/ VIDEO 3: Team America climb End of the Affair - E8 6c

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UKC have a series of three films featuring Alex, Matt and Kevin in action on the grit.


  • Film 1: Kevin (first) then Alex climbing The Promise (E10 or E8)

  • Film 2: Kevin makes the first Ground Up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c)

  • Film 3: Team America climb End of the Affair, (Alex Honnold flashes it) (E8 6c) (watch out for that no-hands rest!)



Film 3 New Item (history and small video): http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45474

Film 3 Article (large video): http://www.ukclimbing.com//articles/page.php?id=1469
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Brilliant. Who is it making the movies? They're doing a great job.
Danny Mac - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Great Video. How windy was it, and not a bad hands off rest either !!!
Richard Bradley - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to TobyA: Not so keen on the editing on that one. Fine effort though.
Michael Ryan - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) Brilliant. Who is it making the movies? They're doing a great job.

Filmed by Matt Segal - put together by Kevin Jorgeson.

In reply to everyone: The guys have done all the filming and editing themselves, so it's not a proper 'pro' job, but they have done a really brilliant job of it.

We're really pleased with the films and it shows that they've obviously put in a lot of effort and the films have come out really, really well.

Awesome - that hands off on the flash! Oh my god!

Thanks guys for the films, and good luck with any future projects.

I did hear that Big Up productions filmed 'The Groove' - so I'm sure that will be featuring on a DVD at some point.

Jack
Steve Kirman - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> Awesome - that hands off on the flash! Oh my god!


Nutters!!


I've really enjoyed these movies - more soon please!
Owen W-G - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Steve Kirman:

They make the route look well easy. I'm sure it's not but I'll never know.
biped - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Good stuff. I liked the editing on Film 3, it fitted in with the music and the liked the two angles you got to see the route from. Too much of it would have been annoying but for a short like this it worked for me.
jkarran - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Owen W-G:

> They make the route look well easy. I'm sure it's not but I'll never know.

You could go find out, you might be surprised.
jk
Owen W-G - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to jkarran:

Last grit arete I've done was Mantis, HVS 5b, at Roaches. Found it hard and scary. Is EOTA much worse?
jkarran - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Owen W-G:

> Last grit arete I've done was Mantis, HVS 5b, at Roaches. Found it hard and scary. Is EOTA much worse?

Dunno, never been near it and it doesn't really appeal but you never know, I've heard wildly differing opinions on the technical difficulty.

jk
simonwhittle on 28 Nov 2008 - user-5446cf80.lns5-c13.telh.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to Owen W-G:
think its given about frenz 7b sport climb grade, but without the bolts!!!
Richard Hall - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: The route looks amazing! I relly want to do that.
jeffsheard on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Inspiring lines, fantastic climbing and great videos - thanks a lot for putting these up! Now I'm totally psyched to do more than a HS.... :)
Bogsy - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Brilliant films, well made & the climbers looked amazingly competent & comfortable with what they were about.

Of course, the tragedy is that having watched the films, I'll now never be able to claim a true on sight for them. Oh well ....
john howard 1 - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Fair play to all involved, so impressive!cheers for the vids
johncoxmysteriously - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) Brilliant. Who is it making the movies? They're doing a great job.


Who is it making the moves??? They're doing a GREAT job.

Mind you, even allowing for that, my main thought is - isn't End of the Affair looking trashed? Let's hope a few more people start flashing it.

jcm


Michael Ryan - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to TobyA)
> [...]
>
>
> Who is it making the moves??? They're doing a GREAT job.

Kevin Jorgeson and Matt Segal, not only can they climb.................
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> Mind you, even allowing for that, my main thought is - isn't End of the Affair looking trashed?

Yep noticed the same thing. The holds are a totally different colour. Presumably it gets a lots of aspirants on top ropes seeing if they can do the moves?
Michael Ryan - on 28 Nov 2008
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> [...]
>
> Yep noticed the same thing. The holds are a totally different colour. Presumably it gets a lots of aspirants on top ropes seeing if they can do the moves?

Most of them can do the moves and harder, but can they execute them above gear.....and for the really talented, onsight?

Grit - maybe God's rock, but it is a non-renewable resource, only a miracle would make it otherwise.

MIck
johncoxmysteriously - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to TobyA:

I think 'aspirants' would be a little kind for many of these individuals, but yes.

In fact frankly the thing is such a mess that the question of whether an ascent is 'onsight' or 'flashed' has become largely irrelevant. As you say the holds are a completely different colour anyway.

jcm
Nic on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> As you say the holds are a completely different colour anyway.

Well that's the effect of indoor walls for you - no one can climb unless the holds are coloured, I expect they'll be sticking tags on them next...
ads.ukclimbing.com
Michael Ryan - on 02 Dec 2008
In reply to Nic:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> [...]
>
> Well that's the effect of indoor walls for you

The other effect is indoor walls are turning out some of the most talented climbers ever seen - in all disciplines, from trad to sport to free solo to alpine.

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