UKC

Roof cracks and bouldering ?

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 gjw5670 19 Apr 2009
Can anyone recomend anywhere in the peak for some bouldering on cracks? The steeper and more knarley the better !
 Bulls Crack 19 Apr 2009
In reply to gjw5670:

Burbage North has one: 5:11?
 doug s 19 Apr 2009
In reply to gjw5670:

There's a sit start to Byne's Crack at Burbage South which is nice.
 Rob F 19 Apr 2009
In reply to gjw5670:

Harborough Rocks Cave has a 20+ foot horizontal hand / fist jamming roof (over 10 yrs since I was there so sorry can't be more precise)- has it been done?
OP gjw5670 19 Apr 2009
In reply to Rob F: that sounds interesting, i never found that when i was down there. I`ll have to go check it out.
 Souljah 19 Apr 2009
Melvyn Bragg - V8 Offwidth Roof Crack At Ramshaw

youtube.com/watch?v=Qrutqosn5D8&
OP gjw5670 19 Apr 2009
In reply to Souljah: Nice one! That looks like an absolute horror show, I must try it.I think I`ll leave the missus at home that day.
 Paz 20 Apr 2009
In reply to Rob F: Sweet, that's the final excuse I need for a visit. k
In reply to gjw5670:

Melvin Bragg is the final exam really to bouldering cracks in the Peak (you could always head down south to All Elements if you were feeling really keen...)

Others in rising order of difficulty that I can recommend:

Definitive 5.11, Burbage
The Kursk V5, Burbage
Butterfly Crack V5, Warncliffe
Picalli's Pickle, V6, Robin Hood's Stride
Savage Me Softly V6, Stanage
Boffwidth the Silly Way V6/7, Rivelin
Bob Marley Extension V8/9, Stanage

Send me an email if you want any particular beta or info for other destinations!

Tom
OP gjw5670 20 Apr 2009
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training: Nice one.I`ll be Off to Burbage on Friday when i get released from oil rig prison.
 Rob F 23 Apr 2009
Congratulations to the rock athletes on your successful ascents. I suppose you are looking for another challenge now??????

A little known venue called Mixenden Quarry near Halifax has two hideous offwidth roofs, one being quite possibly the Yorkshire Ma Dalton!?!?!?!!? They are situated on the right wall of a box quarry about 1/2 way along the edge. The rock ain't perfect higher up but it seems like just the kind of challenge you're looking for.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1235

http://maps.live.com/default.aspx?v=2&FORM=LMLTCP&cp=syqk8sgv7t2z&a...

Oh and there is a small amount of overhanging bouldering in a cave above the crag on the left hand side of the edge should the routing not be to your taste.

Good luck- I await the UKC news report with interest...... :>)

Regards

Rob.

In reply to Rob F:

Rob, you're a legend! Thanks for that. I'm always keen to know about other potential bits and pieces.

In reply to your other thread (I can't seem to reply on it) we were a little concerned when the above info turned up! But then when we thought about it for a moment, realised no one in their right mind with bother with such a piece of choss...

Cheers (I owe you a pint)

Tom
In reply to gjw5670:

Isn't there also a Definitive 5.12, or is this overgradaing setting in?

jcm
In reply to Souljah:

Good link, thanks! Think I'd have taken that blue jacket off before trying that...

Bit off carving the name in the rock like that, mind!

jcm
 The brainn 23 Apr 2009
In reply to Souljah: what grade would it be with out the bandages/tape?
 Souljah 27 Apr 2009
The prob was named after the ancient name in the rock not vice versa!
Quite possibly impossible without tape... do your homework.
 JLS 27 Apr 2009
In reply to gjw5670:

>"The steeper and more knarley the better !"

Well it hardy fits the brief but "Rigth Side" V1 5b at Apparent North may provide a bit of a warm-up for the other suggestions...


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