France's Ecrins National Park has long been famous as a world-class ice climbing destination. La Grave, Fournel, Freissinieres and Vallon Du Diable all provide acres of fat, reliable ice with access ranging from 30 seconds and roadside to 2 hours and skis. Easy ramps, goullottes and free-standing "cigars" mean that the climber is never short of variety. A nice easy plod or a terrifyingly steep hookfest on rotten ice; you can take your pick. But where do you go to cut your teeth on some classic climbs without the terror? Try Ceillac.