/ NEWS: Gaz Parry - New Kilnsey 8b+ - Then On To Trango Tower!
Gaz has a date with several international bouldering competitions, then he is up-scaling slightly:
"I am off to Trango in Pakistan on the 26th August to attempt to free climb the classic 31 pitch Eternal Flame route on The Nameless Tower with Jerry Gore and a Euro team - most of whom I met in Madagascar in 2006."
Read More: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=06&year=2008#n44643
Have i missed something in the article or a past new route? but it says ste Mc did a quick repeat of "A Quick Fixe" at kilnsey where is this route?
The opening paragraph of the report is Gaz reporting on his new 8b+ Dr Crimp.
crossing through with hands, in an over-armn style... bad description, bad picture here
That route ("Rose et la Vampire") is what gave it the name.
Actually gives me the opportunity to show one of my favourite photos of one of my fave climbers. Here he is, Antoine Le Menestral, FA of La Rose et la Vampire, on that very same move:
That's my Ace trumped!
In a similar vein...
Where's that pic of Malcolm Matheson, 'solo' on Punks, drinking beer in his flip-flips and a hanky on his head when you need it....
It was either Jon Muir or John Sherman in that pic, not HB.
I'm sure I have a copy of it here somewhere but with the renovation-induced chaos I currently live in...!
Cheers Dave, found it:
Sorry to all for the thread wandering off topic. Well done Gaz; fancy dress pics welcome.
...on Lord of the Rings wasn't it
> ...on Lord of the Rings wasn't it
Yes, was about to say thats not Punks. Is indeed Lord Of The Rings, on Henry Bolte wall. Now thats very very Ballsy as holds are not the best there!
Surely he's secretly clipped into one of the Rings?
> Surely he's secretly clipped into one of the Rings?
Indeed, he was (there's a waist belt hiding under the shirt.)
I'm pretty sure the Sherman/LOTR shot has a falling flip-flop; can't see it in that piddly rubbish jpg above though.
No it was from a totally different angle. Irrelevant anyway as I can't find the bast*rd!
are you going to free the second pitch on eternal flame?
I'm pretty sure it was one from the same sequence becuase the one I remebr was slightly different to this in as much as the beer bottle was in his pocket and I distinctly remember the falling flip flop because I nearly commented on it myself earlier. It was for an advert wasn't it?
Bloody good effort. He fell off on the easy bit!
Worth noting that Nic Sellars got about as close to flashing it in (about) 1992 which would have been the hardest flash in the world at the time.
Ste Mac repeated Dr Crimp the other day. (Very quickly!)
His second hardest flash.
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