In reply to DaisyClimbing:
Hi Daisy,
here are some of the route descriptions. I have not sent them to anybody yet, so hope you enjoy the routes. A great place!
Mark
New routes - Pellitras Point
Seal of Approval E5 6a 20m **
This climbs the striking crackline to the horizontal break just right of the obvious arête.
1. 20m 6a Pull up into the crack and follow it to the break. Traverse left 3 meters until a sequence of moves gains the easier ground above.
FA: Mark Edwards, Rowland Edwards
Note: A grey Atlantic seal witnessed the whole ascent.
Stamp of Approval E6 6b/c 20m *
A harder direct finish to Seal of Approval with thin hard moves above the crack, and finish up the slab above.
FA: Mark Edwards (solo)
The Elegant Universe E7 6c 20m **
Hard and technical climbing with small cam protection. This climb takes the series of thin crack/ flakes up the wall right of Seal of Approval.
1. 20m 6a Pull up to the first break and climb the bold wall via the sharp thin flakes/ cracks. Make bold moves to gain the upper slab.
FA: Mark Edwards (solo)
Simply Einstein E6 6b 20m *
This takes the obvious thin crackline just left of the Pollyvia start moves.
1. 20m 6b Make good moves to gain the horizontal break at 4 meters. Move up to the thin crack and follow it to the slab above. Move up unto the right headwall and follow this (no gear on this wall) to easier ground.
FA: Mark Edwards, Harriet Mason
New Routes - Pellitras Zawn
Watermark E7 6c 25m ***
This route is a classic line, many small protection sizes. Abseil in or from left ledges. Start: off the large boulder, at low tide and small swell size, at the mouth of the zawn.
1. 6c 25m Step off the boulder and follow the thin finger crack up the steep wall. Climb the crack to a ledge and continue up the arête (right side) to the top. Descent across the ridge.
FA: Mark Edwards, Rowland Edwards August 2006
Adrenalin Tide E9 6c/7a 25m ***
Outrageous climbing, bold and very technically powerful, with complex moves. Abseil in or traverse from left onto boulder as for Watermark. Start: off the boulder at low tide and small swell size.
1. 6c/ 7a 25m Step off the boulder and move across scoop ledges to the right to a vague crack. Pull up boldly (wet during my ascent) and make hard moves over a bulge to gain a thin horizontal break. Powerful moves up again reach a single pocket in the wall. Use this to reach the next break and climb direct to the start of a vein and follow on improving holds to the top.
FA: Mark Edwards, Rowland Edwards August 2006
Tide Master E4 5c 25m ***
This takes the obvious central groove line. A mixture of techniques and fine climbing.
1. 5c 25m Start from the boulder at low tide. Move up the cracks to enter the groove. Steepening climbing and restricted moves lead to an open corner. Follow to the top.
FA: Mark Edwards, Rowland Edwards August 2007
Temple of Darkness E6 6b 25m ***
Start: from the back of the boulder-filled zawn (abseil in).
1. 6b 25m Step off the boulder (bold)and traverse left along a horizontal break (exposed). To a point it is possible to pull up to a second break (hard). Pull up to a shallow pocket and pull up to another break (hard and bold). Move up left to enter an easy groove to reach the top of the ridge.
FA: Mark Edwards August 2006
Mist of Time E3 5b/c 25m ***
A classic line.
1. 5b/c 25m Start off the boulder as for Temple of Darkness and move up to follow the leftwards diagonal fault line and finish up the top groove.
FA: Mark Edwards, Robert Southall August 2006
Mist of Time (direct variation) E3 5b/c 25m *
Start as for Temple of Darkness and climb direct and then right to enter the vertical groove/ chimney line on the right.
FA: Mark Edwards, Robert Southall August 2006
The Lost Zawn E5 6a 25m *
This takes the obvious prow between the two chimney lines.
1. 6a 25m Start up the right hand chimney (Life in the Asylum) for one move and swing left onto the black face. Climb up slightly diagonally leftwards before moving back onto the centre of the pillar. Follow the centre moving from horizontal break to horizontal break, with some long reaches, and so to the top.
FA: Mark Edwards, Rowland Edwards September 2006
Life in the Asylum E5 6a 25m **
Start below the obvious deep chimney (needs dry conditions).
1. 6a 25m Climb up the off-width chimney to reach a good thread on the left at half height. Pull powerfully out of the chimney to climb the right facing groove above.
FA: Mark Edwards, Rowland Edwards
Mutant in a Desert of Armchair Heroes E6 6a 25m
Start within the large boulders at the back of the zawn and below a black wall right of the chimney of Life in the Asylum.
1. 6a 25m Step boldly onto the wall (mind the gap!) and climb the delicate wall to reach your first protection at a considerable height. Now move up and leftwards to reach the top via a short narrow groove.
FA: Mark Edwards, Robert Southall
This is not all the routes, about another 20 missing from this list.