/ the god delusion
Saw that. It looks nails. What an effort. Surely worthy of News here?
How long were they on it?
I've been twice under that wall now and "holly molly" isn't quite strong enough to describe the sheer steepness of the thing.
Worthy of news- without the shadow of a doubt
real question is more do they want one of this mad reporting like what happened with "team america" (those boys were good BTW, no criticism of them)?
I think not as they seem more understated than your usual climber, including me.
That pair, as far as I am concerned ARE the future of winter climbing, or more likely: the future I would want (my type of ethics...).
Saw that a few days ago and an amazing achievement. Route of the year so far I'd say.
Balls of steel, and vision to match. Feckin' awesome.
All I remember thinking is, 'kin hell that's steep!
Erick, those two are the present!
I thought that this thread would be about an over-hyped and really rather silly book, but it appears to be about an under-hyped and extremely impressive climb
Well done guys :-)
Superb piece of work.
Pity about the delusion. There would have to be a god if someone is going to follow the route never mind pull the moves.
Pretty f*ckin' cool!
What I dig about these guys is the way they underplay their achievement.
They climb a nails route, take some snaps and let the madness speak for itself!
I'm not that impressed !
Yeah, dam hard and fine climb, but just a bit "What's the point", A bit of "Hard for hardness sake".
And no I'm not jealeaous one bit, I can't climb anywhere near that grade in Winter but then again I'm not interested in climbing above IV - V as I do now.
They are the present!
didn't quite express myself well there (no change there then...)
They are, to my mind, what should inspire the hard winter climbers of the future.
Again, it is a question of opinion, but I think what they do epitomizes what adventurous climbing is about.
All ingredients are present: remoteness, length, difficulty...
BTW it does showpiece Scotland so well those pics on Flickr. Next time they went some shots to sell the country to tourists what about this starry night in the coires of Beinn Bhan?
No showpiece in any of the pictures,just average really, infact two are blurred.
"Next time they went some shots to sell the country to tourists what about this starry night in the coires of Beinn Bhan? "
Are you having a laugh ?
In reply to Anonymous:
Certainly not hardness for hardness sake, you would have more luck applying that phrase to hard sport climbing than wild new routes deep in the Scottish hills.
Stay anonymous mate.
> Are you having a laugh ?
In all honesty, I am not. Would you rather have some more of that rubbish tat, with highland coos, nessie and two lads in a kilt tossing the cabber in between drams brought to them by two ginger lassies in plaits?
Scotland has something pretty unique in Western Europe, certainly in the UK anyway ... a feeling of remoteness, a beautiful little manned landscape.
To a Continental, what is Scottish winter about?
a) Just a dreary season to avoid... weather is already pish in summer so winter must be Horrendous.
Or b) that shot of Beinn Bhan. Yes the days are short: play the card of being so far North...
But we seem to disagree, so there's no point in arguing endlessly on a very ANONYMOUS website.
So am I meant to be immpressed ?
> So am I meant to be immpressed ?
What by, some people lack of vision? Erik's way of putting argument? Or yet another inspiring climb by one of best pair in Scottish winter climbing at the moment?
You are the one to answer these questions.
DON'T FEED THE TROLL! ;-)
It is quite fun... a bit like feeding one of them tamagoshi thingies. You know them gizmos dogs and cats.
Admittedly, cutter than a troll but...
Funny, I express my view (which I'm perfectly entitled to do) then get jumped on by others who much prefer to insult me.
OK, you win. Let's feed the troll!
@Anonymous, 82-69-53-65.dsl.in-addr.zen.co.uk, you're spineless, bereft of vision, apparently in a minority of one, and probably not as anonymous as you think...
Now either get back under your bridge or give us some decent bait.
(Not the most impressive bit of troll-feeding ever, but it'll have to do for now!)
Calm down, as I said I only expressed an opinion, which I'm entitle to do, so why are you getting so up tight with me ?
In a way, you are right, I've answered a bit rashly. However, I'm rather amused by the whole thing.
If one doesn't want to be judged, one is better not to express opinions.
I'm not saying that people shouldn't say what they think, but that they should be ready to take responsibility for what is said.
Now if the thread was called "another unimpressive ascent by..." I would have thought this was the place to go to express you opinion ANONYMOUS (or start the thread yourself).
Unless... and there is a point here, you are game to start some sort of cyber argument. Once started though, you cannot complain of the fact.
> Calm down, as I said I only expressed an opinion, which I'm entitle to do, so why are you getting so up tight with me ?
Largely because you choose to post this anonymously. That's all. So of course you're entitled to express your opinion, but why not put your name (or regular username) to it so we know it's yours?
"If one doesn't want to be judged, one is better not to express opinions."
I don't comment on here to be judged, its a forum not a "court room".
Forum: a medium in which the public may debate an issue or express opinions, e.g. a magazine, newspaper, internet etc.
I'll not post here again, seems like everyone just wants to say the same thing and agree with each other.
Enjoy your climbing
It's all pretty pointless, is it not?
Holy moly though??? Have you been watching Bat Man and Robin recently?
Bet they're rubbish on dolerite though!
> I'll not post here again, seems like everyone just wants to say the same thing and agree with each other.
> Enjoy your climbing
Wise decision it seems.
Anyway, I'll enjoy my climbing when I get to go and I sure hope that you do likewise.
Merry Christmas too (not sarcastically meant).
You may have a point here :)
Now Pointless... that is a route that makes me think. I cannot decide whether or not I want to do it, which is unusual as most of the time I know right away.
Don't know anybody that's been on it either, and not very sure how often it comes in.
I know, the thread is being a bit diverted but...
> So am I meant to be immpressed ?
If you had ever done any winter climbing at any grade you wouldn't have to ask this question.
Or, how could you look at this, and forget the quality, but just how could you *not* think, 'what a beautiful place to be!'
And just imagine, you've climbed on this beautiful cliff, I'll bet with not another soul in sight, you've pushed yourself (and like someone said above, onsight) and you've topped out into the dark and the stars. Just imagine that feeling and tell me you can't think, 'wow!' :o(
What does inspire you?
Said I wasn't going to reply again,but here's two pics that I feel are inspiring
This one, end of a climb , what a top out this chap must have had
This one, true Scottish climbing conditions
So ANONYMOUS... it's down to the old conditions debate.
Now, I will have to may state the obvious, but because you're ANONYMOUS I don't know if you've climbed loads, in lots of different places.
I'm always quite surprised by sandstone/ quartzite crags in winter. They tend to be really steep and because of that do not retain huge amounts of white when all around is full on winter.
Vegetation is frozen: tick one of winter definition (you can see that on the pics).
It should be easier with axes/ crampons combo. Tick three of winter definition (you would be hard pushed to have any sole sticking to that rock without spikes. Some moves your bares hands could do very uncomfortably but any flat bits will hold snow and therefore be insecure).
So I'm left with my tick two of winter definition: namely it should be white. Now I went to Beinn Bhan recently, possibly a few days before that ascent. Cliffs looked the same and here's a photo of higher up ground in which we were at times thigh to waist deep. It took us an age to get past this "easy ground" because of it
As far as I'm concerned tick two no problem. It is well white.
Excellent work, you have to love a scottish adventure.
quite apart from the climb, which must be dead hard and is obviously an impressive line, those pics of beinn bhann by moonlight are something else. the deep, steeply scooped coires are fantastic anyway but with snow just down to the coire floor, perfectly picking out the terraces and all lit by the moon...
> In all honesty, I am not. Would you rather have some more of that rubbish tat, with highland coos, nessie and two lads in a kilt tossing the cabber in between drams brought to them by two ginger lassies in plaits?
> Scotland has something pretty unique in Western Europe, certainly in the UK anyway ... a feeling of remoteness, a beautiful little manned landscape.
> To a Continental, what is Scottish winter about?
> a) Just a dreary season to avoid... weather is already pish in summer so winter must be Horrendous.
> Or b) that shot of Beinn Bhan. Yes the days are short: play the card of being so far North...
> But we seem to disagree, so there's no point in arguing endlessly on a very ANONYMOUS website.
Those are very, very valid points. Images and stories of events like the 'God Delusion' is EXACTLY the kind of thing we should be shouting from the rafters. If you want to be clinical about it then this is the kind of story that we should be using to attract climbers to Scotland in winter. "look we've got big adventurous routes in some of the best scenery the UK has to offer"
From my point of view I think the route looks fantastic, the pictures don't have to be of a professional standard to tell a great story. It's not the kind of thing I'm ever likely to climb (I got the jitters walking into the base of the crags at Coire an Lochain a few weeks back ffs!) but it's still pretty inspirational.
Yes, Erik, it should be on the news page. Got a quote for me?
I don't normally buy it, but I will do for that!
> quite apart from the climb, which must be dead hard and is obviously an impressive line, those pics of beinn bhann by moonlight are something else. the deep, steeply scooped coires are fantastic anyway but with snow just down to the coire floor, perfectly picking out the terraces and all lit by the moon...
Oh I agree with you 100%! I was just trying to discern what is was exactly that anon was finding fault with and was wondering whether it was the picture quality, or the route itself, and I think Erick was wondering if anon had a problem with conditions. I've come to the conclusion though that anon just lacks soul, imagination and a sense of adventure, after all his/her inspiration comes from the most crowded corrie in the whole of Scotland :oD
I am cancelling my subscription to Climb. Not cos its not good, it is, but because it covers little of what I am interested in. I dont really care about some 10 metre wee crag in Derbyshire but many do.
This is the route of the year and should be front page on Climb with a similar amount of coverage to that of some route in SW England climbed by James Macaffie (I think).
a route for you Ian?!
Looks amazing - great effort by these two, who are clearly at the top of their game.
I'll be trying to get more info about this for the winter round-up. Lots been going on, even down here in Wales!
Apparently that photographer guy - Ian somebody, has been up to a few things too.
Unbelievebaly impressive for so many reasons: the line, the length, the commitment, the location, the dark...I could go on...
What I'm almost as equally impressed with is the lack of spray and b**lshit. Not a sausage from these two on here, or any other forum, just a few (very, very good - I'm with Monsieur Erick 100% here) photos quietly put up on Pete's own flickr site.
I heard about this route a wee while ago and I'm still gobsmacked and amazed. Bluddy brilliant!
Think it might be stuck in a groove......
It has been a remarkable winter season, and in terms of challenging new routes probably the best Nov and Dec ever! In my view The God Delusion is the pick of the bunch so far, so hats off the Pete and Guy.
Other highlights (that I’m aware of at least) include Heidbanger (VIII,8 – Ben Nevis), Yo Bro (VIII,9 – Mamores), Hung Drawn and Quartered (VIII,8 – Skye), The Cone Gatherers (VIII,7 – Ben Nevis), The Great Gig in the Sky (VII,7 – Quinag), Gnome Wall Direct (VII,7 – Beinn Eighe), Critical Mass (VII,7 - Bidean), Devastation (VII,8 – Ben Nevis), A Wall Too Far (VII,8 – Lochnagar), Brass Monkey (VII,8 – Ben Nevis), Spitfire (VII,8 - Beinn Eighe), Full Frontal (VII,8 – Grey Corries) together with early repeats of The Duel, Sioux Wall, The Secret and the second ascent of Cold Play (VIII,8 – Ben Nevis).
Phew! Over 20 climbers have contributed to this impressive haul - the number of those involved is something to celebrate in itself?
To me, it would make a helluva difference if he/she called him/herself 'Bob' and posted under that on a regular login. So I might still not know who he/she really was, but I'd have a reference point comparable to what I've got for most other contributors rather than a strong feeling that he/she was unwilling to stand up and be counted!
Also, 'anonymous' posting is strongly discouraged by the Posting Guidelines:
Let's not forget the first free ascent of Don't Die of Ignorance. A wee bit longer than 35m ;)
I think your news is a little out of date.
Bloody hell, that looks hard
nice pic in the moonlight
And here's me thinking I'll get some grade 3s done this season, after being plagued with injury for ages.
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