UKC

Just interested as to what everyone thinks is the best and also the hardest dyno on Yorkshire grit?

In reply to Ben: Off FH's wife when you hear him punting up the pathway.

In reply to l applat: probably the most practiced as well.

In reply to l applat: it might be popular, but its always f*cking greasy...

In reply to Ben:
Buckstone is always good and there are a few on the edge its self which iv done but their not graded or named

In reply to Simon Tyler: aye, and too easy, must try the rubbishy dyno instead.

In reply to l applat: ah yes. apparently it's a bit of a highball - taller than rubbishy's used to anyway. looks fairly straighforward, but one you get your hands on it becomes quite a fight. interesting finish - huge jugs, but still manages to draw blood...

In reply to Simon Tyler: but soft landing since rubbishy will be at the bottom having 'twisted his ankle somehow' or 'too hungover to climb' etc

In reply to Ben:

Here's my top 10: http://www.rockfax.com/rocktalk/t.php?t=24270.

In reply to jon: deliverance is the best 1 in yorkshire

In reply to jon: cheers jon, I have never seen Ron's Crease so will check it out soon.

In reply to mark s:
deliverance is the best 1 in yorkshire
I mean the bit of Yorkshire outside of the peak.

In reply to Ben:
isn't the peak in Derbyshire?

In reply to Kev Wynne:

Not all of it! It is in Yorkshire, Staffordshire and Derbyshire

In reply to Ben:

Deliverance is in Derbyshire.

In reply to Ben:

Name a peak crag in Yorkshire?

In reply to l applat:

Slopers wife is 4'6" so she eaven to short for Jon to dyno!
But while Slops is out playing with his cushion she can be found in the Bull Yard on Daventry St. taking it up the dirt box from the locals for a shilling a time.

It supplements her housekeeping as the old front wheeler blows his cash on Havana cigars to impress the chickens of Leamington Spa.

In reply to FH:

Burbage south for a start. And Burbage North, and Higgar Tor, and Millstone, and the Secret Garden, and Carl Wark, and Over Owler Tor, and Mother Cap, and The Ox Stones, and Houndkirk Tor, Rivelin, Agden Rocher etc.

In reply to daveP:

Well ok, I'll not dispute the county border on Bubage moor, I'd of said Millstone was derbyshire, the others I dont know.

But hey ho they are all crap compared to proper Yorkshire Grit!

In reply to FH: 1. its Euro's now you peasant 2. what I spend my dosh on is my business.

In reply to FH:

I think the boudary runs along the surprise-view road below the crag, so Millstone is Yorks, but Lawrencefield is Derbys.


That'll keep me laughing well into the year 2030, foil suits, monorails, teleporters, food in tablet form etc etc.

In reply to daveP:


Secretely, deep in your heart, I think you know that Yorkshire is best.

You're right about Millstone unfortunately. I'll be campaigning to have the Yorkshire/Derbyshire boundary moved so we're not tainted with such rubbish. We might keep the Secret Garden and the Attitude Inspector though.

In reply to jon:

This from the man who stole the gem in Lancashire's crown, Thorn Crag, for his Yorkshire deviancies. I'll do better than a "crag comment" for my new problem and all the others that are near completion up at the crag itself (including the nicest slab around?) when we've done them and got pics.

In reply to NeilK:

I've been researching the ancient records and I've discovered that the manager of the Thorn Crag estate opted to be part of Yorkshire when the country was split up in counties in the 4th century AD. So you see, I'm not stealing it at all, it really is part of Yorkshire. Nothing I can do about it!

In reply to daveP:

Come now dave, Yorkshire bouldering is the finest bouldering on grit in the world. What does the peak have to offer that realy compares with:

Almscliff

Brandrith

Bridestones

Brimham

Caley


Crookrise

Deer Gallows

Earl Crag

Fairies Chest

Flasby Fell

Gorple

Hellifield Crag

Huller Stones

Ilkley

Lord's Seat

Rylstone

Shipley Glen

Simon's Seat

Slipstones

Swastika Stones

Sypeland


Thruscross

Widdop

In reply to FH:

That list looks strangely familiar...

In reply to jon:

My cut & paste skills are legendary.

In reply to FH:

I'm not saying yorkshire doens't have excellent bouldering, it does, but for me the peak is a but classier, and generally slightly better rock (except for the Slipstones). For example, less carved initials, chipped holds etc.

Take Almscliff for example, has some great problems but much overrated. The rock seems to wear very fast, theres carved names all over the place and shit everywhere, and theres not actually that much bouldering there, plus a lot of the classics are overgraded. Caley is great but largely green most of the winter. Brimham is great but a bit too touristy. Earl is good but slightly overrated.

All those other crags are all very well much most are much too remote to become major venues. I always hear yorkshire boulderers saying "the peak is crap, possished and worn out and worked out" when actually they mean stanage plantation, cos thats the only place they ever go. Within 15 mins drive of stanage there as masses of quality unspoilt bouldering at many venues, away from the crouds, but where is there within 15mins of almscliff? caley maybe, but its green....

Funny how the yorkshire boulderers are always spraying about how its the best place and better than the peak, but the peakies don't feel the need to reciprocate. Its a bit like the yourkshire boulderers are a bit insecure about it so keep going on about it, whereas we don't have to spray about it cos we know peak is best.

In reply to daveP:
"All those other crags are all very well much most are much too remote to become major venues." Hope your right about that bit, but come on the rest of what you say is tosh (other than Almscliff).

Earl has some fantastic problems on the very finest of grit. As does Widdop.

In reply to daveP:

Almscliff is the Yorkshire equivalent of the Plantation, but it's more extensive. Caley isn't green all winter and has masses of problems. Earl isn't overrated, it's excellent. Brimham has lots of tourists, but not many of them hang out around Acme Wall, for example. Compare these places to Burbage North (one good buttress that's usually got 20 people on it), Burbage South (half a dozen nice boulders but nothing amazing), Cratcliff (two or three decent problems and the rest is utterly forgettable), and the winner is clear. On top of that we've got wild moorland edges (Crookrise, Rylstone, Lord's Seat etc) that the Peak doesn't have any equivalent of (for bouldering).

But really we just love to wind you up!

In reply to FH:

Like what?

In reply to daveP:

"but where is there within 15mins of almscliff? "

Adventurous are you then Dave, like to get out on those wild moorland boulders. God help you if it was suggested that you might like to visit Sypeland. It might be to much for an old stick in the mud like you.

In reply to jon:


Yes, but also 5 mins from the platation you've got the buckstone, causway slabs, hampers hang, burbage north etc. PLus these don't have carved initial, broken glass under problems (ala Demon wall roof, pebble wall), cow shit everywhere etc.


What, that one buttress being Banana Finger block, Remergence block, Jason's Roof block, Nicotine stain area, zaff's problem blocks, plus nearby west side story etc.


You obviously never got off the beaten path there, what can you expect. But also within walking distance of secret garden, owler tor etc.


The plain bollocks. Cratcliffe has loads, then theres robin hood stride, 2 mins drive to rowtor, eagle tor, clifftop, stanton moor, etc. In yorkshire there just aint the concettration that there is in the peak. And i haven't even mentioned the staffs bouldering.


Theres loads of stuff on derwent, bleaklow, kinder etc etc. Anyway i'm not arguing, i'll just let the rock speak for itself.

In reply to daveP:

"In yorkshire there just aint the concettration that there is in the peak. And i haven't even mentioned the staffs bouldering"

All fitted into a much slimmer volume that Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering (which doesnt include Slipstones, Sypeland, Huller stones, Lords seat etc) , not to mention Wild bouldering in Yorkshire.

In reply to FH:

I never said there wasn't lots, i just said it isn't in the same concentration, i.e. several good veune you can visit in a day. Anyway remember the peak guide is about 5 years old, and theres loads of new stuff been done since then.

In reply to daveP:

Your position is indefinsible! Admit it and move to Leeds. You're only kidding yourself.

In reply to daveP:

Where as in Yorkshire you can spend a day at one venue, several in fact.

In reply to jon:

That is truly desperate! But if its true, then why wouldn't Dave Musgrove put my routes at Wolfhole in his Yorkshire column, its a few miles East of Thorn? Darn Yorkshiremen...

In reply to Anonymous:

Me btw.

In reply to NeilK:

We gave Wolfhole back to Lancashire when we realised there wasn't any decent bouldering there.

In reply to jon:

Fair point indeed.

In reply to NeilK:

Have you ever explored around Bowland Knotts? There looks like there should be some good bouldering there, but I've never managed to find any.

In reply to jon:

Can't say I have, the only other Forest of Bowland place I've visited is Bull Stones (OK but filthy and not worth the epic dive/walk). Can you give me a GR or a rough location and I might have a look, I'm free tomorrow and on a rest day. Have you been there?

In reply to NeilK:

Bowland Knotts is at 727606. There's a series of broken crags running east and west from the highpoint of the Gisburn Forest to Clapham Station road. I had a look once on a misty day but every buttress I found was disappointing - although I did rescue a trapped lamb so it was a worthwhile trip (for the lamb, anyway!). Cold Stone Crag, mentioned in the Lancashire guide, is at the west end of the escarpment.

There's also Whelpstone Crag (762593) and Scoutber Crag (776603) east of Gisburn Forest. They both look rocky from a distance, but I've never been for a close look.

I can't help thinking there must be a reason why these places haven't been reported as excellent bouldering venues, and the optimist in me says it's because nobody has explored them recently ...

In reply to jon:

Right you are, might go for a peep if its not pissing. Cheers for the info, top man.

In reply to NeilK:

...no promises that there's anything worthwhile there though!