/ NEW ARTICLE & ACTION VIDEO: Neil Dickson on sight - E8
Neil Dickson made an extremely impressive onsight attempt. The route was dirty and difficult to follow, the climbing was hard and extremely serious. Four hours in to his ascent, Neil found himself high on the route, having passed the crux and facing one tricky move to reach easy ground. His protection was very poor, a tiny RP and a pencil-tip flake... then his foot slipped...
Watch the video - with John Redhead:
Very impressive stuff! Great effort. Was Neil on the face for four hours?! Was there a rest ledge somewhere or a downclimb to the ground or something?
I think that is the case though.
Impressive Neil - well done.
It's good to see that on-sight, ground up climbing isn't dead yet and it's good to see people like Neil getting into it at a hard core level.
Brilliant footage and sage words from JR about the value of onsighting stuff.
Now THAT is a seal of approval!!! On-Sight will be awesome...
The best bit is John R making out like a football manager - 'the boy will have learned from that'. Plus Neil D sounding like an enthusiastic and slightly inarticulate beginner at Stanage. Strangely touching.
One for the Crow has a similar shot of Margins. Beautiful striations higher up the wall. Why isn't Aries famous? How many easy HVSses have positions like that?
This is dynamite, a real coup getting JR involved. His essay on Margins in ...and one for the crow is possibly my favourite piece of climbing writing. I can't help thinking my own meagre contribution to this film will be on the cutting room floor by now. Inspirational stuff, can't wait to see more!
Yes, must have added a definite resonance to the ascent.
Thought JR was looking pretty limber actually. He reminded me a bit of that famous photo in one of the SW guides of Keith Darbyshire, reclining on an elbow like that.
A lion couchant I thought, to continue his animal simile.
I agree - super-inspirational. I haven't had anything on a web site or in a mag make my palms sweat like that for quite a while. Can't wait to see the film.
Totally agree with comments ref Redhead et al still representing the cutting edge of trad. Headpointing isn't traditional climbing - this sort of endeavour most certainly is.
People have commented that some of his routes like The Bells, The Bells or indeed even Margins... follow contrived lines. I just don't see this. When you drop a rope down a blank wall and head-point a route, often the most logical thing to do is top rope up in a straight line, ignoring easier possibilities. To me these are the contrived lines. Climbers like John would follow the easiest and most natural lines to climb from the ground and the result is a route that feels like the logical way to go when you're climbing it, not looking at it from a distance.
Or more to the point close up with blinkers.
Redhead after all did preinspect and rehearse moves as well just not extensively as has become commonplace (Dawes also) so I am not sure the straightening influence of the top rope per se has as much to do with it as an individuals eye for a line and imagination.
No one could argue that Redhead doesn't have a fervent imagination.
Why has the video gone?
I don't kow what you're saying, but yes, especially when the easier possibilities have already been done as part of other routes or are trivial, then the logical thing to do is to ignore them (I would say after haivng climbed them first).
i want to see the video as well! why has this clip gone?
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