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Weak Steve McClure

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 Jonathan T 27 Nov 2008
He always states how weak he is in comparison to the top sport climbers abroad, in this interview http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/mcclure/index.html he says he can't deadhang from a one handed crimp. I always put this down to modesty but now I'm beginning to believe him! Is he really as weak as he says and if so, is he awesome climbing ability due to tenacity and technique?
 abarro81 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Jonathan T:
Ryan Pasquill told me he can't deadhang a campus rung one handed, and Dave Graham claims to struggle to lock off on one arm...
 UKB Shark 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Jonathan T:

Regarding finger strength he actually says he can deadhang (just) on his right but not on his left but comes into his own on tiny (ting?)holds.
 Andy Moles 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Jonathan T:

Evidence that you don't need to spend hours getting strong in a gym/indoor wall to be a top climber?
Serpico 27 Nov 2008
In reply to AMo:
It's all relative, personally I'd love to be as 'weak' as Steve.
 UKB Shark 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Serpico:

I'd love to be as weak as you

(without all the other stuff that comes with being you obviously)
 Ian Patterson 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Serpico:
> (In reply to AMo)
> It's all relative, personally I'd love to be as 'weak' as Steve.

Indeed! And Steve might not be the very strongest but he can still pull out font 8a cruxes after 20m of french mid 8 climbing. I imagine that takes a bit of training to achieve!

 Andy Moles 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Ian Patterson:

Yeah I know. Just something I want to believe!
 UKB Shark 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Ian Patterson: I imagine that takes a bit of training to achieve!

Well if climbing is training then yes but I think he is not the best example of someone who has achieved thru a dedicated structured training approach compared to say Dave Mac.

There is still something of a conundrum trying to explain why Steve is quite as exceptional as he is - leveraging a wierd alchemy of technique, determination, core strength, low body weight and a type of finger strength that soemhow overcomes lack of reach and (relative) burl.
 Andy Farnell 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Simon Lee: So what you're trying to say is Steve is naturally quite handy...

Andy F
 Reach>Talent 27 Nov 2008
Dear Steve

Thanks a bunch, thats another perfectly good excuse ruined.

Mike (Off to think of a better excuse)
 DaveWarb 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Reach>Talent: His stomping ground was the moors as well! I have absolutely no excuses!

Although, if he started on the moors and hes that good, then maybe...
 Andy Farnell 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Serpico: I keep forgetting how 'weak' you are. After all it's not as if you can boulder 7C and redpoint 8b. Oh, hang on a second...


Andy F
 UKB Shark 27 Nov 2008
In reply to andy farnell: So what you're trying to say is Steve is naturally quite handy...

I suspect 'naturally' has a lot to do with. Applying talent is probably the biggest natural takent of all.

 James Oswald 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Jonathan T:
Was also told by Steve Golley (works with Neil Gresham) that from around the age of 7 he had a woodie in his room and was taken out regularly by his parents at weekends.
 NearlyDutchDan 27 Nov 2008
In reply to james oswald:
> (In reply to Jonathan T)
> ...from around the age of 7 he had a woodie in his room ... taken out regularly by his parents at weekends.

cough splutter... what?... oh right yes I see now...

aghem !

 Yanchik 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:

Well he knows HOW to train, or at least several hundred pages in early issues of Climb suggest he's familliar with the principles ?

Mind you, if I'd been struggling with a woodie from the age of seven, I'd probably .... enough !

Y
 UKB Shark 27 Nov 2008
 jkarran 27 Nov 2008
In reply to james oswald:

> Was also told by Steve Golley (works with Neil Gresham) that from around the age of 7 he had a woodie in his room...

LOL
jk
 JimR 27 Nov 2008
 mrjonathanr 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Simon Lee:
>
> I suspect 'naturally' has a lot to do with. Applying talent is probably the biggest natural takent of all.

Exactly. Which is why Jerry was the greatest climber we've ever seen, even though others might have more 'pure' talent in some respects.
In reply to mrjonathanr: And yet Jerry used to say that he had to work really hard.
In reply to Graeme Alderson: Not saying that Jerry wasn't truly great mind. He is a true legend.
 snoop6060 27 Nov 2008
In reply to abarro81:
> (In reply to Jonathan T)

"Dave Graham claims to struggle to lock off on one arm..."

Where did you hear that? That simply cannot be true. Surely this a prerequisite of bouldering anything above ,say, v8, and he's ticking v14 problems!

 UKB Shark 27 Nov 2008
In reply to mrjonathanr:

Generally when people look at the exceptional performers in the sport they admire and judge them in absolute terms - how they measure up against the hardest routes. Its the result that ultimately matters apart from a gender distinction and to a lesser extent age. On the world stage it doesnt matter whether you are born with strong fingers, tall, disciplined, enthusiastic - its the result that counts and that in turn is dependent on application but not necessarily the % of your ultimate potential that you express. This is why I have a bit of problem with the hero worship that goes beyond admiring talent and applied talent.

Some advantages/talents can be improved/trained more than others but from a learning point of view I think most of us have more to learn from the 'hard-gainers' who leveraged the most from mediocre improvable talents than necessarily from the absolute best. Having said that the personal 'soft' talents of dedication, discipline, enthusiasm, vision are at least as important in the application of realising physical potential. Moffat's capacity for self-promotion and self-belief was another standout talent, creating and duly filling the concept of perceived best/greatest climber in the world; still getting disproptionate press attention when Neil Carson was quietly putting up routes of equal or greater difficulty at LPT.

You joining us at the tor on saturday ?
 teddy 27 Nov 2008
In reply to snoop6060:
> (In reply to abarro81)
> [...]
>
> "Dave Graham claims to struggle to lock off on one arm..."
>
> Where did you hear that?

I think a one arm pull up rather than a lock off. He claimed not to be able to do one at the Works lecture in Sheffield recently.
In reply to Simon Lee:
> Moffat's capacity for self-promotion and self-belief was another standout talent, creating and duly filling the concept of perceived best/greatest climber in the world; still getting disproptionate press attention when Neil Carson was quietly putting up routes of equal or greater difficulty at LPT.
>
The reason I think Jerry is one of the stand outs is because he put up hard routes all around the world for a long period whereas Neil didn't.

Jerry did create the need for a best/greatest climber, that was done by others, including me at age 15 when I started buying Crags and Bumbler and Stumbler.

Anyway Simon when Jerry bans you for heresy you are welcome at our place

 abarro81 27 Nov 2008
In reply to snoop6060:
Chatted to him at a friend's house whilst he was in sheffield. He was telling us we had strong enough arms to do hard stuff, I said I could barely lock off on 1 arm most of the time and he said he was the same.. Whether you believe he's trying or not might be a different matter.
 UKB Shark 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Good point. A bit of backtracking required or maybe better comprehension on your part. IIRC when Neil did Big Bang Moffatt's globe trotting kickarse days where behind him but Evolution got a bigger splash in OTE which I was specifically referencing. I may have got this all wrong but that was my impression at that point in time. As I believe the great man said at the time "Neil who ?" reflecting a bigger truth and understanding of the way of the world. Anyway the Foundry for me - I want to be live the Moffatt dream rather than the Alderson nap
In reply to Simon Lee: Fair point about the disproportionate coverage but thats not Jerry's fault (or anyone else's fault bearing in mind other current 'discussions') although of course he never discouraged it.

And BTW I meant 'Jerry didn't create' not 'Jerry did create'.

Anyway Ron's the greatest.
 UKB Shark 27 Nov 2008
In reply to Graeme Alderson: And BTW I meant 'Jerry didn't create' not 'Jerry did create'

Two way thing innit - a great leader requires great followers.

Don't get me wrong. I genuinely admire Moffatt for his chutzpah. I was noting that doing the hardest things isnt the same as being the 'greatest' which is a leadership, perception type of thing.

Anyway Ali was the Greatest (Moffat's role model?)
 James Oswald 27 Nov 2008
In reply to teddy:
I swear there is a video on youtube where he does a one finger one arm pullup.
SLB 28 Nov 2008
In reply to snoop6060:
> (In reply to abarro81)
> [...]
>
> "Dave Graham claims to struggle to lock off on one arm..."
>
> Where did you hear that? That simply cannot be true. Surely this a prerequisite of bouldering anything above ,say, v8,

No, it definitely isn't. Perhaps some problems may be grades easier with lock offs, but for many, dynamic movement will work just as well.
 Robin Laidlaw 28 Nov 2008
In reply to james oswald:
Nope. See around 4:30 in this video:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=dhWaJPEoJzQ

(worth watching the whole thing for ways to hurt yourself with 2 fingerboards... oh and some pretty impressive bouldering...)
 James Oswald 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Robin Laidlaw:
There it is I watched it before but must of missed it!

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