UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

as a non boulderer i reckon that must be very hard.

does this mean Leah is concentrating more on bouldering atm?

In reply to Morgan Woods:
As i understand it mate she has always been more bouldering focused. And think she is on the british bouldering team as well.

Cheers
tim

In reply to tbertenshaw:

Leah is really focused on bouldering at the moment, and has been the last couple of years. She isn't in the British Team at the moment, through choice, she decided to take a little time out of international competitions, but is considering rejoining if invited this summer.

I think whats really impressive for Leah, is how fast her two 7c ascents have been, the first one (Dr Crimp in Chironico) took about 45 mins and her second (Bach Block in Brione) two sessons lasting less than an hour and a half each. She's moving to Sheffield soon, so hopefully will find a very hard project and be able to put a lot of time into it!

In reply to Chris M:
All credit to Leah, she's going well and I expect she will only improve.

But is it really news when there's ladies cranking out 8a+/8b across the world. And a few females in the UK have climbed harder that 7c.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: looks nice in brione. is it a similar sandstone to font?

In reply to bentley's biceps:

It's not internationally significant, no, but in the UK scene, 7c is cutting edge. I could be wrong, but I think the only 7c+'s done by British ladies thus far have been Ben's traverse and Brad Pit. It'll be interesting to see if in the next few years, someone can reach the magic number 8...

In reply to robin mueller:

..... Clare Murphy's stuff at Hueco?? (V11 I think)

In reply to Tyler:

True, I forgot about Claire Murphy!

Claire Murphy:

"I hope that I am not forgotten about back in England, especially among aspiring female climbers. Although I currently live in the US, I am still very much British and hope that my accomplishments abroad will inspire women back home. At 36 years old and with a two-year-old to chase around, I still feel as capable as ever when pursuing hard climbing. Now, if I could just win the lottery and climb where and when I wanted..."

http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=6129

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=1024

http://tubeguide.tv/claire-murphy-sends-chablanke-v12/33/

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I don't get the formula for reporting some of the news on UKC? How is it that though numerous men are climbing first ascents (proper news) of top class lines often of 8a and above - surely this is still more impressive than a female climbing 7c? - it receives no airtime on here. But when a girl, who is essentially a professional climber, climbs a 7c (not even an FA or flash) in Switzerland it's big news?

I agree it's a good effort but is it really more news worthy than say Nick Clements ascent of Nuclear Transplant (8a+) at Woodwell, Dan Warren's FA of Metal Slug (8a+) at the Tube, Dan Varians' ascent of A Bigger Belly (8a+/b) at Rubicon or even Chris Doyles' FA of what is probably the best limestone problem of its grade in the UK? I think not.

In reply to Apollo:

Interestingly I just noticed this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=310123

This is exactly the sort of thing I like to read about, local goings on at a decent standard, proper grassroots stuff. I'm certainly not saying this sort of thing shouldn't be posted as news but, again, is this really more impressive than people climbing new Font8a+'s?

In reply to Apollo:

so this "new" route moves from an existing route into another existing route to an independent finish....talk about exciting!

In reply to Apollo:


I don't get why people get annoyed. This is a good effort and I'm glad it's reported as it gives us a view on where British women's climbing is. If, as you say, Leah is essentialy a professional climber then she is going to report her best ascents and UKC will publish them. The other ascentionists you mention obviously haven't done so other than on UKB and, be honest, if UKC just lifted those news items there would be the usual slagging that goes on of UKC on UKB.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

I was only using that item as an example, I wasn't after a debate on whether you think limestone link-ups are interesting.

It was merely an attempt to state that while I think it's worthwhile posting local news, is it more newsworthy than first ascents of lines of an extremely high standard. Less we forget; in real terms there are only three grades above 8a+.

In reply to Tyler:

Nor do I. It is not as if news reporting is limited by space and the editors need to judiciously edit stuff out, especially on the internet. And anyways, since when is 7c ‘old hat’ for women?

More importantly - well done Leah! You're an inspiration.

In reply to Apollo:

i wasn't denigrating the achievement....making short work of an 8a is admirable but hardly world class.

"only 3 grades above 8a+" are we talking bouldering grades??

In reply to Tyler:

I'm not annoyed in the slightest. I have no problem with this item being reported, I'm just saying if UKC is attempting to take over the mantle of the aggregating news force the mags once were (an assumption on my part) they need to have some sort of balance to their news reports. I realize they can't report everything but surely start by reporting top-end FA's and worthwhile 2nd/3rd ascents before reporting mildly interesting repeats...especially from Switzerland


Perhaps so, but is that really a reason to not report real news?

In reply to Apollo:


What's the hardest problem climbed by a woman, has a confimed 8b (or harder) been done? A few 8c+s have been claimed haven't they so the difference between 7c and 8b is about the same as that between 8a+ and 8c+ and I'd guess more men have bouldered 8a+ than women have bouldered 7c. That said, I'm not trying to suggest that one is more noteworthy than the other, I like to read about them all, then again, I'd happily read about what 7cs blokes have been climbing. As far asI'm concerned the more stuff there is on people climbing the happier I am and I'd guess those that really care will be able to judge for themeselves the merits of each ascent.

In reply to Jenn:

Look I'm not dismissing Leah's ascent, I've already said it's impressive. I'm just asking why this is more news worthy than the sends listed above. Plus, not too long ago I believe another young lady sent Rock Atrocity. As I recall this was not reported on here, where's the even handedness there? Surely that's more impressive and they're both women. Perhaps one was sponsored and the other wasn't?

In reply to Apollo:


What are you implying?


I'd say not but I'm sure not everyone would agree. Maybe UKC needs a bouldering correspondent (with enough credibility to lift news wholesale from UKB!)

I guess the problem is that some people are reluctant to publish their ascents which mabe skews peoples perceptions a little.

In reply to Tyler:

I agree Tyler and I agree with Greg.

I think at least once a month we need a bouldering round up, some great stuff going on.

Do we have a volunteer - a keen boulderer who can write and who can do a summary of uk bouldering ascents.

Mick

In reply to Apollo:

We agree

>I'm just asking why this is more news worthy than the sends listed above.

I suspect it's due more to said person’s PR campaign rather than a value set of what's important for news editors.

>Plus, not too long ago I believe another young lady sent Rock Atrocity. As I recall this was not reported on here, where's the even handedness there? Surely that's more impressive and they're both women.

Debbie Corbet (sic?). Yep, that was amazing. I read about it in the now defunct Gravity magazine.

>Perhaps one was sponsored and the other wasn't?

LC is sponsored, no idea about Debbie. I understand your train of thought, but I don't think it is anywhere near as sinister as you are implying. I believe news reporting is haphazard and I would suspect that people who are sponsored are more likely to report notable ascents simply because they are used to.

For example, if the world came to an end and I did something notable, um maybe I would tell my mates and put it on my blog, who next to no one ever reads. If however I was a pro I suspect I would be in regular contact with the 'powers that be' and word would spread much more quickly.

But anyway, I do agree with you on another point – I would like to hear more on here about notable FA’s and the like.

In reply to Tyler:

Well put - that's what I was trying to say!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Most people seem to visit Magic Wood in Spring and Autumn....is this a little bit out of season ie hot and greasy?

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

A little aside but does anyone know the current standing here in regard to Brione?

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7179.0.html

Please DO NOT climb at Sonlerto (Dosage 3 and 4) or Brione (village area). The locals and land owners are VERY angry to say the least and have threatened to spray the boulders with grease if people climb there!!! Talks are under way between local developers and residents to try and negotiate the allowance of climbing in the winter months but sadly, so far nothing has been agreed.

In reply to Apollo: We report a lot of news. If we don't hear about something then we can't report it. It really is that simple!

Both Mick and myself do a fair bit of 'web trawling' for news, and we have agreements with lots of sites that we 'swap' news with, also Mick and I get news from the horses mouth quite often too, me usually with trad - but we also rely heavily on users to submit news too. I've just got a cracker from Mark Reeves that I'm working on right now - with video and photo's - thanks Mark!!

So if you hear about an awesome bouldering ascent that you think is news worthy - feel free to send us the info - we'd really appreciate it as I'd love to cover more bouldering. It can be tricky to accurately cover bouldering as much of the news is either extremely complex or the people involved are hard to get hold of. Also we try and cover a wide range of news - from bouldering to footpath erosion, BMC stuff, general mountain interest, Himalayas etc.

All help greatly appreciated!

Jack

In reply to Jenn:

On a fairly major tangent (though I think very relevant to the slight tangent already going on here!), I was pondering about the Geraldine Taylor Kaylmnos 8a onsight kerfuffle in late May / early June. UKC news article, long thread, people up in arms, article pulled, a phone call to Geraldine, Geraldine says words to the affect that she climbs for herself, isn't bothered about what other people think, isn't that bothered about whether she'd gone off route, and is happy to have the article pulled.

I didn't quite understand how and why there'd been a UKC article about the ascent in the first place, if Geraldine hadn't in some way either made the information available or at the very least allowed publication. Iirc her comments didn't draw any further discussion, yet I at least found them rather striking.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I appreciate you may not have time to report everything and trawl the web constantly, but actually how long does it take to check the local area sites once a month and do a round up. It's your prerogative what you report I was just trying to give some feedback of how it sometimes comes across.

I already run a local site for nothing (my prerogative) so why should I report stuff to you - a commercial enterprise. That said, I'm quite happy for you to post news from my site providing it has the usual links back (as I'm sure most other local area sites would). It's just lazy to say you can't report news if people don't report it, it's mostly out there and it's pretty easy to find.

In reply to Apollo: Hi Apollo, feed back appreciated.

Increasing bouldering news is at the top of our content agenda.


Jack

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Hey Jack, I'm a keen boulderer and would like to know who (and how) to get in contact with when I manage to do some new ascents that are noteworthy.

Thank you!

In reply to Sircumfrins:

UKbouldering.com

In reply to nz Cragrat: Just e-mail that address an report it? Is it that simple?

In reply to nz Cragrat:


lol

In reply to nz Cragrat:


I know what you mean. Made me laugh too. Bouldering has been and is very much part of climbing, always has been. But some like to profit from its perceived exclusivity (Simon and co. come to mind....can't blame them).

I can comment I've been there.

Proof is that that the UKB hardcore after or often before they visit UKB head to UKClimbing.com. The statistics show this.

Yes, more bouldering action at UKClimbing.com.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


Mick your comments are probably just another troll, but I can't let bullshit like this pass without comment.

Surely Mick, I would profit more from its 'inclusivity', if you can call the small amount of money I make from bouldering related stuff 'profit'. Is there not regular NWB.com news items featuring on UKC? I think there is one there right now. (maybe you forgot to look?)

The fact is that people like myself and Greg (with Lakesbloc) put a lot of effort into documenting bouldering developments online. If we didn't do it who would? Surely you are grateful that this information is made available?

And as for UKB - we've been over this many times; is it not better that UKC faces some competition (however statistically insignificant, before you start quoting figures at me), that there is some element of choice on the internet. I like UKC (and I read bits of it pretty much every week day), but I also like UKB, and the latter, despite the name is not just a bouldering site, far from it.

(You wind up merchant - made me bite. Note to self, must ignore Mick, must ignore MIck...)

This problem is in the riverbed area and hence no where near the village area where there are no access issues (you can tell by the photo of the water worn boulders).

In the UK there are certainly a lot less women climbing 7c than guys climbing 8a+. There are basically a few women climbing at or slightly above that level but not with huge consistency. On the other hand there are significantly more guys climbing 8a+ and climbing it consistently. So for me that makes it news worthy, particulalry at a UK level. Guys climbing 8a+ is also news worthy whether 1st ascents or repeats. 8a+ is bloody hard.

I know for a fact that other women boulderers will be hugely interested in this and it will be motivational / inspirational.

In reply to andy harris:

>> This problem is in the riverbed area and hence no where near the village area where there are no access issues (you can tell by the photo of the water worn boulders).

Hello Andy,

I was not criticising Leah’s great effort in my question – I was just asking what the current situation was in the Brione area; so I and others know how the situation was on the ground since James’s message was rather strong on the ukbouldering forum (if now a little dated). The area around Brione is very beautiful with fantastic bouldering potentials – just would not like to upset the locals.

In reply to andy harris: Well said Andy!

In reply to Simon Panton at home:

Totally agree.

Mick

In reply to Simon Panton at home:

Well at least I gave you a chance to rant.