this notion that we have superior reasoning power to the apes, doesn't it?

On the main theme, I am out of date. How common is flashing Font 8b? I would have thought very uncommon indeed - how many people have done more than one?

jcm
 abarro81 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:
> (In reply to es)
> You are right about the hipocrisy of flying to dick around on boulders in this day and age !!??

would it have been ok if he was flying to dick around on routes in ceuse or yosemite?

 abarro81 30 Nov 2007
In reply to abarro81:
p.s. nice work james, seriously impressive stuff!
 tony 30 Nov 2007
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
>
> On the main theme, I am out of date. How common is flashing Font 8b? I would have thought very uncommon indeed - how many people have done more than one?
>
A quick look at 8a.nu would suggests it is very uncommon. Even the likes of Dai Koyamada, Dani Andrada and Dave Graham haven't done it.
In reply to abarro81:

In my defence, in the past i have hitched to the south of France regularily, perfectly feesable. Yosemite is a little more problematical, but certainly no more justifiable than bouldering in Ticino.

But i guess the luxury of these destructive Hedonistic lifestyles is not going to be around for much longer, it's just not sustainable.

We must change our ways!
 Alun 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:

> In my defence, in the past i have hitched to the south of France regularily, perfectly feesable

Presumably you used roads when you hitch hiked? Walked along any paths when you were there? Stayed in any buildings?

Compared to all of these things, a few tick marks are drops in the ocean. Even the path to these boulders represents greater damage to the environment, and a greater eyesore. And how do you know the marks weren't washed off afterwards?

So did you just come on to UKC to have a pointless whinge, demonstrate your ignorance of other aspects of the climbing game, or belittle the achievements of one of Britain's (and the world's) best climbers? Either way, well done, you've done all three.
In reply to Alun:

I didn't say we should go back to hunter gathering or living in caves, it's all about facing up to your own responsibilities, your actions do have cause and effect, unsightly chalk left on what otherwise would be a pristine piece of geology is the tip of the iceberg when we are talking about enviromental damage, it is every thing else that goes with it.

Climbers are destructive period.

 Niall Grimes 30 Nov 2007
Nice article, James, and really well done. Amazing stuff.

And to people such as Conquistadors of the Useless, Es and Richard Bradley, this is one of the country's best climbers reporting on ascents that are on the cutting edge of world performance. Why do you feel the need to percieve some small chink in this report and drive a wedge of judgement into it?
 Tufas Mum 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Niall Grimes:

Because that seems to be what some people enjoy most on these forums, such a shame!

Great Work James and see you soon.

Sam Orange
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I recall James thought no-one else had flashed a font 8b when he did Great Shark Hunt (his second).

Now he's done his third. World class news!

Bob kate bob 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Niall Grimes: That's easy, They know they will never climb to such a level and don't have the same natural tallent that James has (not many people do, I definately don't).

What they are showing has a name and it's called envy. Wether they are willing to admit it is another thing though.
 slacky 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:
> (In reply to es)
>
> True but very visually offensive, certainly to locals and visitors alike akin to urban grafiti, no traces should be left in these unspoilt places. Shows a total lack of respect for the environment.

Have you been back out to Ticino to check the marks are still there? How do you substantiate your accusation of eco vandalism? For all you know they were brushed off afterwards and left unspoilt.

Sounds like someone had a very good trip away. Good effort.

fish08 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Bob kate bob: I don't think it was anything personal directed at James. Some people just can't resist making a comment if a comment is there to be made (which in most cases is fair enough really). In this case it's about unsightly tick marks. Reminds me of a clip I watched yesterday where Chris Sharma was quietly ranting about tick marks on La Rambla.

Great effort James!
 BelleVedere 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Niall Grimes:

Hey i never made a judgement!

James may not have flown for all i know- or he could have cycled to work all year and chosen to make this 1 flight (its the total that matters). I deliberately didn't make it personal, because i know nothing about his lifestyle

All i said was that chalk marks hardly rank on the scales of eco-vandalism - it was in part a defence.




In reply to Niall Grimes:
Why do you feel the need to percieve some small chink in this report and drive a wedge of judgement into it?

Because the first thing you see when opening the story is the plethora of tick marks on the first photo? An obvious and crap play on the name sprung to mind.
 Simon 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Richard Bradley:
> (In reply to Niall Grimes)

>
> Because the first thing you see when opening the story is the plethora of tick marks on the first photo? An obvious and crap play on the name sprung to mind.


You never know - he may have even cleaned them off after...

I've seen worse at Burbage south - its sad - but a bit of cleaning works wonders...

Effort Keenus, seriously impressive stuff!

Si
In reply to Simon: He also may not have put them there in the first place. I'm sure he couldn't care less what I thingk in any event!
In reply to Niall Grimes:

Why do you feel the need to percieve some small chink in this report and drive a wedge of judgement into it?

Surely there are a number of rather obvious replies to this? If you think behaviour x is a Bad Thing, then stopping elite climbers indulging in it is more important than stopping any other climbers (bad example, trickles down, etc), and there is no better moment to raise the subject than when some achievement or other has the momentary attention of the unwashed masses. I don't see that envy comes into it. Indeed a more fruitful field for psychoanalysis would be why do many feel the urge to cyber-congratulate total strangers. No-one emails Steven Gerrard and congrautlates him on his freekick at the weekend (or do they?!)

jcm
 billb 30 Nov 2007
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Niall Grimes)
No-one emails Steven Gerrard and congrautlates him on his freekick at the weekend (or do they?!)
>
> jcm

No - they shout "go on my son" to the TV screen in the hope that he may hear.
 krank 30 Nov 2007
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Nope, Mr Gerrard never gets any fan mail.
 galpinos 30 Nov 2007
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I'm stuggling to get my head round how hard these problems must be.

To flash 8b and onsight 8a+ is pretty incredible. What's the hardest staright up problem (not including those 37 move roof things like Akira etc.)? 8b+, 8c?

Are people normally flashing stuff 1/2 grades below the max?
 Offwidth 30 Nov 2007
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I did and got a snotty letter from Mr Gerrard's solictor about stalking (whatever that is).

The chalk mark comments are missing the point by so far they remind me of the famous excuses in hitchikers guide for not inventing the wheel yet.

Also what is wrong with congratulating significant acheivement in a field we love? I'd say the psychoanalysis is required for people who would worry about those doing this as its a natural human response.
 Niall Grimes 30 Nov 2007
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Because for one, James seems like someone, from what i know of him, who does care about things like this. If you look you will see that this is a problem that he flashed. Tick marks are generally put on by people sessioning problems. I can't say for sure that he didn't obviously, but it is what i would imagine.

And because, within the first 8 replies, someone was, with a very small jump in logic, implying he was a hypocrite and guilty of destroying vegetation and fauna for selfish ends, in a tone of self-righteousness that would make your hair stand on end.

But mainly because of this. James has just flashed his 3rd 8b. This is amazing stuff. He writes an modest report about it, and for some reason people who see something which offends them, decide that he is guilty of this, and start to pontificate. And because this sort of crap does have an impact on people. Richard Bradley, I would disagree. I'd say he does care what you think. And i would imagine that your jibe would have an effect. And Es, imagine how you would feel if after doing the Cuillin, all people mention is that you must have wasted a load of petrol to do that, and I hope you're glad that you kill africans. Ridiculous, I know, but go and read some responses to things.

And sorry, to the three I mentioned, I'm not really having a go. But I just think I know the effect your responses have, and I didn't think they were very fair.
In reply to Niall Grimes:

Yes, I agree, JP can't possibly have put them there himself. But I don't think people were suggesting he did, were they?

jcm
In reply to Niall Grimes: Yep, I'm sure James will seek me out at a crag somewhere to remonstrate. I will be the punter with the grey hair.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I think, on my part at least, Niall missed an attempt at an admittedly very poor joke.
 Jenn 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Niall Grimes:

I agree completely.

Well done James! Your achievements are truly inspirational.

Of course, remember though chalk tick marks are just one step away from committing acts of genocide... and let's not even mention your carbon footprint

I have this theory that because it rains so much in the UK, people get bitter and twisted and bored to death. They need to amuse themselves somehow, hence the popularity of whinging on UKC.
In reply to Jenn: Stop whinging Jenn.










 Offwidth 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Jenn:

Maybe we should start a 'psychopathically happy society' as I do so love my climbing and can't help but enjoy people's acheivements: small and especially large.
 Jenn 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Richard Bradley:

Bite me





In reply to Jenn:

It may not concern an American wall rat! but i can assure you it is a real problem in the great outdoors, remember Hueco.

There have already been access issues in this area, boulderers lost access to Chirinico not to distant, by shiting below boulders lighting fires etc and generally showing no respect for someone elses property.

Your theory is incorrect, i am not in the slightest bit bitter or twisted, did i implying James did anything, i am merely pointing out bad practice, i care about the actions of fellow climbers and how it affects us all.

Trivial to you, but to a landowner or nature lover vandalism.
 Jenn 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Offwidth:

Agreed
 Niall Grimes 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:

Bite me
 Jenn 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:
> (In reply to Jenn)
>
> It may not concern an American wall rat!
I'm a dual citizen wall rat actually...

>
> There have already been access issues in this area, boulderers lost access to Chirinico not to distant, by shiting below boulders lighting fires etc and generally showing no respect for someone elses property.
>
All true - but is this the place to go on about it. Why not start another thread.

From the UKC posting guidelines:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/info/guidelines.html

"Please don't 'hijack' topics - Try to stay on a topic, and don't turn (for example) a light-hearted thread into a serious discussion, or spoil a good climbing discussion with lots of light-hearted nonsense. If you want to discuss something different, then start a new topic yourself."

> Your theory is incorrect, i am not in the slightest bit bitter or twisted,

However you fail to take a joke - thereby proving my point!

> Trivial to you, but to a landowner or nature lover vandalism.

How do you know if I own land or not or am a nature lover?
In reply to Jenn:

I was the first person to comment on the link, the tick marks is well bad!

Have a nice day
 TRNovice 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:
> (In reply to Jenn)
>
> It may not concern an American wall rat!

Good to see some well-reasoned and logical debate on here for a change, makes a change from the normal ignorant mud-slinging. BTW have you considered the environmental impact of the electricity you are wasting by posting on UKC?

Returning to the subject of the thread; congratulations James, while the vast majority of us couldn't conceive of climbing that hard, I'm sure that hearing about what is possible inspires us to pull just a bit harder on our latest Font 4+ "project".

Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts with general punterdom. A shame that your achievements are detracted from by some of the comments on here.
 Jenn 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless:

That's deliberately missing the point. The thread was started by Mr Ryan in an attempt to highlight the achievements of Mr Pearson. You did not start the thread, however, you decided to de-rail it. That does not give you the ability to claim it as your own.
In reply to Jenn: he has demonstrated the abilty, maybe not the right.
 Niall Grimes 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Princess Diana: Now that's the sort of reasoning that brightens up my Friday afternoons
Princess Diana 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Niall Grimes:
I thought it was quite a well thought out reasoned and proportionate response.
 galpinos 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Niall Grimes:

Only on UKC can a thread on one of some the hardest flashed/onsighted bouldering ever degenerate into this kind of slagging match.
 Niall Grimes 30 Nov 2007
In reply to galpinos: Love to everyone. I'm just off to point my flux capacitor at the year 2089.
In reply to galpinos:

Precisely.

James has flashed three font 8b's.
 Mick Ward 30 Nov 2007
In reply to galpinos:

'Fraid so. Sad really.

Mick
 galpinos 30 Nov 2007
In reply to S i'm on & on:

Not only the 8b flashes but onsight 8a+!

(How's life by the way? It's Nick Galpin)
 mark s 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
its a f*cking joke at times this site.
proper world class news about an amazing achievment from james and some people still moan about something

bottom line is,well done mate,keep up the good work

(hope the kids arnt too much a pain in the ass)
 sutty 30 Nov 2007
In reply to mark s:

Well Mark, just clicked on this and read the article and routes he has done and thing he may be climbing rather well.

Doing some of those hard routes is enough for me, the bouldering does leave me cold but the lad must be doing something right.

Decided not to read the rest of the thread if there is a lot of carping, the article and achievements are good enough for me.

I would like to know what these lads eat to get that strong though, make popeye seem a weakling.
 Enty 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Princess Diana:
> (In reply to Conquistador of the usless) you sound like you need to get you're cock out your arse so to speak...

Good post. Now back on to James' awesome achievements.

The Ent ™

 mark s 30 Nov 2007
In reply to sutty: ive worked with him for a week and he only eats good stuff,put me to shame.know where i'm going wrong now.
 jas wood 30 Nov 2007
In reply to Conquistador of the usless: you are assuming of course that he left the area as you see it in the pictures!

bit ott but he was trying to flash a stick hard route and it really it isn,t offensive is it ?

well done that man
OP Michael Ryan 30 Nov 2007
In reply to mark s:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)

> its a f*cking joke at times this site.

Uh, excuse me. Who published Jame's report? This site thank you very much. And thank you James.

I do warn those operating at the elite level that when we do news reports or an article about them it is always linked to a forum thread where anyone can have their say, and that along with praise there may be criticism. I feel this is a lot better situation than having no right of reply or comment. In fact in this new media this is part of what makes it interesting. These newsworthy climbers are getting used to the comments, and are prepared to take the rough with the smooth.

Some, don't like this; some prefer the unexamined glory of a magazine article, news report or photograph.

Whatever anyone says, criticism does not take away from the fantastic achievements of James, Lucy, the Daves et al..

There's nothing quite like an examined life especially when you get feedback from your peers in the climbing community. In past the news was static, late, and unexamined.....SO EXAMINE AWAY

Threads always go off tangent, have you not noticed!

And remember this site gets thousands of visit each day, this site, not just the forums. The majority prefer not to comment. The minority that do always seem to have something to say......but it is they that are saying it, not this site. This site is mearly a vehicle for diverse opinions. So label if you like but you will be way off the (chalk) mark.


> proper world class news about an amazing achievment from james

Excactly. World class...........and yes over-chalking can be a problem, a problem that is ours to solve.

Mick
Mini 30 Nov 2007
In reply to mark s:
> (In reply to sutty) ive worked with him for a week and he only eats good stuff,put me to shame.know where i'm going wrong now.

To be fair anythings gotta be better than fish finger butties!!!
 Bulls Crack 01 Dec 2007
In reply to S i'm on & on:
> (In reply to galpinos)
>
> Precisely.
>
> James has flashed three font 8b's.

In the wet too - no condition excuses there
 Simon 01 Dec 2007
In reply to mark s:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
> its a f*cking joke at times this site.
> proper world class news about an amazing achievment from james and some people still moan about something
>
>

its scary - why do we look for the Beautifull South when we should be going for Marillion?

;0)

nite
 AlisonS 01 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Great to see someone so young and so committed. It's a fine achievement. It's good to see things like this published. His infectious enthusiasm may well inspire others.
 Simon 01 Dec 2007
In reply to Niall Grimes:


The other night I had a dream you nicked my chicken & mushroom pot noodle off me -

You owe me 56p fella!

;0)
 mark s 01 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: when i said this site, i was refering to some of the people on here.they would pick fault at anyone/thing.
OP Michael Ryan 01 Dec 2007
In reply to mark s:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) when i said this site, i was refering to some of the people on here.they would pick fault at anyone/thing.

In future try and be specific.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:to be shirley?
 Simon 02 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

...and yes over-chalking can be a problem, a problem that is ours to solve.
>
>

..its a problem we create - therefore its obvious one we should resolve - but we don't...

We all like throwing one on a problem - but who spends the time after cleaning?

I would like to think I do - but I hold my hand up & say not always..

si

OP Michael Ryan 02 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> ...and yes over-chalking can be a problem, a problem that is ours to solve.
> [...]
>
> ..its a problem we create - therefore its obvious one we should resolve - but we don't...

The obvious always needs spelling out. Like most humans climbers also hide their heads in the sand from the problems they create. Thinking it someone elses reponsibility as your statement clearly proves.

> I would like to think I do - but I hold my hand up & say not always..

> but who spends the time after cleaning?

I do and so do others.

Make it a habit Simon. After chalking a problem, gently clean away your tell tale signs of passage, and those of others.

Mick








 Simon 02 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:


I know we should Mick, its not that I'm unaware of the need to brush, I guess I'm just holding my hand up and saying sometimes I'm a lazy arse for not brushing EVERY hold after EVERY boulder problem I ever do.

Must try harder...

I think the rocks getting a power wash at the moment though!

si
 Ropeboy 02 Dec 2007
In reply to mark s:
> (In reply to sutty) ive worked with him for a week and he only eats good stuff,put me to shame.know where i'm going wrong now.

An interesting insight into a world class climber. Also reading the article he refers to the body tension req'd to hold the move. It shows that there is a bit more to hard climbing than you'd imagine.

J
 Adam Lincoln 03 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

People, stop whinging....

Good luck in America James.
 Glyn Jones 03 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Well done James.


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