UKC

Hey there! I'm back with my final update as it is the end of April...

To cut a long story short...it didn't happen. To get into why it didn't would sound as if I was making excuses which I'm not willing to do.

I am disappointed but I know it could be worse...I could have got injured from pushing too hard which could have put me out for a while so I still have a lot to be grateful for. Let me dwell rather on the positives rather than the negatives.

1) My finger injury is completely healed! Yay! Took long enough!
2) Getting closer to doing 1 arm pull ups.
3) Finger strength has increased.
4) Sloper strength has improved tremendously. I'm doing some crazy problems that make some of my friends shake their heads ;0)
5) I'm beginning to climb more fluidly than before.
6) Guy Fawkes will go...I've had some attempts and it hasn't floored me (would like to know exactly where to do the sit start from...).

A big question a lot of people will ask is where exactly am I at with regards to grades...difficult question to answer as I haven't done a V9 outdoors yet. I have, however, been working really hard and would go as far as to say that I'm in the region of V8+ V9. How can i say this? There is a crimp traverse on my local wall that I'm working and everyone that has looked at it has said it is at least V10...I'm on the last 2 moves which are ridiculous...but I fancy my chances!
I also was lucky enough to be down at my local wall when my friend brought 2 of his friends from Slovakia...these guys were nails! The one guy has bouldered 8B! Naturally they destroyed everything in sight until it came to my unconfirmed (8A) natural features problem. I showed them the sequence and they powered through the first section only to come unstuck towards the sustained brutality at the end. After resting they figured out some easier sequences but couldn't get the last move. They put this down to fatigue and said they would try it the next day but said it could be 8A. I was going to go watch the next day but ended up not doing so. I did hear rumours that they did attempt it on a few more times (the following day) but were unsuccessful...is it 8A then? I've attempted it a few more times and I'm getting near to where they were falling off...so I'm really happy with that.

Don't really have nothing else to say...other than I will achieve 8A soon...and definitely before the end of the year!

Take care!

In reply to Sircumfrins:

Yawn, are you actually for real!!

In reply to beegsyboy: why dont you f*ck of and not reply if you dont have anything remotely useful or interesting to say.


Sircumfrins, glad your finger is getting better good luck in reaching your goals mate.

Si

In reply to andyinglis: another tit on this forum, where is the need for that reply??

In reply to andyinglis: I could help you to get from working a V5 to bouldering a bit harder...manners might take a bit longer.

In reply to Sircumfrins: So perhaps you understand it when a lot of people were sceptical about your goals - it aint easy!

As far as your grade acheivements over the time, I would much rather know if you did a V7 or V8 outdoors, and how much you enjoyed it, rather than what region you may be indoors - the proof is in the pudding so to speak.

Good effort for psyche though, I'll await the update on New Years eve!

In reply to sihills: Thank you!
I guess the previous responses hadn't read my previous threads so wouldn't understand why I'm posting on my progress like I said I would.

In reply to andyinglis: I prefer yours to be fair, sound like a real man, ggrrrr!

In reply to Mini: I did Lightning Strike (V7) after working the crux for 30mins, on my first attempt & did Cavity Search (V7) after trying to figure out the crux after a couple of attempts. I did a few V8's indoors (I know...they don't count).

What I am enjoying is extremely difficult moves...the concentration you need to achieve this as well as the correct body positioning needed to complete it. I'm getting some decent core tension from this. I'm finding that as the grades get higher the need to be more static and precise is increasing dramtically! Loving it fully!

In reply to Sircumfrins: What did you expect from your post? A queue of people writing to worship your fine training efforts? Manners...... thats ironic from a SAfrican!!!!!

In reply to andyinglis: Wow...how old are you?

In reply to Sircumfrins: So when you first posted with intentions back in january (?), your grade was around V7, and now you have done a V7! Mmmmm. Me thinks you've a long long long way to go!!!!

In reply to Sircumfrins:

wow, sensing some competition !
this is a climbing forum, surely let him have his say
i dont understand the problem... he's a good climber and wants to discuss his progress
i envy him! if i posted a topic on my progress i'd be laughed at i'm sure
this is petty

In reply to andyinglis:
Don't be an idiot. There's been 2 threads on this, and those of us that offered advice, scepticism, encouragement, abuse (or a combination of all the above) to Sircumfrins on those might be interested to hear how he's been getting on. (Even only if it's to be able to say 'told you so' or similar) At least it's a thread related to climbing rather than another 'my cat's just had its birthday' 'what shall i have for dinner' thread cluttering up the forum.
Anyway, sircumfrins: keep it up, still a fair way to go from 7A+ to 8A! I bouldered a lot over the winter and my 'best' went from 7A to 7C, but the 8As I've had a look at seem another big step up.. good luck.

In reply to Sircumfrins:

Well, good luck moving towards the 8a. As you see it's a shed-load of work. Keep the psyche high. Good luck.

K

And ignore the douchebag with the weiner obsession.

In reply to Mini: When I posted in Jan I said I was climbing at V6 as I had done a few indoors but hadn't done it outdoors...to be honest, when I posted the first thread, the hardest problem I had done (outdoors) was Cat Killer which was V3 (I had been to Font and climbed there but didn't know how difficult any of the problems were that I did) as I hadn't been outdoors in ages. So when I did lightning Strike in January it was the first time I had climbed outdoors since then.
Long way to go...possibly!

In reply to abarro81: Thanks for that abarro. You keep climbing hard too!

In reply to Kurt: Thanks!
The douchebag??? Who was that? ;0) [water off a ducks back...]

In reply to andyinglis: What's rattled your cage then? Seems like like the dismissal of some posters as 'bitchy little queens' by Jim Perrin might have some validity after all, although I just thought he was being a grumpy old man at the time.
There's a big difference between discussing your progress with bumptiousness and doing it with arrogance...and being self-absorbed isn't the most unusual quality in climbers. After all, don't like the post, don't waste time your reading it let alone posting a reply!
Sircumfrins has a certain obsession with grades, but then many climbers do, and all I can see is a load of ambitious enthusiasm rather than anything which warrants real hostility.
What used to amaze me when I started out was how supportive really good climbers were to lesser mortals, and I've climbed with some of the best over the years. So why be so dismissive? Have things changed so much? Would you do that to someone's face? It almost seems tinged with a bit of envy that someone can be so outrageously optimistic in their enthusiasm. Give me motivation over sour grapes any day.

In reply to Sircumfrins:

Have you tried Waveband on portland? I think V9 now, but heard that it is pretty cool - should be on your list...

In reply to Richard Horn: Yo Richmeister!
I went to check it but it was damp...I suspect that this is quite a problem as a lot of people have said this...

In reply to Sircumfrins:

As always, it's good to hear from motivated people. I hope that you continue to make progress.

In reply to Sircumfrins:

Sounds like things are going well. Keep it up

In reply to Sircumfrins: NICE ONE!!! dont listen to all the goons who are just jealous, or reli reli petty, i read ur first posts n its good and even inpiring to see the level of motivation u ahv put in!!

In reply to Sircumfrins:
Good to hear the fingers sorted.
Can I ask how you're training for the one armers? Ie. If you're going of a campus rung, or a bar?

In reply to Sircumfrins:
I agree with the posters who've said it's good to hear from motivated people! It gives me a kick, reading someone else buzzing because they're getting there. It's not about the grades, it's the drive and fun that's inspirational. Keep it up, and good luck.

In reply to gingerkate and Sircumfrins:

You two should both join fit club. Having to record your achievements on a daily basis in an environment which pits yourself against well... yourself is quite a motivator.

There have been many occasions where I thought 'right, that's it', but I stuck with it even when I was struggling with measly physio exercises and I have to say that no, it (very) obviously didn't make me a strong climber, but it did help to put things into perspective and gave something to push myself with.

Just something to think about...

In reply to Jenn:
If I recorded my daily achievements it'd read like the diary of Adrienne Mole aged 47 and two weeks :oS

In reply to Sircumfrins:

Good to see the motivation is still running high. As I've said before, though, be really careful not to rush things too much. I don't mean to sound like I'm saying 'told you so', but pretty much everyone reading your original posts knew you stood no chance whatsoever of hitting your goal. The more mature/experienced members of the forum resisted the temptation to take the piss, because they respect enthusiasm and inspiration.

You've still got a long, long way to go, but keep it up and you'll get there. I've always been convinced that the best sportspeople are not, necessarily, the ones with the 'best genes' (whatever that means - badly over-used and naive expression), but the ones most insanely and obsessively driven for the longest who take control, prioritise so that their lives work around their obsession and enjoy a good dose of good luck.

In reply to gingerkate:

'It's not about the grades'...

But if grades motivate you and you have fun chasing them, then it can be about the grades. A lot of pious gits (not you) berate people for chasing grades, but I see nothing wrong with it unless you use it to judge others (which, to be fair, is a tendency quite common amoung some grade chasing circles).

In reply to Dom Orsler:
You misunderstood me. I meant 'it doesn't matter what grade you climb at, if you want to improve, you can relate to this'. Obviously improving is about the grades!!

In reply to gingerkate:

Had the reference explained to me by my b/f, lol

You should have a look though. I am sure that it is nowhere near as 'hardcore' as you might think.

In reply to groovy_nut: Thanks!

In reply to dunkymonkey17: Thanks alot! Negative comments are good...fuels the fire!

In reply to Sircumfrins:
coming on an internet forum to boast about what indoor grade you climb.

WOW

In reply to zorro: I trained to do assisted 1 armers by using a small 2 finger pocket lower down and used a campus board as well. We have one at Calshot and what i started doing was campussing 1 3 5 7 (I already had 1 armed lock offs down with additional weight added).Now that this is easy (leading with both left and right) I have been focussing on pulling through from 90 degrees then 100 degrees etc. I can now do it from 130. I'm going to try 1 4 7 now and once this is done I should be able to do a 1 arm pull up...in theory. ;0)

In reply to Dom Orsler: Hey Dom! The majority of what you have written is true but I still disagree with the fact that you say I had no chance whatsoever...to go from V0 to doing a single 8A problem in a year in a half is most definitely possible. With the right focus, training (facilities), diet and determination it can and will happen to someone (if it hasn't already). It could have been me...I'm not a deluded person, I knew how tough it would be...
I respect you massively because you are already where I want to be. And I do appreciate your advice and words...So thank you!!! :0)

In reply to Sircumfrins: Maybe you should condense down the advice in the three threads and your own experience into an article so that anyone trying similar in future has the benefit of the help you had without the abuse?

In reply to Sircumfrins:

Just so you know, 1-4-7 (on big rungs) is a damn site easier than a 1 arm pull up.

Good luck!

In reply to Sircumfrins:
Can you lock off on a pullup bar one armed?

In reply to galpinos: Who says I'm doing it on the big rungs? FYI I'm doing it on the small rungs.

In reply to james oswald: Take some time to read previous entries and you will find the answer...yes, for convenience sake though.

In reply to Dom Orsler:

I disagree. Sure, the chances weren't high but it still was potentially achieveable (though perhaps not for anyone). One brief example, I was reading an old copy of climber (aug 2006 maybe?) this morning; in the bouldering section there was news of a 19 year old guy who had just repeated a V12 in scotland, and had only been climbing for 18 months. This kind of thing is possible, but it seems to require just the right cocktail of natural talent (or whatever you want to call it), training motivation and perhaps one or two other characteristics. Take for example dave graham (reportedly climbed 8b+ sport in his first year of climbing).

In reply to mystery luke:

When I said 'no chance whatsoever' I meant in the context of the improvements made and achievements mentioned prior to that point. I think if Sircumfirins were one of those rare and almost mythical beasts who does go from zero to hero in a flash, that would have been more apparent in earlier posts.

I'm a firm believer that certain benchmark abilities generally (although not strictly; there are excpetions) correlate with grades and/or abilities, in exactly the same way that (e.g.) most of the front row in most international level rugby teams can squat a similar amount of weight, although, yes, agreed, you have to be careful trying to quanitfy things in climbing to the same extent. To climb V11/8A, I would suggest, generally, that you should be able to do a basic 1-5-9 on middle campus rungs, do one or more clean one-armers on each arm without too much hassle and deadhang by one hand from mid-sized campus rungs on either hand, for five seconds or more. That was, roughly, where I needed to be to send 8A. Of course, it depends upon the problem and the individual, and the skill/accuracy/timing associated with doing a LOT of climbing also needs to be in place, but I still believe this to be a useful rule of thumb...

Extend this to the top end, 8C and above, and guys like Fred Nic can crank out quite a few one armers and dangle around for ages, hanging one handed off of small campus rungs. 8C comes from enormous skill, PLUS massive physical strength. You'll hear a lot of anecdotal stories about Dave G not being able to do one-armers, etc, but in general that's bollocks. Generally speaking, people climbing at or above 8A are massively strong compared to most people climbing V8 (i.e. you). Takes a long time to get really strong, and maybe longer to develop really polished skill, accuracy and timing, but it will come. Just not in 18 months. Don't forget, you're still in that 'fast gainer' stage and have yet to hit a really solid plateau. You may have experienced one or two slow downs in gains, but trust me, they're not the same as solid plateaus, which can last years.

In summary, there's no magic to it. Just dedication, consistency, inspiration, sacrifice, good nutrition, plenty of water, plenty of sleep, not too much beer (he said, sipping his beer on a Friday night - hey, it's been a long week and it's 6:15 on a gorgeous, sunny Spring evening here in Alberta. The kids are watching 101 Dalmations and singing 'Cruella De Ville').

Keep it up and, as you're clearly doing, use the negative crap from the naysayers and jealous little bitches to your advantage (I hope you don't think I'm being negative). If you're ever in the Bow Valley near Calgary, drop me a line and I'll take you out to try some local 8A's. But, of course, only if you've made the grade; I could never be seen with sub-8A climbers

In reply to galpinos: i can do one armers on relatively shit holds (and find hangin on em locked off easier than straight armed) but i'm f*cked if i can di 1 4 7 on the big rungs.

In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: Can't you just get 4, do a 1 armer on it to lock off and then casually reach 7 then?

In reply to TimS: For some reason no, though i'm buggered if i know why not.

In reply to Dom Orsler: Hi Dom!
Informative as always and very true (I don't think you're being negative by and by)...
If I ever venture that way I'll be sure to drop you a line...Naturally I would have to be stronger...I wouldn't want your "reputation" being squandered...being seen with a lower level boulderer and all... ;0)

In reply to Sircumfrins:

I think the main problem - highlighted by Orsler - is the compartmentalisation of ability in relation to grade. Individual goals in training are a good thing, but shouldn't be used to correlate to what you can climb outside on a problem.

In my eyes there are two strains of climbers, which naturally overlap to a certain extent. Some train hard on wood and plastic then take it outside to see how it's working then get back to it (train to climb), I always imagine Malc being like this, you never see him or hear of him for a year then all of a sudden he appears, racks up a serious set of routes and problems and then goes back underground. I'm sure he said something along the lines that he'd not be bothered if hge never went out again. And then those who climb to get stronger/better. I'd say I don't train, but I suppose I do in so much as I do outdoor circuits which I know. Lapping traverses to failure and doing elimanting holds can only be seen as training.

I would argue that you really don't need to climb 1-5-9 and do one-armers to climb 8a, in fact all those I know well who climb 8a can't do these exercises, and those who can do the exercises are nowhere near the grade ( I know no-one who does 1-5-9 mind)

Take from this what you will.

Good luck.

In reply to andi turner:

Of possible interest to support your above theory - here is a video of Dave Graham claiming that he can't do a one armer. He could of course be lying

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=dhWaJPEoJzQ

It’s worth it for the ‘Dreamtime's going to roll down that hill eventually’ comment.