/ NEW ARTICLE: Long Tall Sally; A Step In To The Extreme
Long Tall Sally is a popular choice for a first E1, being quite short and friendly, with an obvious line and seemingly good protection. How did Tom find it?
"Shit! My foot just slipped... Please not now... Don't fall now..."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1758
Nice article, a lot of emotions there! It's a great route and, as you say, that makes you first E lead all the more memorable. Seem to recall the start is the hardest bit but the top section is quite committing.
Such a good description of what climbing is really like for 'mere mortals' (like ourselves). I've screamed and shouted for joy at the top of some climbs too.
a bit of left handed typing? eh john!
haha just kidding, i know what you meant.
nice job tom wicked account of the day, i think my account of seconding that route won't be so interesting!
I really dont think its a good first E1 either. I didn't find it easy seconding it (Ive seconded E6!) and the gear isn't incredible IMHO
Embankment 3 (first pitch) at Millstone is tricky climbing but very well protected, Billingsgate, also at Millstone has a slightly dangerous but easy start followed by a well protected and very enjoyable crux sequence, just take all your smallest gear for it.
I tried it as a first E1 and fell off.
Two of my three bits of gear popped (all little cams, what was I thinking?)
I agree it's not a good first E1!
Good article! It was my first E1 and your account brought it all flooding back, lots of similarities between our ascents, I think.
I actually had quite a similar article published on Dangerous Dave Law's Dangerous Site, but the site seems to have gone. Shame. Not sure I have a copy of the article now either, have to see if I can find it.
I've no idea why LTS is so popular for a first extreme, it's pretty insecure all the way with tricky to place and not totally inspiring gear. Plenty of softer grit E1s out there for the author to do next.
I would say a better first E1 is Debauchery on High Tor - a perfect step up from HVS with big holds and good gear.
Cheers for the article.
Being named Sally it'll have to go on the dream list
Its a good first E1 for gritstone as its very representive of the climbing style, feels bold but is totally safe provided you place the gear properly. Its a great route and far far better when its at the limit of your ability than when its a cruise. Sure there's easier stuff out there but in my opinion at first E1 should actually be representive of the grade rather than some soft touch, it was my first proper one and I enjoyed it, stands out far more than a few 'E1s' I'd done beforehand.
Elsewhere on the site
The Christmas Gift Guide at Outside.co.uk Check out our top selection of Christmas Gift Ideas for climbers,... Read more
I am Matthew Phillips, I'm nearly 14 and I was born without my right arm below the elbow. I started climbing at taster... Read more