UKC

Following from Chris's 1000th climb on Stanage (congratulations again!) it became apparent that my numbers of routes did not tally with his so I rechecked and here are the results:

The easy bit first: there are 1613 numbered routes and problems (1277 routes and 336 problems)

The hard bit now. On my lists I've got 1425 named and graded routes. This is hard to work out as this includes: 75 routes also given bouldering grades (for the whole route); a few (3?) typos (including "the direct" on step ladder crack, which should have been in bold text). It does not include the missing routes (like The High Neb Girdle Traverse) or routes with bouldering grades just for the starts. These were hand counted and could contain errors.

My route data is as follows, broken into the three areas (north, plantation, popular and south):

E 1, 0, 0
M 5, 7, 8
D 20, 15, 17
HD 5, 5, 7
VD 30, 17, 37
HVD 12, 8, 15
S 47, 28, 49
HS 47, 33, 37
VS 101, 64, 93
HVS 83, 56, 89
E1 44, 49, 52
E2 27, 44, 35
E3 19, 39, 31
E4 22, 18, 23
E5 7, 21, 8
E6 5, 18, 14
E7 1, 3, 4
E8 2, 0, 0

Plus Ron's Traverse at E5

In reply to Offwidth:

if my caculator skills are correct (i couldn't be bothered to add up mentally)

the 1000 routes can easily be broken without climbing that hard, as by my caculations there are 1086 routes at E1 or below! Though i guess that will include some seriourly doggy no star hvs/e1s that most people would avoid

graeme

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

There are well known softer E2's I'd rather try and onsight than headpoint some of the HVS climbs that Ive already seconded or toproped!

In reply to Graeme Hammond: I made it 1045 but then I can't count. The point is that there are 1000 <=E1 climbs which can only be a good thing. Incidently, if you climb regulaly with Chris Tan, anything at Stanage is amazing!

In reply to Offwidth:

I think we are getting there your 1425 is pretty close to my 1415.

I included boulder problems that get route grade (eg Not to Be Taken Away) but didn't include things like "it has a Direct Finish VS 4b" as I couldn't decide if this was really a separate entry.

Chris

PS I did Pie Face at the weekend (amongst others) A VS 4b with a crux that is similar to but harder than the top-out on Right Unconquerable!

In reply to Chris Craggs:

I don't think I included Ron's Traverse so I have 1416, and Michael's Legacy is the top 'pitch' of Double Act bringing yours down to 1424 maybe?


Chris

In reply to Jon Dittman:

if you climb regulaly with Chris Tan, anything at Stanage is amazing!

amazing is putting a man on the moon, NOTHING at stanage is amazing, its only grit at the end of the day.

centurion05

In reply to Chris Craggs:

NTBA doesnt have a route grade this time (although it maybe should) so I didn't count it.

Pie Face is a short route but with a bloody unnerving finish. I think the top out is easier than the finish of RU (where in addition most HVS leaders arrive tired).

All routes I included have a name and a grade (no variations unless given a seperate name like 'Bridge's' etc).

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Michael's Legacy climbs the upper arete strictly on its left.

In reply to Offwidth:

SO does Double Act - its the obvious way to go when you get there. The FA (a certain Stanage 1K completer) has accepted that they are the same route.

You are right about NTBTA - but it deserves a 'proper' grade at least as much as Crescent Arete!

Chris

In reply to centurion05:

Putting a man on the moon was a likely result of the science, engineering and politics of the time: in that it's not especially amazing although it was immensely impressive, difficult and (still is) expensive. I'd add there are no recorded grit routes on the moon and low gravity would spoil things anyway.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Pinning these things down is always a problem. If DA was first climbed on the left of the upper arete then the name and FA info for ML simply needs to be deleted next time. IMHO the main named line should take the easiest way up a feature not just the FA method of doing it.

As another example I know of people who thought Overton Arete (at Turning Stone) stayed on the right and more who though it meant any old way (same grade both sides or a combination thereoff); then the right side got claimed as a new E1 route

In reply to Offwidth:

We did (Double Act) by the easiest sequence we found. Maybe the description could have been clearer?

Re Quark/Graviton - this is my current understanding of the lines

http://upload.pbase.com/image/102487029/original

Oddly when I checked by old 1983 Quark is pencilled in and underlined in red - meaning it was my first ascent!! At HS "A left to right crossing Meson"!

Chris

In reply to centurion05:

You clearly need to ask Chris to take you climbing at Dovestones Quarry then!

In reply to Jon Dittman:

Don't worry I've climbed a fair bit with Chris on obscurities. Hoped to meet you at last at Shooter's but you wern't there!? Going to the peak meet at Glossup?

In reply to Chris Craggs:

OK but the line you show for Quark seems very close if not the same as the way I started Ventured Point and the way I finished Lepton.

In reply to Offwidth:

That seems very possible, though it predated the latter at least by years.

I never said it was any good - or was that another route?

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs: Have you done Ventured Point. That was bloody desperate at HS 4b!! My vote is still for HVS 5b if you stay on the right of the arete.

In reply to Chris Craggs:
Michael's Legacy is dead, long live Double Trouble, climb the same arete but totally on its right side (facing in) tricky little number at HVS 5b.

In reply to Offwidth:

Not done that - another one to go and check.

Chris

In reply to Offwidth:

Been a bit delayed (busy) but here are the equivalent bouldering stats. 414 named problems, 75 of which also got route status. Again broken into the three areas, north, plantation, popular and south:

V0- 3, 23,20
V0 5, 18, 8
V0+ 3, 8, 1
V1 8, 26, 26
V2 12, 17, 12
V3 7, 20, 12
V4 9, 24, 12
V5 6, 23, 10
V6 3, 14, 5
V7 5, 17, 4
V8 3, 12, 4
V9 3, 13, 1
V10 1, 6, 0
V11 1, 5, 0
V12 0, 1, 0
V13 0, 3, 0

In reply to Offwidth:

Again, these were hand counted and could contain errors.

In reply to Offwidth:

I did 5 more on Sunday

Slab and Crack - worthwhile, needs a separate entry
Kinell, unlikely but good, might just be HVS. Worth a star
Horn, tough start (for big lads!)
Solo Fun
Fun Solo


That 1012 to date!


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Finally started transferring stuff into the new guide last night and sorting out my next set of tick lists. I was well over the 750 mark in the old guide but this missed a good deal of the last minute checking I did for '07 and most of the new lines.

In reply to Offwidth:
Summing the numbers between D and E2 gives
D 52
HD 17
VD 84
HVD 35
S 124
HS 117
VS 258
HVS 228
E1 145
E2 106
This would suggest that the grades HD and HVD are not that significant.
Putting these into D and VD gives
D 69
VD 119
S 124
HS 117
VS 258
HVS 228
E1 145
E2 106
Now if you expect an even spread of routes in these grades then the VS and HVS grades are about twice as wide as the rest. Alternatively if you expect a normal type distribution of grades then combining S and HS gives
D 69
VD 119
S 241
VS 258
HVS 228
E1 145
E2 106
which is fairly well balanced with a modal value of VS. So you could argue either for the splitting of VS and HVS into subgrades, or the merging of S and HS!

In reply to O. C. Curmudgeon:

Why would you expect a normal distribution?

PS I'm working on increasing the HD and HVD grades.