UKC

NEWS: Gaz Parry - New Kilnsey 8b+ - Then On To Trango Tower!

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 Jack Geldard 05 Jun 2008
Dr Crimp (8b+) is a direct start to an old and rarely repeated 7c called Chris's Route, first climbed by Chris Sowden in 1994.

Gaz has a date with several international bouldering competitions, then he is up-scaling slightly:

"I am off to Trango in Pakistan on the 26th August to attempt to free climb the classic 31 pitch Eternal Flame route on The Nameless Tower with Jerry Gore and a Euro team - most of whom I met in Madagascar in 2006."

Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=06&year=2008#n44643
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Have i missed something in the article or a past new route? but it says ste Mc did a quick repeat of "A Quick Fixe" at kilnsey where is this route?

Cheers
Tim
OP Jack Geldard 05 Jun 2008
In reply to tbertenshaw: A Quick Fixe is as far as I know a left finish to Dalliance, which is an 8B+ on the far right of the crag near Grooved Arete.

The opening paragraph of the report is Gaz reporting on his new 8b+ Dr Crimp.
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: oh just seen it in the description of dalliance.

Cheers
Tim
 aln 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: What's a "rose" move?
 Jon Read 05 Jun 2008
In reply to aln:
crossing through with hands, in an over-armn style... bad description, bad picture here
http://www.hammamad.at/upload/medialibrary/guellich_8887.bmp

That route ("Rose et la Vampire") is what gave it the name.
 Jon Read 05 Jun 2008
In reply to aln:
Actually gives me the opportunity to show one of my favourite photos of one of my fave climbers. Here he is, Antoine Le Menestral, FA of La Rose et la Vampire, on that very same move:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Grendel.Mic/CarrosDeFuego/photo#510182022074295...
Marvellous!
 flaneur 05 Jun 2008
 Jon Read 05 Jun 2008
In reply to flaneur:
Where's that pic of Malcolm Matheson, 'solo' on Punks, drinking beer in his flip-flips and a hanky on his head when you need it....
 Dave C 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Jon Read:

It was either Jon Muir or John Sherman in that pic, not HB.

I'm sure I have a copy of it here somewhere but with the renovation-induced chaos I currently live in...!
 aln 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Jon Read: Oh, that move. Do that all the time.
 Jon Read 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Dave C:
Cheers Dave, found it:
http://www.chesslerbooks.com/eCart/catalog/s/Sherman_Drinking_Climber.jpg

Sorry to all for the thread wandering off topic. Well done Gaz; fancy dress pics welcome.
 nz Cragrat 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Dave C:

Sherman
 nz Cragrat 05 Jun 2008
In reply to nz Cragrat:

...on Lord of the Rings wasn't it
 Adam Lincoln 05 Jun 2008
In reply to nz Cragrat:
> (In reply to nz Cragrat)
>
> ...on Lord of the Rings wasn't it

Yes, was about to say thats not Punks. Is indeed Lord Of The Rings, on Henry Bolte wall. Now thats very very Ballsy as holds are not the best there!
 Jon Read 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Surely he's secretly clipped into one of the Rings?
 Dave C 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Jon Read:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> Surely he's secretly clipped into one of the Rings?

Indeed, he was (there's a waist belt hiding under the shirt.)
 seagull 05 Jun 2008
IIRC there was a different piture of someone doing something similar on Punks. Not drinking beer but with one flip flop falling off, looking to be totally gripped etc. Can't find it mind.
 Jon Read 05 Jun 2008
In reply to seagull:
I'm pretty sure the Sherman/LOTR shot has a falling flip-flop; can't see it in that piddly rubbish jpg above though.
 seagull 05 Jun 2008
In reply to Jon Read:

No it was from a totally different angle. Irrelevant anyway as I can't find the bast*rd!
 gaz parry 05 Jun 2008
Here is a vid of "La Rose...." with Andy Earl on his flash attempt

youtube.com/watch?v=3gtF9auDR5s&
 gaz parry 05 Jun 2008
Here is a vid of "La Rose...." with Andy Earl on his flash attempt

youtube.com/watch?v=3gtF9auDR5s&
 smithaldo 05 Jun 2008
In reply to gaz parry:

are you going to free the second pitch on eternal flame?
 gaz parry 05 Jun 2008
In reply to smithaldo: Have you some useful info? Can you mail me at contact@gazparry.co.uk
 Tyler 05 Jun 2008
In reply to seagull:

I'm pretty sure it was one from the same sequence becuase the one I remebr was slightly different to this in as much as the beer bottle was in his pocket and I distinctly remember the falling flip flop because I nearly commented on it myself earlier. It was for an advert wasn't it?
 seagull 06 Jun 2008
In reply to gaz parry:
> Here is a vid of "La Rose...." with Andy Earl on his flash attempt
>
> youtube.com/watch?v=3gtF9auDR5s&

Bloody good effort. He fell off on the easy bit!

Worth noting that Nic Sellars got about as close to flashing it in (about) 1992 which would have been the hardest flash in the world at the time.
 Adam Lincoln 07 Jun 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Ste Mac repeated Dr Crimp the other day. (Very quickly!)
 Michael Ryan 07 Jun 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

His second hardest flash.
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