/ NEWS/ARTICLE: New Gogarth Guide is Finished + New Font Guide

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The forthcoming Gogarth North guide has been transferred to Fratelli Spada, the Italian printing company. The books are due to arrive in the UK on the second week of December.

To celebrate the publication of the guide, UKC has an article that was entered in to the Gogarth writing competition back in 2007.

UKC Article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1474

In other guidebook news, John Watson has produced a guidebook to Fontainebleau.

Read about both guidebooks in the UKC News item:

NEWS: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2008#n45485
Doug on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Nice article, but don't let Bruce Hooker see that photo of Carnage :-)

And surprised he doesn't mention the Cosiroc guide books
In reply to Doug: Oh - forgot to link the Font Article in the post above.

Here it is:

Font Article by John Watson:

Article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1478
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: If we're referring to Essential Font guidebook - Bruce will definitely not like it as it says the norm for Font is to use Chalk and not POF - will check tonight to see if right.
NickD - on 03 Dec 2008
Great news on the Gogarth guide. If it's even a quarter as beautiful as North Wales Rock I will be very impressed!
slacky on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Read the Font article the other week on the authors blog.

No harm in pimping it out here though, will no doubt help his sales.
gabriel_m on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
To celebrate the publication of the guide, Jack Geldard has an article by Editor Jack Geldard...

How is publishing an article that you wrote over a year ago that didn't win the competition it was written for a celebration?
JLS on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to slacky:

John Watson - Bouldings very own Sister Wendy.
kevin stephens - on 03 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
> The forthcoming Gogarth North guide has been transferred to Fratelli Spada, the Italian printing company. The books are due to arrive in the UK on the second week of December.


Fantastic, I'm off to rightmove.co.uk to check out houses in Holyhead
aln - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to slacky)
>
> John Watson - Bouldings very own Sister Wendy.
Are you telling me John Watson has received Papal permission to be declared a Consecrated Virgin?

richard kirby - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

God, I'm so excited.

Surely this is the most eagerly anticipated guide book ever...............

Thanks to Simon and the rest of the GU team in advance - your track record precedes you.

How late? 3-4 months, and a year or so in production - thats not bad at all.

Simon Panton not registered on 04 Dec 2008 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to gabriel_m: Don't give Jack a hard time, it was my suggestion that the article was published alongside the news item. It seemed a shame for it to just disappear. It's a great piece of writing, and the pics really bring it alive - how young do the lads look!
Simon Panton not registered on 04 Dec 2008 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to richard kirby: You think your excited, I keep breaking into song and dancing around the office I'm so hyped up!

"I'm so excited and I just can't hide it, I'm about to lose control and I think I like it..." (repeat to fade)

Can't wait to have the little beauties in my hands (at last).
richard kirby - on 04 Dec 2008
In reply to Simon Panton not registered:
> (In reply to richard kirby) You think your excited, I keep breaking into song and dancing around the office I'm so hyped up!
>
> "I'm so excited and I just can't hide it, I'm about to lose control and I think I like it..." (repeat to fade)

Very good - I like the musical simile, although I'm not so sure about the Pointer Sisters.

Musically it reminds me of 1980 and the imminent release of London Calling.

Bargain double, awesome cover and hand written lyrics in the sleeve notes.

A veritable "clash-tastic" feast, which failed to disappoint in any way.

Wo, the preasure is on;-)
Simon Panton not registered on 04 Dec 2008 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to richard kirby: I was a big Clash fan as a kid, bought London Calling the week it came out for 4.29 if memory serves me right. (Or that might have been Sandanista for 4?) Watched a great documentary on Clash live shows the other night on the BBC iplayer (it'll still be there for a few days if you want to catch it).

London Calling sold over 2 million copies - I've got a sneaking suspicion that Gogarth North will fall slightly short of that, but then you never know...:-)
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat:
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC) If we're referring to Essential Font guidebook - Bruce will definitely not like it as it says the norm for Font is to use Chalk and not POF - will check tonight to see if right.

Oops, forgot to look, the book says;

Pof (resin) is not fashionable, a good tip is to use a chalky rag to smack holds dry.

Also, denounces excess chalk use, brush holds clean after use and not to tick mark.
Robert Wilson on 12 Dec 2008 - user-514c164c.l1.c5.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Its here at last! I've just arrived at the shop to find Mr Panton clutching the new Gogarth North guide. Here's a pic of one very happy man and a load of gorgeous books:

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=223

kevin stephens - on 12 Dec 2008
In reply to Robert Wilson:

I hope that's not all Simon's had printed, won't nearly be enough!
Morgan Woods - on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I'm not sure about impressionism et al but the new font guide looks very good and i hope to be putting it to good use in a few weeks time.
Mike Raine - on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

V12 is like a library reading room today! First impression are excellent.
Al Evans on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to Simon Panton not registered: Can I just ask why is it Gogarth North, and what area does that cover?
Also how can I order one to be sent out to Spain?



Michael Ryan - on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to Al Evans:

Gogarth North The glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth, situated on the western tip of Anglesey, provide an unparalleled range of exciting traditional routes in a beautiful and atmospheric location. It is nearly 20 years since the last definitive guide was produced to the area; since then there has been over 300 new routes done on the various Anglesey sea cliffs.

Gogarth North covers the run of dramatic cliffs across the Gogarth Bay and round the North Stack promontory. It also includes the little known limestone sport crags along the north coast of Anglesey, which have undergone a re-equipping program in the last year.

- Over 500 action packed routes

- Holyhead Mountain, Upper Tier, Main Cliff, Easter Island Gully, Wen Zawn, Flytrap Area, North Stack, Tsunami Zawn, Breakwater Quarry, the Benllech and Fedw Fawr limestone crags

- Full colour topos, extensive area maps and individual crag approach maps

- In depth history section written by Martin Crook

- Atmospheric and inspiring action shots from the best climbing photographers available, including: Ray Wood, Jethro Kiernan, Glenn Robbins and Dave Kendall

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=209
Al Evans on 13 Dec 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Ordered via V12 but I'm hoping the shipping cost was an overestimate? 15?
Simon Panton not registered on 15 Dec 2008 - 213.210.57.113 whois?
In reply to Al Evans: I was just going to suggest that I send you a free copy (out of respect for your contribution to the development of and documentation of the crag), but I believe it has already gone (4 air mail I think?).

Anyway, hope you like the guide.

Gogarth South (South Stack crags, The Range, Rhoscolyn etc) will be out next year - I'll send you a free copy (remind me nearer the time).
Al Evans on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Simon Panton not registered: Thank you Simon, nice thought. Look forward to receiving my copy, The South Stack guide would be great.
Al :-)
Mark Westerman - on 15 Dec 2008
In reply to Simon Panton not registered:

I have been working away from home for the last 7 days, and my guide is waiting for me at home (I sent my lackey in yesterday to collect one in person), so when I get in on Wednesday night it will be:

1 Stroke the dog
2 read the guide - obviously checking for any upgrades first and where all my routes are on the graded list :)
3 say hello to wife

Can't wait flippin wait.

Cheers
mark
Steve Crowe - on 23 Dec 2008
In reply to Mark Westerman:

Just had a quick look at Karin's copy of the new Gogarth North. Wow. It has been a long 18 year wait since the last CC guide. So many new routes to go at. Stunning action photos and fantastic photo diagrams. Such detail. It is going to get very busy on Gogarth in 2009.

Perhaps the most inspirational definitive climbing guide ever. Buy it!
Dave Ferguson - on 23 Dec 2008
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Got mine in the post this morning and despite the words "thats your christmas present" ringing in my ears I was just too excited not to open it. I've just spent the last three hours having got home from work perusing its delights, what a blinding job. It fits in your pocket, down your shirt, in your trousers. Its nice to see some upgrades of traditional struggles and technical grades on some past sandbags seem spot on. Crag photos are marvellous and lines easier to follow than past guides.

Although I'm generally against stars, they don't seem to have been spread too liberally (although you could argue every route in the guide deserves 3 stars, bar Sue P). But most of all I suddenly realise there's sooooo much more to go at.

I've suddenly got ridiculously excited and I can see my petrol bill going through the roof in 2009. Well done Simon and team on a fantastic job.

I better go and speak to my wife now and tell her how fantastic it is!

on second thoughts, I think she knows.

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