UKC

hi guys, can anyone give me a resson why indoor climbing holds fracture or brake, also why do they spin

In reply to Dai Williams: this has to be a joke right?

In reply to Dai Williams:

If the surface that they are screwed on isnt plain then its hard to get them on properly. The holds that I have are made out of resin which can shatter.

In reply to Brendan Hanratty: is ukclimbing a website for jokes then?

In reply to Dai Williams: youd be surprised the way people talk on this thing, apparently its clever to sneer rather than just move on

In reply to jbird: yeah, my question is legit, any advice would be great

In reply to Dai Williams: because theyre resin, which after enough pressure, or maybe being dropped, will crack or shatter. They can spin because they arent tightened enough, or a small amount of dust or gritty stuff would mean it isnt properly tightened, and will slip. Also if you spin the hold with enough force anti clockwise (i think) it can just come undone.

In reply to Dai Williams: Climbing holds can break for various reasons.
1/ Too thin at a stress point and break when enough force applied. I have had a couple break when pulling on them. I am heavy, 90kg, would of probably been OK for someone less weight.
2/ The surface they are bolted to may be uneven causing the hold to try and deform over a bump and end up subject to leverage.
3/ The resin may be poor quality, not mixed properly or get air bubbles in causing a weak point.

As for spinning, its usually just not being tightened enough or some large holds have enough leverage if held off to one side to be able to overcome the bolts tightness.

In reply to Dai Williams:

A force in excess of what the properties of the hold can withstand has been exceeded. Possibly only one anchor point has been designed into the hold, the anchor has loosened and it spins.

Why do birds suddenly appear? Is also a legitimate question.

In reply to Dai Williams:

Obesity

In reply to Dai Williams: sorry, i assumed it was another attempt to start another pointless physics debate or something, accept my apologies.

holds break for the same reasons other things break, too much force on them, age, repeated application of force, incorrect placement so exceptional force is placed on them etc. holds come lose just like nuts and bolts come lose on on anything else i suppose, vibration, movement. force applied in opposite direction to the thread of the bolt incorrect tightening etc.

In reply to Dai Williams:
holds also spin as the ply board that they are attached to swells and shrinks with climatic changes so a hold that was put on tight may become loose.
Breaking is normally down to the surface they are attached to not being flush with the base of the hold.

In reply to Dai Williams:
They don't brake because 1) they haven't a pedal to push, 2) there aren't any pads on them. They spin bcause they can't brake.

oh, sorry, you meant break ;-0

In reply to simon rawlinson:
That, and on a new wall, there will be a lot of spinners as the t-nuts at the back of the wall bed in, causing some play to develop in the bolt at the front.

In reply to alex_arthur: precisely. i'm quite a heavy ba**ard and holds spin a lot more than they do for my lighter mates.

i solved this problem by abandoning climbing walls and am now having much more fun.

In reply to Dai Williams:
alot of people use jet washes to clean the holds and if they are not left to dry properly over tightened holds make them crack they spin because some the new holds have plastic shiny backs. core holds are good but depemds what they ae screwed onto hope that helps

In reply to Dai Williams: this is one of my favourite all time ukc threads

In reply to fred_stone: fred if ur taking the pi*** go and do it somewhere else

In reply to Dai Williams: ok, good luck mate. i'll give you a hand though - They spin if you don't tighten them enough. They break because someone puts too much pressure on them.