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NEWS: Lots of new winter routes on Lofoten

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 TobyA 12 Apr 2009
It seems that the Norwegian Alpine Club has put its money where there mouth is after the recent Jasper-bolting-debate/scandal. Climbing.com reports they invited dozens of climbers from around the world - including Andy Cave and Dave Heselden from the UK - to climb new winter routes in Lofoten. And of course no bolts were placed.

Has anyone heard what the Brits got up?

Lots of reports and pictures (mainly from the American contingent):
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/climber_meeting_in_lofoten_norway/
http://www.ntk.no/article.php?ar_id=18067&fo_id=6896
http://alpinebriefs.wordpress.com/inspirations%E2%80%943/
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/tr/exploringtheiceclimbsofnorthernnorway
http://picasaweb.google.com/benrosy1/LofotenNorway02?authkey=Gv1sRgCKTT25Cn...
In reply to TobyA: Ahhh, hopefully all the snow melts soon...we're going out on the 23rd of May.....
OP TobyA 12 Apr 2009
In reply to Fultonius: Some friends went about that time a couple of years ago and said there was still a lot of snow high up and it was chilly-ish so take lots of warm clothes with you! But most of the Lofoten classics don't actually take you so high so I reckon you'll be fine. Have a great trip but don't forget your duvet!

Not sure what is happening in Lofoten now, but a friend phoned me from Lyngen yesterday which is further east and further north, and said it had got as warm as 10 degrees at sea level They skied the mountain on the left in this pic: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=35145 and said it was unfrozen to the summit at about 1200 mtrs. He did say there was fat ice everywhere though, so it looks like it has been a good winter even if spring felt like it was arriving now.
In reply to TobyA: Ach, I'm sure we'll get something done! I'll be taking loads of warm clothes!

Quite keen on getting there in winter too - looks like scottish winter on steroids!!!!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 12 Apr 2009
In reply to Fultonius:

We went up last year at the end on May, despite Thorbjørn saying it might be a bit 'early' - didn't really know what he meant! First night in Bodø it was five degrees, damp and with a really raw wind - straight of the ice-fields, suddenly we knew!
Turned out OK though!

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/98826489

Great time to be there actually - really quiet.


Chris
 Erik B 15 Apr 2009
In reply to TobyA: awesome, that rulten face was a very obvious target and one the locals (aruld meier (sp?)) had tried and failed on before (well several years ago anyway), we wanted to try it but a boat is needed. very impressive face with tons of strong lines, good to see that the headwall was possible afterall!
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