UKC

Trying to get the best out of my training and fingerboard use, and have been scanning the web for routines. Obviously these are both very renowned in the climbing world, but they both contridict each other:

Moon
I recommend that each dead hang lasts between 5 and 8 seconds. You certainly wouldn’t want to hang on for any longer than 8 seconds. If you can, then the hold is too big. Sometimes, however, you will have a hold that you can only hang for 2-3 seconds. This is not a problem since you can measure your progress against this. For example if you can only hang a hold for 3 seconds, keep training on this hold, after a few sessions you should be able to hang for 4 seconds and after a few weeks possibly hang for up to 5 or 6 seconds. Seeing this kind of progress in your training will keep you motivated which is the key to success.

Metolius
1st minute 15 second hang, 3 pull-ups, Large Edge
2nd minute 2 pull ups, Round Sloper 20 second hang, Medium Edge
3rd minute 20 second hang, Small Edge 15 second 90º bent arm hang, pocket

4th minute 30 second hang, Round Sloper
5th minute 20 second hang, Large Edge 4 pull-ups, Pocket
6th minute 3 offset pulls each arm (high arm jug, low arm small hold), Jug/Small Edge Change hands and repeat

7th minute 15 knee raises, Jug 15 second hang, Medium Edge
8th minute 25 second hang, Medium Edge
9th minute 15 second hang, Slope 3 pull-ups, Jug
10th minute Hang as long as you can, Round Sloper


views?

In reply to Scotti: I'd agree more with the Moon advice than the Metolius. I was going to direct you to the beastmaker website - www.beastmaker.co.uk - but it doesn't seem to be working at the mo. They have some very good advice on there about encores and repeaters which no doubt someone will be along to explain in greater detail but the jist of it is you do sets of 7 hangs, each for 7 seconds with 3 seconds rest in between. During each hang in the set you are locked off to a different degree - full lock, half, straight arms, 3/4 lock, 1/4 lock, then full and half again. Then have a couple of minutes rest and repeat with a different grip or on a different hold on the board.

In reply to Scotti:

They don't really contradict each other - they're different kinds of exercise. The first regime targets strength, the second something more like power endurance. The Beastmaker exercise (repeaters) seems to be something in between, or perhaps it might be said to be a better version of Power Endurance training if you consider one package of 7 7 second hangs and 3 second rests as a set and do a number of sets with say 5 mins rest in between.

In reply to Scotti:
It depends what you are training on.
Maximum strength + endurance of strength?
What are you training?

In reply to Scotti: Can you really train endurance on a finger board. I'm kinda just looking to up my grade, and feel my grip strength is letting me down, both open-hand, and crimp.

In reply to Scotti:
try longer hangs, shorter rests. at the moment i'm trying 10 sec hang, 10 second rest, x6; 2minute rest repeat but on smaller hold etc to failure (which doesn't take long at smallest hold as I'm weak)
good luck