Malcolm Smith has shown a return to sport climbing recently with ascents of hard routes in Scotland in 2007. He has just climbed Unjustified 8c (Malham) and says:
"Unjustified was one of the routes in Yorkshire I wanted to clean up, having not climbed it back in the day...
...I like routes I can do quickly but if I want to climb a 9a in Yorkshire I'll need to get ready for a siege."
In reply to deacondeacon: sica is a kind of glue i believe which people often use to cement loose holds or holds which have fallen off routes which are crucial.
It's hard to believe that Malc works full time as well, be interesting to see what he could do if he climbed full time like a lot of the others at that level.
Hurray! Although he probably did it in the baking heat. I'd agree it is similar in difficulty to Unjustified, much less sustained but with a significantly harder crux.
> (In reply to tbertenshaw)
>
> I don't seeing any problem with two routes of similar difficulty being different grades, do you?
> Power Ranger is not 8c.
Exactly, its what suits...
Power Ranger - Burlyish, cruxy.
Unjustified - More sustained, crimpy, endurance.
From my extensive knowledge on both routes. (Not!)
In reply to midgets of the world unite: no just serpico's description which was he said it was hard 8b+ and probably as hard as unjustified. Maybe the way i read it but i thought that sounded like he was saying they were the same grade rather than one is slightly harder than the other.
Cheers
Tim
Serpico05 Jun 2008
In reply to tbertenshaw:
Aaargh! Don't make it my fault!
I'm probably misquoting Malcolm.
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