/ NEWS: Pete Whittaker climbs new grit E9 7a

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Pete Whittaker has continued his Burbage campaign and has climbed the oft tried arete start to Braille Trail at Burbage South.

Pete Reports:

I climbed the direct start to Braille Trail on Friday evening. I called it Dynamics of Change and I gave it E9 7a.

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news
MattH - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Good effort Pete. Good to see a new generation coming through :-)
Morgan Woods - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

when he says:

"I was busy over the weekend with school work and stuff"

does he mean as a student or teacher?
Richard Bradley - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Morgan Woods: not a teacher.
Mutl3y - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Top effort Pete!

Pete has now produced two new lines on this face: the original start with the direct finish and the direct start with the original finish.

Does this mean that the original line is redundant like when Simba's Pride replaced Stampede on the same crag? Or does the 3* status of BT protect it?
Franco Cookson OLD - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Richard Bradley: how old is he?
Gordon Stainforth - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Mutl3y:

How could an incredible traversing route like BT ever become 'redundant'? Next you'll be wondering if Great Slab or Valkyrie at Froggatt are redundant.
Franco Cookson OLD - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Mutl3y: bloody hell. Good effort then. E9 at 17. Well done Pete.
Martin Rogers - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

what a star,good going Pete!!! shame about the pic making it look like a jug fest though!
Gordon Stainforth - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Martin Rogers:

Do you mean the one in the UKC News article? - that's of Calvary.
Gordon Stainforth - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to David Simmonite:

Thanks, Dave. What a fantastic achievement.
Chris the Tall - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to David Simmonite:
He doesn't seem to be enjoying it very much, poor lad looks as if he's about to cry !

Stunning effort, he's almost as good as his big sister
Jus - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Chris the Tall:

That photo is of him on Calvary...
O. C. Curmudgeon on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Fabulous effort - that rock over looks evil.

I know you won't mind if I mention that last year he seconded up Quien Sabe at Bamford in front of me, while I led it clean.

There again a few years before in Sardinia when he was just a pipsqueak he managed a reachy route I had just failed on.

One-all, I'll take that.
slacky on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Martin Rogers:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> shame about the pic making it look like a jug fest though!

Your looking at the wrong pics, full set of most of it the bottom section at ...

http://hotaches.blogspot.com/2008/03/dynamics-of-change-e9-another-last.html

climbingcritter - on 18 Mar 2008
Wow, bloody well done.

That rockover move is just insane

Lots of respect
drysori - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Stunning.

I watched Pete on Braille Trail last year, and was curious about the chalk marks below the arete when I arrived at Burbage last Friday. I decided to wander over to Burbage North just after Hot Aches showed up, damn.

Pete - If you read this, we were the guys missing a large cam, we found it. After running from BN carpark to Fox House it turned out it was in my bag after all...
Franco Cookson OLD - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to slacky: After reading that, I must say again, bloody hell. Truly awsome climber. (and I don't say awesome often). Sounds like he's got alot of push behind him from his family though. -no less-an-achievement!
In reply to climbingcritter: Extra Information with photo now covered on the news page:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news

Thanks to HotAches for the details.
Chris the Tall - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to slacky:

Wow - that is an amazing sequence of images of a quite awesome line. How on earth anyone could do that rockover is beyond me - I'm guessing it requires the sort of flexibility that only a youngster could posess (not ignoring the strength to hang onto those slopers and the bottle to do it all with that fall potential....)

Chris the Tall - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> Sounds like he's got alot of push behind him from his family though. -no less-an-achievement!

I guess sibling rivalry/support can often help people progress - the Charltons, the Schumachers, the Murrays etc. But I can't think of many brother/sisters who have both reached the top of the same sport - maybe some tennis players. They ought to allow mixed doubles in climbing comps :)

Marc C - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Great achievement. Though, in reply to someone earlier, it's a totally different 'line' than Braille Traille AND a totally different style of climbing.

PS Can't say I find the name (Dynamics of Change) as inspiring as the route :(
mat098 on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: His next project could be a link between Dynamics of Change (i agree not to inspiring name) and Grandad Slab? Or would it be just plain stupid? Never been to burbage so i don't know the layout.
mat098 on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to mat098: p.s. Bloody good effort well done!
Franco Cookson OLD - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Chris the Tall: are his parents climbers?
James Moyle - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Mental Rockover!
Franco Cookson OLD - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Marc C: do you know what his hardest onsight was?
Simon - on 18 Mar 2008
In reply to Marc C:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) Great achievement. Though, in reply to someone earlier, it's a totally different 'line' than Braille Traille AND a totally different style of climbing.
>
> PS Can't say I find the name (Dynamics of Change) as inspiring as the route :(



Most FA names mean something to the FA chap or chapess - so be interesting to know the story behind the name - as although I agree its not instantly inspiring as per the Dawes' (Braille Trail) but I'm sure it is to Pete...


Si
Al Evans on 19 Mar 2008
In reply to Chris the Tall: Absolutely awesome.
In any case Chris you will always have difficulty understanding rockovers as you are so tall and thats a disadvantage, plus tall people can often just reach past them. Not this one I suspect though :-)
Ram MkiV - on 19 Mar 2008
Paz - on 19 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Just stunning. Probably now one of the coolest E9s in the country. Shame about the gruesome crux move - can someone work out a tall person's method please?

I like the name too. It's a tautology in a sense as dynamics is all about change, and change is a bit boring IMHO if it's not dynamic. Also dynamics, and the famous subset of it `Chaos Theory' are really great subjects that should have put far more of a breeze up all the other sciences than they have so far. It has many funky pictures, such as this one that shows where you go if you fall off a traverse on an ideal rope in vaccuo, so it and Pete's name are both cool:
http://seis.bris.ac.uk/~enjap/falltrajectories.jpg
Marc C - on 19 Mar 2008
In reply to Paz: Wow! :)

Suggest rechristen route... DoCbloC

(Dynamics of Change beyond laws of Chaos) ;-)
Skyfall - on 19 Mar 2008
Holy sh*t, just looked at the Hot Aches images.

The run out at the rock over crux (with horrendous swinging fall potential) is pretty sickening to think about.

If it's 7a, but with that run-out, is it really *only* E9?
mat098 on 20 Mar 2008
In reply to JonC: It says in the news bit that he says he hasnt got enough experience to grade it above E9, cant wait for the film.
sidewinder on 22 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Through very good timing while returning to the car, watched him climb it, amazing!
Crofty - on 22 Mar 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Very very good, the facial expression on the rockover tells a story, great to see. Crofty.
BrianT - on 23 Mar 2008
In reply to Marc C: Nah, he should have called it 'Pete's arete'.

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