UKC

Broke my ring and index Metacarpals 6 weeks ago. Both fixed with surgury and 5 periment scews were fitted. Doctors are not so sure if rock climbing will be still an option once healed. I dont belive this. Ive done some research on the subject with my spare time. I read a simlair injury would end a Boxers carree, lucky i dont box! Obviouly iam consered about my climbing fututre, and need some hope/relatity.

At the moment I can pull on my hand with only a little pain, (admitting to doing a few diffs and a few pullups) but pushing on my hand/wrist is painfull, mantleing ect out of the quesion at the moment, and its this movement I fears gonna be the probelm. Jamming... actually stings more than a "boney" pain , but I hope this will go with time.

Would be great to hear from anyone whos broken anything in there hand and was repaired to full working order.

Thanks
Ian,

In reply to IanJackson: I broke my 5th and 6th metacarpals in my right hand about 5 years ago. the little finger and ring finger on my right hand. No surgery was required but was in pot for about 4 weeks.

I couldn't climb by my standards)for about a year. i still get some pain and stiffness after long days at the crag or when its really cold.

Other than that it is fine.

I hope you make a full recovery

Graham

In reply to IanJackson:

I gave myself a spiral fracture to the third metacarpal on my left hand a few years ago, but didn't need surgery fortunately. I was able to climb carefully on easy slabs right from day 1, just using my injured hand for balance (improved my footwork immensely!), but took it easy, gradually stepping things up and was back at full strength after about 4 months.

In reply to Stuart S: both my brakes were spiral fractures. My ring Finger was displaces slightly. They werent sure about the operation, but i went for a second oppion. After the operation I didnt require a pot, which allowed me to regain full movement quite quickly.

Would be intertesting to here if theres anyone whos had scews in there hand.

In reply to Stuart S: have you climbed E3 since your accident?

In reply to rock ape: have you ever tried any training methods such as fingerboard and/or using a climbing gym 3-4 times a week?

My phyiso said building strength in my fingers will help with the pain/stiffness. I found this hard to belive!

In reply to IanJackson:

I broke mine while on holiday and didn't get to a hospital for a week, by which time I was told it wasn't worth putting a pot on it and was just given a brace/support instead. The finger has healed a little squint/twisted, but it's as strong as it ever was.

Since I broke it, I've climbed E3, F7b and Font 7a+, so no reason you shouldn't get back to your former standard as long as you don't rush things and regain your strength carefully. Good luck!

In reply to Stuart S: Ive found my ring finger is a bit twisted too. Feels weird did you get use to it?

In reply to IanJackson:

I broke two in my right hand years ago before I started climbing and have never had any problems. I didn't have to be screwed up though. I wouldn't push it too hard too soon though. Better to rest it now to let it repair properly than knacker it trying to get back to fitness before it's repaired properly. My wife (doctor) says it'll take 2 months before they're properly healed.

In reply to IanJackson:

Yeah, my middle finger tends to sit slightly underneath my ring finger when at rest (as opposed to along side it), but it's not a big deal.

In reply to SuperTed: Iam resting and drinking my milk. dont care how long it takes, as long as i can climb again!

In reply to IanJackson: I've broken almost all of the metacarpals in my right hand in the past, it isn't noticably worse than my left hand, and though not ever needing more medical intervention than strapping, they were back in full user after about a month. At the moment I'm recovering from breaking the second joint on my little finger, still hurts a little to pull on after couple of weeks off. You'll be back, no probs!

In reply to Edd_Harris: Thanks Edd. you obviously don't like your right hand very much.

In reply to IanJackson: Just to add to the reassurance I totally mullered my left hand a few years before I started climbing. I've never noticed any problems with it, other than the fingers are all a bit twisted out of line.
Also broke my right a couple of years back (spiral fracture) took just over four weeks to "heal" with me still working (as a builder!) and was close to feeling like full strength within two months. I still occasionaly get some discomfort with it but nothing major.
Mind you I have no metal work in there.
Anyway there's always slabs...

In reply to Keeg: iam not a fan of slabs.

In reply to Keeg: like my steep jamming cracks....

In reply to Keeg: so pulling hard on "twisted" fingers is ok then? My fingers rub together when i make a fist, feels weird, but ill get use it! you would think going in there with screws they would at least straighten them up!

In reply to IanJackson:
I've never had any problem with my twisted fingers on the left hand. But I did break it a while before starting climbing so it had healed properly (or as properly as twisted fingers can heal). The right hand still has a bony lump where the break was and sometimes feels a bit sore when pulling hard, but doesn't hinder my climbing. I'm aware of it but it's not a stopper or anything.
My advice would be ease yourself back in slowly (esp. with the metalwork etc) but keep building the forces slowly and you should be fine. Doctors predicitions tend to be conservative at the best of times. Your bones will "heal" pretty quickly but the density needs to build up to give strength and this takes time.
Good luck.

In reply to IanJackson:

Ian,

You are sick and wrong. Get yourself over to the lakes if you fancy a classic Diff run. I'll lead, V Diff is about my limit at the minute!

Hope you finger get better soon matey, just give it time.

In reply to IanJackson:
Chin up mate, dont believe what the docors say, most of teh time they're overly pessimistic. Keep light training and gradual build up and you'll be climbing well again by the end of the summer. I'm back up north next monday, mabye a trip to the anchor is in order?
Luke

A timely thread (for me). Commiserations on the hands Ian. I broke my 3rd metacarpal (right hand) 4 weeks ago, cross-country skiing. It's still in plaster; no pins, but a spiral fracture and the knuckle has been visibly displaced 4 mm up my hand. I worry about being able to pull on my MTB brakes, jam cracks, use small holds etc. It was cheering to read of people's recovery stories here. I moved from the UK to the edge of the Rockies last fall and was looking forward to a good summer's climbing. From what a couple of you have said, I might yet get some done, although I guess it'll be walking and scramblin for a couple of months yet. Not even sure when the cast will come off - do the tendons slacken off again with physio? I can currently only move my middle 2 fingers up to 90 degrees bent, no straighter.

In reply to IanJackson: If you google for 'bone healing diets' or similar, there are other things you need in addition to calcium - and to help with Ca absorption. Boron (from apples), various vitamins, yeast and other stuff. The list is a bit scary as it prohibits a lot of stuff too - salt, sugar, alcohol, nicotine, fat, caffeine and more....

I did try a special diet for the first 2 weeks but it had no visible effect at my next x ray, so I went back to the usual unhealthy lifestyle...glad I'm not a smoker though - smoking seems to be the worst possible thing when you're trying to promote bone growth.

Thanks for the replys everyone....dieing to here for a fellow Titanium man.

In reply to IanJackson:

Afraid I'm no expert on fingers but I have been carrying a large amount of titnium and stainless in my legs for the last 20 years after a decent fall at Swanage. If it's any comfort I thought (and was told) I'd never climb anything again but have climbed harder routes since the accident. In addition I learned a great deal from the expereince and am now not afraid to run way when I feel unsettled. On the down side the pain never really leaves; you just get used to it.

In reply to FrankW:

what are your experiences of going through customs like? have you got a doctors note or something?

In reply to James_D:

Jt used to be a bit embassaing, but I quickly gotused to the things going off and getting frisked. Modern detectors are quite good at telling the difference and the airport staff are quite used to people with pins.

In reply to FrankW:

Fair nuff. I thought there might be a secret handshake or something. Have you seen the mock the week with the australian comedian who has a false foot? Its quite amusing.

In reply to James_D: bump.

In reply to IanJackson: Cracked many bones in my hands many times and the only trouble i ever have is with fingerprint readers as a couple of my fingers are at not-quite-straight angles.

At least it made me give up goalkeeping.

In reply to IanJackson:

I had a spiral frature of the metacarple of my left middle finger about 9 years ago. It wasn't pinned or cupped or anything, just strapped with my index finger. It was probably about 2-3 months before I was climbing properly again. I don't have any problems with it now, except for jamming with my left hand - I have a lump of bone sticking out a bit (the bone repaired a bit short!) and it's the first part of my hand to 'bite' whilst jamming! A bit sore, but nothing to prevent a move being done (though it can be a good excuse!).

In reply to bullwinkle: I could of related too your injury if they hadnt operated, but stil havent heard of any climber with screws in there fingers or hand. I belive this is a new method to treating displaced fratures in hands, as I was told there normally left alone.

I will have a lump on the back of my hand too, and ill be avoiding jamming moves for this summer. Quick look throug your logbook, i couldnt see any "jamming" routes in there. Do you really avoid classic Jamming cracks like the File, Bond Street The Cracks (Gimmer)ect?

In reply to IanJackson:

I generally haven't gone for out and out jamming cracks, but I am learning to use jams slowly! Most routes have good opportunities to jam, and I am definitely starting to use them more and more. Taking a quick look at my last 50 routes I would say I have used jams on most of them, and some of them could even be classed as jamming cracks (The Cracks, Twin Crack Corner etc.)! The File is on the list for the summer, I've done Gimmer Crack , I don't really like Millstone (though I should probably persist and learn to love it!). I can generally try to set the jam with my left hand to cause as little discomfort as possible, sometimes none at all, sometime you just have to grin and bear it!

In reply to IanJackson:

i'd take it easy, my mate whilst pi$$ed fell over and damaged his little finger. three operations later it's still buggered and looks like it will have to be amputated and i am being serious!

Ian Jackson

Just bumped into my doctor downstairs (she works in the same building) and she reckons that I'll get full mobility back pretty quickly with physio - thought this might cheer you somewhat, given the similarity.

In reply to Snorkers: Yes i was very pleased to gain full movement. after my operation my could only twitch my fingers (due to swelling)but I kept with my physio, hope you gain full recovey too. Can you push your hand down (a push up) without pain?

In reply to bullwinkle: yea, jams are never painless are they? You will enjoy the File, there's plenty of jugs to grit your teeth on.

In reply to IanJackson:

Ha! I wish. No - it'll only straighten to make a 90 degree angle at the 2nd knuckle. Can't push on the palm as it's in a half cast. I'm not putting any pressure on it until the surgeon clears me to ditch the cast, just in case - the spiral runs right up from the knuckle to my wrist.

In reply to Snorkers: Ow, thats a big crack! my fracture (spiral) in one Metacarpal runs up to my wrist joint. This is wants causing the pain when i try and push on my wrist (after 6 weeks now). this is want the Doc says anyway.

In reply to IanJackson:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=303258

In reply to Toreador: thanks Simon, hadnt seen that!