/ NEW ARTICLE: Indian Creek USA - by Jonas Wiklund

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"I've never fallen off a hand crack anywhere in the world. When the thumb is folded in and rests against the palm the hand forms a perfect wedge. The foot jam is incredibly secure. The only way to fall off a hand crack is by letting go on purpose.

On the first route I did at The Creek, the aptly named Generic Crack, 120 feet of flared hands, the last statement in the paragraph above was almost falsified..."

"...After someone demonstrated the ringlock/karate-chop combo for me, I could do one or two moves..."


Jonas Wiklund goes crack climbing in the desert crack-mecca of Indian Creek...

Read more: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=888


Lemony - on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Seems like a reasonable place to link to this video of Alex Honnold that someone posted last night:

http://www.bdel.com/scene/video/alex_indian_creek.html

Inspiring place!
johncoxmysteriously - on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Very good tip indeed about shoes. He's not wrong.

jcm
Morgan Woods - on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

brilliant, comprehensive article Jonas.
fimm on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Some really good photos there.
Wingman on 16 May 2008 - host86-129-70-105.range86-129.btcentralplus.com
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

amazing pics

great article

It's always been on my list, going to be moving higher. Now all I have to do is learn how to jam.
(he makes it sound so easy!)
galpinos - on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Great article, makes we want to go, not sure I could afford all the cams though!
Jonas Wiklund - on 16 May 2008
In reply to galpinos:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC)
>
> Great article, makes we want to go, not sure I could afford all the cams though!

Thank you! If you go to a popular buttress during the season you can always borrow a few cams for any particular route from other parties at the crag. Also, the routes are quite hard on the body and most climbers will do as few as 4-5 routes a day so it is not a bad idea to go there in a party of three, and three climbers should have 50-60 cams between them, non?
Chris F - on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

"on a crumbly tips crack I ripped three aliens straight out of the crack and hit the ground. But in a nice way"

Great piece of writing.
tobyfk - on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

A superb article. Absolutely in line with my two (brief) visits there apart from Jonas' experience of it feeling easier after a while ....

Staying in Monticello is an interesting choice! Quite a scary place as only remote US desert towns can be. Readers of a certain age may be interested to know that the road that used to be Route 666, immortalised in 'Natural Born Killers' starts there ....
Jonas Wiklund - on 16 May 2008
In reply to tobyfk: If you stay there for more than a brief visit it does gets quite a lot easier. After a month in The Creek my onsight level on anything not involving stacking different body-parts was approaching my onsight level for sportclimbing.
tobyfk - on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

Did you get on any towers whilst you were there?
alicia - on 16 May 2008
In reply to Jonas Wiklund:

Great article, exactly what you'd want to know about the place.
Jonas Wiklund - on 16 May 2008
In reply to tobyfk: Nope. Fell off a highball in Mizugaki a few months prior to my US-trip, and my ankle was still swollen when I was in Utah. So I didn't want to do any approach hikes.
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TonyB - on 19 May 2008
Great article. I think the only way to experience the creek is to camp. There are some spectacular places the desert scenery, the stars, the solitude are all part of the experience. It's a hassle to carry in the water and to pack out the human waste, but this is only a small issue compared with the overall beauty of the place. If anyone's not convinced look at the picture here http://desert-climbing.blogspot.com/2007/10/friends-of-indian-creek.html

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