/ EXCLUSIVE: Last Great Chimney on Ben Nevis, WI 10 X

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Michael Ryan - on 14 Feb 2008
From an icy Keene Valley in upstate New York's Adirondack mountains I am pleased to announce:

Last month UKClimbing.com brought you EXCLUSIVE reportage: words, images and video of THE KNOW-HOW” XXII 17 on Ben McNaughty climbed by Chamonix based toolers Nick Keegan, Esmeralda and LL Cool J

One commentator who now wants to remain anonymous said about the Know-How:

"Once in a while in sport, the bar is significantly raised. These events are rare, but this is such a moment."

The Know-How got a fast repeat by a raiding Scottish team consisting of Guy God, Doctor Doolittle and English boy Ian Haribo. They confirmed the overall quality of the route but said the grade was way out.

However, standards don't stay still for long these days and it seems the bar (and the glass) has been raised again in World Winter Climbing.


UKClimbing.com brings you another exclusive report of a significant winter ascent

The Last Great Chimney on Ben Nevis, Font WI 10 X
by Marshall Gaz, Roberta Jinglestop, With thanks to Fairy Wife and the Turnipmaker

Full report: video, pics, and words here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=825

We await the response from Pent-up Fool, leader of the Chamonix based the Alpha Chambre Neuf sponsored hero team.
johncoxmysteriously - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Are we going to have this same joke monthly now, Mick, or what?

jcm
Alex Roddie - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
It wasn't funny the first time, but this is bordering on an insult to humour.
petellis - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Not more of this bollocks. It was neither funny nor original the first time round, now we have to put up with more of this drivel.
Michael Ryan - on 14 Feb 2008
Dudes, lighten up will you.

John you get back to your discussion about pissing dogs.

This is but one feature at UKC that we have recently published. It all adds to the great mix of content we have at UKClimbing.com.

Flurry of winter desperates from Guy Robertson
by Jack Geldard

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=827

Alpine Reminiscence 2007
by Nick Bullock

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=765


Vallee Blanche Full Moon Descent
by Jon Griffith

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=820

UK Bouldering 2007: The UK's Best Boulderers
by Tom Dixon

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=792

I Want That Job! - Maurizio Oviglia, International Climbing Journalist
by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=805

UK Trad 2007
by Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=797

UK Sport Climbing 2007
by Stuart Littlefai

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=771

123 My First Outdoor Lead Essays.

And our news page, the most popular climbing news page in the World.

And we are only just getting into our stride. Hell of a lot more coming up across the full range of the climbing and mountaineering experience from both the well-known and the not well known.

Excuse this brief willy waiving.

Please carry on with your critique as is your right. But also consider that we all have different sense of humours, some will hate this, some indifferent, some will love it. And only a select few will comment.

Mick
Alex Roddie - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
> Excuse this brief willy waiving.
>
> Please carry on with your critique as is your right. But also consider that we all have different sense of humours, some will hate this, some indifferent, some will love it. And only a select few will comment.

Mick, a lot of the recent articles and news stories posted on here have been excellent, informative and enjoyable, but that doesn't change the fact that only a disabled shrimp would find this amusing. Sorry.

I'm sure a few people out there will find it hilarious, but for the vast majority I think it's safe to say that this is actually painful to read.
Caralynh - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

If you're going by "lack of comments = acceptance / approval", then add me to the "hate it" list. It's not funny and is totally pointless.
The rest of the articles you link to are fine = varied topics and styles, different authors, mixture of news, reviews and items of interest. But to lob a badly written spoof article into the mix just lowers the standard of the news pages as a whole. (Especially when you have to click on the article to find it IS a spoof)
Doug on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Alex Roddie:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
> [...]
>
> Mick,

> I'm sure a few people out there will find it hilarious, but for the vast majority I think it's safe to say that this is actually painful to read.

Agreed, at least its not on the winter climber forum

Michael Ryan - on 14 Feb 2008


Keep the comments coming.
CJD - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:


the Articles are now pretty much ace, (hurrah for Jack's arrival!) except for the predecessor to this one, which was almost universally panned. Good on you for flying in the face of public demand and posting them anyway. Actually, now I come to think of it, there's a lot of greatness that's been heavily criticised in its lifetime. I reckon in 100 years these are going to be published in weighty tomes of mountaineering literature. Er...

:-)

but yes, just to add - I'm enjoying a lot of the articles but I think that in a 'humourous' vein UKC has published some much better stuff, and I hope it'll continue to do so in future - just not things that are in the style of this article and its predecessor..

Michael Ryan - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to CJD:

From many people's perspective these two spoof articles do provide an insight into those operating at the highest levels of winter climbing and climbing in general. You do need a bit of insider knowledge however and their appeal will not be universal.

There is much competition, especially amongst alpinists, for ascents, news coverage, sponsorship and recognition (Cerro Torre comes to mind). My achievement is more news worthy than your achievement, ....My dads better than your dad type of thing. The top performers in many fields, entertainment, sport, the arts often take pot shots at each other. Driven egos that motivate the top dogs to do what they do also make them fiercely competitive, often it is not stated in public but is whispered. So there is an important sub-text here.

For good or for bad we published "NEW ROUTE “THE KNOW-HOW” XXII 17 on Ben McNaughty
by Roberta Jinglestop from Lowland Ramblers", which was a swipe at the ascent, the grade and news coverage of The Secret. See Rob's post below.

Those on the receiving end now have had their right of reply, enjoy it or not.

Rob Jarvis on - 22 Jan 2008 - www.highlandguides.com
In reply to Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor:


Cast your mind back to early December.

The faithful are dusting off their tools in keen anticipation of the Scottish Winter. Surely it will be a good one this year. Wait and see….

And then…..BANG! Like a ptarmigan rising from the snow capped hills of the Highlands….Sam Loveday’s iconic photo…..What’s this? THAT line on The Ben has been climbed.

WOW!

BY WHO?

WHAT STYLE?

We want NEWS. We want photos. We want video. And we don’t want them in a few months time, when the magazines come out. We want them now.

And we got them.

So how did we come to THIS….?

Oh dear UKC. You were (rightly) quick to jump on Simon Richardson’s words and slap them into a news article covering one of the most inspiring ascents in the British climbing year. Yet only a few weeks later folk logging on for the latest news in the mountaineering world are subject to this sponsored terminally tedious trivia.

Of course, taking the piss is a great part of the British climbing scene and legends have evolved around it. Whillans, McNaught-Davis, Rouse….not to mention most of your mates….All as quick with a one line put down as a swift layback. But, as many folk have already pointed out, an essential ingredient in this, is that it is actually funny. (And based in reality.)

It all smacks a bit of that very 90’s phenomena – ‘It can’t be that hard because he doesn’t live in Sheffield’. Happily, Fort William resident, Dave Macleod, and many others, blew this out of the water years ago.

I’ve had dozens of emails from folk inspired by Andy’s new route.

Sam’s photo, published worldwide, will bring folk to winter climb in the Highlands.

Talk is cheap but inspiration is divine.

The Secret remains….blissfully indifferent to all this posturing.

And it’s always up there. Often liberally covered in verglass and thick hoar as on the first ascent….

Aye, Rob(in).



We were duty bound to publish a response to the Know-All. So we have
220bpm on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
>
>
> Keep the comments coming.

Not up to par with the rest of the articles Mick. A bit cringeworthy tbh.
CJD - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

cheers for clarifying Mick, and yes, I appreciate all that - and don't assume that just because we don't all post on some of the forums or climb at that standard, that we don't take an interest or read about what's going on. It's just that this article, and the precursor to it, aren't, in my opinion, of the same, usually excellent, calibre of other UKC articles.

as the saying goes, just my 2p.
Sonya Mc on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Well, I admit to finding this one quite amusing. I thought the one before was nonsense, but this one did have me tittering in a couple of places, esp the Tomato Ripley bit, lol! (has he really been banned from the CIC?)
stevef - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
I too am confused. I thought Mr Tremblers prefers Brussel Sprouts to Onions? Who is the elusive Turnipmaker? Why was Guido wasting time on a mere HVS when conditions were clearly good for real climbing? Where was the real Captain Vivacious? He normally does far more gratuitous shakeouts and other posing when climbing. As he climbed the pitch in less than 3 hours. It was clearly not hard. And doesn't he normally get a top-rope for the hard bits? Help a guy out here.
Will Hunt - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Nobody is going to complain if there is no news and none is reported. You dont have to make stuff up.
Michael Ryan - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Will Hunt:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> Nobody is going to complain if there is no news and none is reported. You dont have to make stuff up.

Will, get with the programme.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=02&year=2008#n42591

We deal with ALL climbers at UKClimbing.com, not just a minority. Some things you won't be interested in or will not like.

I do live in hope that some will take their self-centered glasses off.

Mick
Alex Roddie - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Is someone covertly bumping this thread then deleting their message? I've noticed it happening several times today.
Wee Davie - on 14 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Please send me a link to a sewing kit seller so I can stitch up my split sides.

Davie
Jamie B - on 15 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Not against humour per-se, but this is largely indecypherable in-jokes which will be meaningless to the majority.

Maybe we should have a "rate article" facility so you guys can ascertain which ones are well-received; otherwise you are just equating quantity with quality.
Wee Davie - on 16 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

>Not against humour per-se, but this is largely indecypherable in-jokes which will be meaningless to the majority.

I think you've hit the nail on the head, Jamie.
If the characters are meant to be based on real people, then the writer has to give us more than just 'hilarious nicknames' like 'LL Cool J' to make us laugh. There is nothing inherently funny about calling someone LL Cool J unless the writer can explain why.
This total lack of substance makes the articles neither funny, nor interesting. It's not satire unless people can identify with why the characters are being satirised.
Overall, I get the impression that whoever wrote these pieces is pretty jealous of this route getting done/ or the attention given to the ascent (maybe both)- and that is quite sad really.
Comparing these two pieces to Patey's hilarious 'A Short Walk with Whillans' or any of his other essays is nothing short of embarrassing.


Davie
SultanofMull - on 16 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

An excellent piece, very amusing !! You should set up the climbing equivelent of spitting image or !

Dan
Jamie Simpson on 20 Feb 2008
In reply to Dan Goodwin:

Fantastic!

I imagine it will really wind some people up, and that’s what makes it even better! If you come courting fame and celebrity status on UKC you have to accept that some people will applaud you achievements, some will ignore you or even be indifferent and others will take the mickey!
Franco Cookson OLD - on 20 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: it's awful.
Bulls Crack - on 20 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

I think this was a rash investment of time - particularly after the Onion thing.

It's all too laboured to be funny.
JoeL 90 - on 20 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Just read this. I presume you need to be in with the whole winter new routing clique to get the names and jokes made. For which reason i didn't find it intresting. Although it isn't harming anyone and seems to entertain a few. Keep publishing such things if you entertaine someone then job done i suppose.
ta,
Joe
ads.ukclimbing.com
rulio - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Well done Mick! i thought it was very amusing!
People need to loosen up a bit! they remind me those 2 old guys in the Muppets Show? always complaining about everything! and never in a constructive way!

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