UKC

Is it more efficient? Or does it depend on the circumstances?

In reply to james oswald: Roll up, roll up...

In reply to james oswald:

various scientific reports* have shown that dynoing is on average 117% more efficient for any particular climbing move than 'static climbing'.

i now dyno everything, especially below VDiff, as this is where the most energy gains are to be made.

ps. how's the campussing going?



* letme know if you need exact report details.

In reply to satori:
Huh? When was i supposed to be campussing?

In reply to james oswald:

i thought you may be since you asked me this question...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=299653&v=1#x4433948

In reply to james oswald: I don't quite understand the question.

Some moves require a dyno, some don't.

Thats about it.

In reply to james oswald:
Depends on your species.

In reply to james oswald: there are not many routes with dyno's.most of them are going to be e5 plus,anything easier would be possible to do it static by a stronger climber

In reply to james oswald:

Depends. It lets you climb harder. All movement is dynamic to a degree. Dynamicism can let you use your legs more and your arms less. And it depends what you mean (i.e. whether it conforms to Jason Myre's airborn distinction between a dyno and a slap or not). Climbing more dynamically is usually more efficient as it's just faster but you need the third eye to onsight doing this and it's more error prone. And you have to be brave or in a good frame of mind to believe in your practised dynoing ability or talent to harness and control it, or cope. And I find you need to have enough power in the tank for it to feel possible. Some hard moves you actually need to crank rather than slap on, e.g. because your feet will come off or you have to hand the hold in control, or can't hold a swing on it - it's not much use doing it the easy way if the move only feels easy the one time out of a hundred you manage it, unless this is the only possible method for you.

In reply to satori:
Nope i have a shoulder injury at the moment. And i don't campus much anyway.

In reply to daveholliday:


I'll try to fill in the gaps for the hard of thinking...

Sometimes there is more than one sequence of moves which will get you between two sets of holds.

Sometimes one of these possible sequences involves a dynamic move, and another one of these possible sequences is static.

Sometimes these two sequences could be of a similar technical difficulty - although obviously very different in style.

Imagine such a set of holds exist, such that there are at least two possible sequences of moves between them, requiring similar levels of technical ability. One of which is a dyno, one of which is static.

In that situation, which of the sequences would you tend to choose, and which do you think uses most energy?


Personally, I'll scout around for a little while, but if the destination holds look good, and I'm getting knackered on the starting holds, I'll throw at the holds rather than fiddle around until a static sequence appears. Probably a consequence of having springy legs and not much stamina.

In reply to adam carless:

Depends if it was onsight or redpoint, or bold or safe.

I think we can assume it's onsight as you've told us little else and it's safe as you're nice like that or you'd have warned us.

So I'd go static, then try dynoing too.

In reply to adam carless:


I'm usually the same. I think being at the shorter end of the spectrum tends to encourage a more dynamic style though it all depends on circumstances; trad onsighting being where I'm least likely to do it and indoor bouldering the most. I don't do proper feet off dynos though, just springing up to holds and using momentum. For me it seems to save a lot of energy where I'd otherwise be locking off.