/ Training articles on the web - links
The articles I found are listed and grouped by the authors I recognised (Adrian Berry, Dave Binney, John Gill, Neil Gresham, Eric Horst, Dave MacLeod, Steve McClure, Ben Moon, Audry Morrison and Marius Morstad) followed by a Lucky Dip section.
I can add any other links to other useful articles/material/sites at the end of the thread for a more comprehensive list.
Adrian Berry (Coach)
Time to Train
5 things you can do at the climbing wall to improve your outdoor leading
Dave Binney (Scientist)
Unfortunately still in development but will include: Self assessment, Warming up, Training methods, Interval training, Circuit training, Resistance training, Endurance, Strength, Strength endurance, Cardio work, Flexibility, Training plans
His papers are linked here:
Competitive Rock Climbers: Phyliological & Anthropometric Attributes
Blood Lactate Response to Forearm Specific Exercise in Rock Climbers
Rock Climbing Trajectory: A Global Variable of Rock Climbing Performance
Neil Gresham (Coach)
5 Things you can do to improve your bouldering
Training Juniors 1
Training Juniors 2
Learning From Other Sports
Bouldering for Strength
Advanced Bouldering Exercises
Finger Strength Training
Mixed Climbing Training
Winter Climbing Training
Using a Climbing Wall to Stay Fit
Eric Horst (Author of Training for Climbing )
Training in Accordance to the "SAID" Principle
Three Cornerstone Principles of Effective Training
An Overview of Power & Strength Training
How To Increase "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!
Is Climbing the Best Training for Climbing
High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
Bouldering as Training for Climbing
Hypergravity Isolation Training for Max Grip Strength
HIT Workout Details for Maximum Grip Strength
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 1
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 2
Effective Fingerboard Training - Part 1
Training the Core Muscles
Eastern Bloc Training: Heavy Finger Rolls
Training at the Crags
Effective Pull-up Training
Developing "Limit" Strength
Low-Risk Campus Training for Power & Grip Strength - Part 1
Campus Training for Strength & Power - Part 2
Best of "Pump Rock" Training
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 1
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 2
The Benefits of Pilates for Climbers
Physioball Exercises for Your Core
Research: The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Pilates Training for Climbers
Dave MacLeod (Coach)
Dave MacLeod Answers Your Training Questions - Part One
Principles of training
Rough guide to physical training for rock climbing
Some basics of climbing research
Steve McClure (Route setter)
Power Endurance - McClure
Ben Moon (Climbing equipment supplier)
Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon
10 Ways to revamp your climbing
Principles of planning your climbing year
The 3 training phases for climbing
Using a training diary
Core body – the missing link
Introduction to Training
Training and Goal Setting
Flexibility and Stretching Intro
Stretches Lower Body
Stretches Upper Body
Fingerboard Training Plan
Systems Training Plan
Audry Morrison (Scientist)
Review of the physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers – abstract of paper
Marius Morstad (Coach)
Recruitment finger training
Short cuts to 8a
DYNOING - A ballastic science: Fly, baby fly?
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms
Power Endurance - McClure
Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus
Static vs. dynamic technique
Pump and how to avoid it
Specific finger position training
Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon/Lynn Hill/Francois Legrand/Josune Bereziartu/John Gill
Better Bouldering: Master's Advice
pdf download: Training Manual for Competition Climbing
Upper Body Training Favorites: Preparing for Rock Climbing
Alpine Core Training Beyond The Floor
Yoga and Climbing: Injury Prevention or Causation?
Climbing Technique: Gym Drills
Lofty Ambitions: How to Select Your Next Goal
Climbing, Pregnancy, and Exercise: A Reality Check
Evaluate your climbing training program
Climbing Conditioning Essentials
How to improve your pullups, even if you can't do any
More pullup training tips
The Alpine warmup
Train the triceps for climbing
Keep your upper back muscles well-balanced
Train for the Mountains when you're not in the Mountains
Core Stability - an introduction
Rock Climbing Training - Strength
Rock Climbing Training - Burst or Explosive Power
Rock Climbing Training - Endurance
Rock Climbing Training - Strength and Endurance
Use A Fingerboard
Pure Force Training
Rock Ring Training
10 Minute Sequence
http://www.jollypower.com/jollyhomeI.htm (Italian site)
Technique and flow
Collection of science articles
brilliant - another excuse to not actually do any training cos i'm still researching my training schedule :0)
Seriously though cheers for that it'll make for some good browsing on the dark winter nights.
Ace - that's got to be the best/most useful post of 2007! Thanks!
Can we put that in a permanent article at UKC Simon? Top job.
Well; quite frankly it should be upgraded to an article.
And while I'm at it; I think articles should be subdivided into transient (e.g. "my first lead") and reference; such as this one and the one on cleaning ropes.
Aha! You are on the case. Good man! (being my usual patronising self and all that....)
Most certainly a FAQ. Permanent like you say Alison.
mega. if ukc had karma points you'd have got shed loads for that! ta
Excellent, cheers Simon.
Excellent work. Have seen most of those but it's very useful to have them all in one place.
In passing: I just stumbled over a nice typo at the Moon site .. or is it a typo?
The calves are probably one of the most used leg muscles in climbing, especially in slab climbing since a lot of your body weight is transferred through this muscle. To help prevent stiffness and muscle cramps when on long and difficult slab climbs it is important to stay subtle in this area.
Longer than I thought it would.
It might be useful to have a separate Science research section. There is an extensive list of research papers listed at the end of Dave MacLeods article 'Some basics of climbing research'. I cant seem to paste it (if anyone else can please do) but the link to the list of referenced work is here:
A great collection of articles Simon! Some I've seen before and some I haven't. My question is which is the best advice to follow?
Based upon the UKC Fit Club being 38 weeks old it would be interesting to know who's improving most and what training methods they've adopted if any, and thus my question above could be answered by the UKC population.
Keep up the good work
I'd recommend training like a beast on a systems board in your garage Mark. :)
As with much else in life it is far better to gain understanding than slavishly follow others advice - ultimately you are your own best adviser as you are most motivated to serve your personal interests.
If you approach it clinically - start with clearly identifying what you want to get out of training ie specific goals or general fitness. Ascertain where you are up to in your development and those areas you have to develop. Work out how much time, motivation and resources you have. Read around the subject and work out what sort of training will be best for you and incorporate it into some sort of plan.
Training isnt for everybody.
I agree, although seeing trends in training for climbing methodologies is of interest as there have been numerous developments over the years.
Personally speaking I've seen the most benefit recently through systems training on a 45 degree board.
Thanks for the words of wisdom
For power endurance training/shorter sport routes systems boards are the business. I have a homemade systems/HIT board in a shed replete with 40lb weight vest. I should do more of it if I was more dedicated but its not much fun and freezing in the shed at the moment.
On second thoughts I will do a session shortly to make up for comfort climbing at the Foundry last night.
Info and videos on system training:
The excellent 'Rough guide to training for rock climbing'by Dave MacLeod is a deadlink if you click on the list of articles but can still be accessed on http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/roughtrainingguide.html
Nice collection of articles, you can check my website www.marvinclimbing.com, with some training articles and exercises
Not an article but a long and seemingly well-informed thread based around climbing with weight belts/weight vests as championed by Horst's hypergravity training and debunked by 'aerili'.
(I would credit Serpico with linking this thread but he was moonlighting on UKB)
Not sure if you are interested - but I found these to be helpful:
Working the Antagonists
Rockclimbing.com Training Article - The Making of a 'Rockprodigy'
What a fantastic post, will spend some time (many hours) reviewing and planning when I get a minute!
How do you know it's not UKC that I moonlight on?
Anyway if we're posting threads here's another (mostly) excellent one that'll kill a few hours for you:
I thought ARC training was the most boring thing in the world - but reading about it is even worse.
> I thought ARC training was the most boring thing in the world - but reading about it is even worse.
Blasphemer! And you think you know somebody...
Anyway,I've just read it again, only took me an hour, and was well worth revisiting old ground.
I'll be testing you on it next time I see you.
Hey - Ive lost 5lbs in the last 2 weeks !
The diet one appears to be a better written up post by 'stow' on thread from rockclimbing.com. I regularly paste the transcript on dieting threads as they crop up but can now paste that link instead.
Re your earlier blasphemer comment - it made me realise that my relationship with training is more hate than love compounded by lacking useful traits like self-discipline, patience, studiuosness...I could go on
Keep the links coming
Eat yourself better:
Planetfear's website has gone down along with its archive of articles which tragically includes Neil Gresham's comprehensive range of excellent training articles.
Neil has posted some info on periodisation on his own website. I hope he adds the training articles in due course.
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