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Topic - Training articles on the web - links

shark - on 06 Dec 2007
With the onset of the indoor season I thought it might be timely to compile a list of linked articles on physical training from the web to try and make some order of the bewildering amount of free material out there.

The articles I found are listed and grouped by the authors I recognised (Adrian Berry, Dave Binney, John Gill, Neil Gresham, Eric Horst, Dave MacLeod, Steve McClure, Ben Moon, Audry Morrison and Marius Morstad) followed by a Lucky Dip section.

I can add any other links to other useful articles/material/sites at the end of the thread for a more comprehensive list.

Adrian Berry (Coach)
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1724
Time to Train
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=373
5 things you can do at the climbing wall to improve your outdoor leading

Dave Binney (Scientist)
http://climbing.timeoutdoors.com/Training/3CLMDBY01100302E.htm
Unfortunately still in development but will include: Self assessment, Warming up, Training methods, Interval training, Circuit training, Resistance training, Endurance, Strength, Strength endurance, Cardio work, Flexibility, Training plans

His papers are linked here:

http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/html2/resources.shtml
Competitive Rock Climbers: Phyliological & Anthropometric Attributes
Blood Lactate Response to Forearm Specific Exercise in Rock Climbers
Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance

Neil Gresham (Coach)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=374
5 Things you can do to improve your bouldering

http://www.planetfear.com/search_articles.asp?at_id=24
Training Juniors 1
Training Juniors 2
Warming Up
Working Weaknesses
http://www.planetfear.com/search_articles.asp?page=4&orderby=&f=&c=&at_id=8
Self Coaching
Resting
Learning From Other Sports
Cross Training
Arm Movements
Isolation Training
Weight Training
System Training
Bouldering for Strength
Advanced Bouldering Exercises
Campus Boarding
Finger Boarding
Finger Strength Training
SACC Training
Interval Training
Endurance Training
Competition Training
Mixed Climbing Training
Winter Climbing Training
Mid-Season Top-Up
Using a Climbing Wall to Stay Fit

Eric Horst (Author of Training for Climbing )
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/new/articles.shtml
Training in Accordance to the "SAID" Principle
Three Cornerstone Principles of Effective Training
An Overview of Power & Strength Training
How To Increase "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!
Is Climbing the Best Training for Climbing
High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
Bouldering as Training for Climbing
Hypergravity Isolation Training for Max Grip Strength
HIT Workout Details for Maximum Grip Strength
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 1
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 2
Effective Fingerboard Training - Part 1
Training the Core Muscles
Eastern Bloc Training: Heavy Finger Rolls
Training at the Crags
Effective Pull-up Training
Developing "Limit" Strength
Low-Risk Campus Training for Power & Grip Strength - Part 1
Campus Training for Strength & Power - Part 2
Best of "Pump Rock" Training
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 1
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 2
Complex Training
The Benefits of Pilates for Climbers
Physioball Exercises for Your Core
Research: The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Pilates Training for Climbers

Dave MacLeod (Coach)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=317
Dave MacLeod Answers Your Training Questions - Part One
http://www.davemacleod.com/articles.htm
Principles of training
Rough guide to physical training for rock climbing
Learning technique
Some basics of climbing research
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com
Young Climbers
Home Training
Translating strength
Recruitment
Energy cycles

Steve McClure (Route setter)
http://www.8a.nu/site2/
Power Endurance - McClure

Ben Moon (Climbing equipment supplier)
http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,0,4,0,training.html
Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon
http://www.moonclimbing.com/SchoolRoom.aspx
10 Ways to revamp your climbing
Principles of planning your climbing year
The 3 training phases for climbing
Using a training diary
Endurance Training
Core body the missing link
Introduction to Training
Training Questionaire
Training and Goal Setting
Power Training
Training Plan
Warming Up
Warming Down
Flexibility and Stretching Intro
Stretches Lower Body
Stretches Upper Body
Campus Boarding
Fingerboard
Fingerboard Training Plan
Bouldering Training
Systems Training
Systems Training Plan

Audry Morrison (Scientist)
http://bjsm.bmj.com/cgi/content/abstract/bjsm.2006.034827v1?maxtoshow=&HITS=10&hits=10&R...

Review of the physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers abstract of paper

Marius Morstad (Coach)
http://stonemonkey.dk/artikler/marius_morstad_ote/training_endurance_part1.pdf
http://stonemonkey.dk/artikler/marius_morstad_ote/training_strength_part2.pdf
Training Strength

Lucky Dip

http://www.8a.nu/site2/
Recruitment finger training
Short cuts to 8a
Lactid acid
DYNOING - A ballastic science: Fly, baby fly?
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms
Power Endurance - McClure
Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus
Static vs. dynamic technique
Pump and how to avoid it
Specific finger position training

http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,0,4,0,training.html
Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon/Lynn Hill/Francois Legrand/Josune Bereziartu/John Gill
Better Bouldering: Master's Advice

http://www.mikedoyle.ca/climbing/coachingdoc.pdf
pdf download: Training Manual for Competition Climbing

http://www.bodyresults.com/S1Climb.asp
Upper Body Training Favorites: Preparing for Rock Climbing
Alpine Core Training Beyond The Floor
Yoga and Climbing: Injury Prevention or Causation?
Climbing Technique: Gym Drills
Lofty Ambitions: How to Select Your Next Goal
Climbing, Pregnancy, and Exercise: A Reality Check
Evaluate your climbing training program
Climbing Conditioning Essentials
How to improve your pullups, even if you can't do any
More pullup training tips
The Alpine warmup
Train the triceps for climbing
Keep your upper back muscles well-balanced
Train for the Mountains when you're not in the Mountains

http://www.planetfear.com/search_articles.asp?at_id=8
Core Stability - an introduction

www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/training/
Rock Climbing Training - Strength
Rock Climbing Training - Burst or Explosive Power
Rock Climbing Training - Endurance
Rock Climbing Training - Strength and Endurance

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto.htm
Use A Fingerboard
Pure Force Training
Rock Ring Training
10 Minute Sequence
Advanced Training
Advanced Training

http://www.jollypower.com/jollyhomeI.htm (Italian site)
Power
Strength
Endurance
Technique and flow
Intensity
Recovery
Dynos
Plyometric training

http://www.climbingwalls.net/performance.htm
Performance training

http://www.climbing.com.au/science/science.php
Collection of science articles

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