/ NEWS: Pete Whittaker climbs new grit E9 7a
I climbed the direct start to Braille Trail on Friday evening. I called it Dynamics of Change and I gave it E9 7a.
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news
Good effort Pete. Good to see a new generation coming through :-)
when he says:
"I was busy over the weekend with school work and stuff"
does he mean as a student or teacher?
Pete has now produced two new lines on this face: the original start with the direct finish and the direct start with the original finish.
Does this mean that the original line is redundant like when Simba's Pride replaced Stampede on the same crag? Or does the 3* status of BT protect it?
How could an incredible traversing route like BT ever become 'redundant'? Next you'll be wondering if Great Slab or Valkyrie at Froggatt are redundant.
what a star,good going Pete!!! shame about the pic making it look like a jug fest though!
Do you mean the one in the UKC News article? - that's of Calvary.
Thanks, Dave. What a fantastic achievement.
He doesn't seem to be enjoying it very much, poor lad looks as if he's about to cry !
Stunning effort, he's almost as good as his big sister
That photo is of him on Calvary...
Fabulous effort - that rock over looks evil.
I know you won't mind if I mention that last year he seconded up Quien Sabe at Bamford in front of me, while I led it clean.
There again a few years before in Sardinia when he was just a pipsqueak he managed a reachy route I had just failed on.
One-all, I'll take that.
> shame about the pic making it look like a jug fest though!
Your looking at the wrong pics, full set of most of it the bottom section at ...
That rockover move is just insane
Lots of respect
I watched Pete on Braille Trail last year, and was curious about the chalk marks below the arete when I arrived at Burbage last Friday. I decided to wander over to Burbage North just after Hot Aches showed up, damn.
Pete - If you read this, we were the guys missing a large cam, we found it. After running from BN carpark to Fox House it turned out it was in my bag after all...
Wow - that is an amazing sequence of images of a quite awesome line. How on earth anyone could do that rockover is beyond me - I'm guessing it requires the sort of flexibility that only a youngster could posess (not ignoring the strength to hang onto those slopers and the bottle to do it all with that fall potential....)
I guess sibling rivalry/support can often help people progress - the Charltons, the Schumachers, the Murrays etc. But I can't think of many brother/sisters who have both reached the top of the same sport - maybe some tennis players. They ought to allow mixed doubles in climbing comps :)
PS Can't say I find the name (Dynamics of Change) as inspiring as the route :(
> PS Can't say I find the name (Dynamics of Change) as inspiring as the route :(
Most FA names mean something to the FA chap or chapess - so be interesting to know the story behind the name - as although I agree its not instantly inspiring as per the Dawes' (Braille Trail) but I'm sure it is to Pete...
In any case Chris you will always have difficulty understanding rockovers as you are so tall and thats a disadvantage, plus tall people can often just reach past them. Not this one I suspect though :-)
Just stunning. Probably now one of the coolest E9s in the country. Shame about the gruesome crux move - can someone work out a tall person's method please?
I like the name too. It's a tautology in a sense as dynamics is all about change, and change is a bit boring IMHO if it's not dynamic. Also dynamics, and the famous subset of it `Chaos Theory' are really great subjects that should have put far more of a breeze up all the other sciences than they have so far. It has many funky pictures, such as this one that shows where you go if you fall off a traverse on an ideal rope in vaccuo, so it and Pete's name are both cool:
Suggest rechristen route... DoCbloC
(Dynamics of Change beyond laws of Chaos) ;-)
The run out at the rock over crux (with horrendous swinging fall potential) is pretty sickening to think about.
If it's 7a, but with that run-out, is it really *only* E9?
Elsewhere on the site
Atom Series: Synthetic insulated mid layers AR: All-Round. Significantly warmer and more protective than a fleece hoody, this... Read more
Nikwax’s uncompromising environmental ethos has once again been recognised and rewarded by a trusted authority in... Read more
The British climbing scene is very exciting at the moment. It is quite clear that as a sport it is developing at a rapid rate and... Read more
2014 has been a bumper year for climbing publications. Here's a few of the ones that we have either read, or ones that we... Read more
Hot Aches Productions premiered their latest film Redemption: The James Pearson Story at Kendal Mountain Festival on... Read more