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Question on suitable footwear for the Cuillin

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ruttingstag 20 Aug 2009
Doing some of the Cuillin ridge next weekend. (not the whole traverse and not decided which bits yet.) Do people take rock climbing shoes for any of the climbing sections or would normal walking boots be suffice.
 andy 20 Aug 2009
In reply to ruttingstag: I wore salomon approach shoes for the lot. See bob's website for an account of out traverse:

http://bobwightman.co.uk/climb/skye_ridge.php
 Pedro50 20 Aug 2009
In reply to ruttingstag:

I wore Walsh PB fell running shoes, and changed into Boreal slippers for the TD gap, but in retrospect they were uneccesary.

But walking BOOTS? No way, fast and light is the key.
 Crofty 20 Aug 2009
In reply to ruttingstag: I wore Montrail D7's and found them OK for TD Gap, King's Chimney etc. I think walking boots would be OK on everything but TD gap unless you are climbing well (can't see what grade you do on your profile). If you are not doing whole ridge and have the space, throw the climbing shoes in, they don't weigh too much.

Mind you I was reading an online interview on Chockstone.org (oz site) about Malcolm (HB) Matheson doing grade 21 (about E1) in Tevas. I've pasted it in for you

Chockstone: You’re still climbing hard, obviously. I’ve heard you can cut three laps of Monkey Puzzle (28) at the Gallery, or a single lap in your approach shoes. (I think it was Jac who told me that).

HB: Yeah, well, I did it once in my approach shoes. Just for fun. [laughs]. And I only ever did it once. I’ve actually wanted to do it in a pair of Tevas but arh…[laughs]. I’ll have to see next summer if I get a decent pair of Tevas. I think I could actually do it, but there is a bit of footwork involved. I did have a pair of Tevas that had some Stealth C4 rubber on the bottom of them, and I’ve climbed routes at Buffalo in those. [laughs]. Not hard ones, but up to about 21. I did Commander Cody (21) in my Tevas. But yeah I thought it would be quite funny to do Monkey Puzzle (28) in my Tevas. I think I could do that. But as far as doing laps on it - I think could do three laps at the moment, but I have actually done 10 laps in day, in the past.
 UKC Forums 20 Aug 2009
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 Only a hill 20 Aug 2009
In reply to ruttingstag:
5.10 Guides can't be beaten for climbing performance, for an approach shoe. What they lack in edging ability they make up for in their extreme stickiness--just what you need for the Cuillin!
 James Edwards 20 Aug 2009
In reply to Pedro50:
Sorry old boy, i have to bite at your 'fast and light' declaration.
I hate it how this phrase is becoming a cliché which means essentially disengage your brain.

As someone who regularly guides the Cullin ridge i ALLWAYS wear walking boots and advise my clients to do the same. Trainers just aren't as good and will get trashed on rough rock and scree. You will also appreciate the support of a stiff stout pair of boots.
If you arn't comfortable leading VDiff in walking boots, and you can of course pack a pair of rock boots for the TD gap and perhaps Naismiths.
However if you are wanting to beat the current record then i would suggest getting your walshs resoled with sticky rubber.
James e, highmountaineering.com
 AlH 20 Aug 2009
In reply to Only a hill and James Edwards: Normally I'd have to agree with James having had a pair of 5.10s eaten by the Cuillin. But I have had a new pair of La Sportiva Gandalfs out on the ridge for 5 days in the last 3 weeks (as well as a few days on Ben Nevis and a walkin/walkout and a couple of pitches of rock in Caithness) and they've performed well on wet basalt and despite peat, gabbro gravel and scree running in Coire Lagan they show pretty much no sign of wear at all. They are only a shoe and don't offer the support of a boot to tired ankles and the price tag is noticeable but for once I feel like I'v bought a piece of outdoor kit worth the money.
Al
 Only a hill 20 Aug 2009
In reply to AlH:
Fair enough--I haven't done the full ridge traverse, only the Pinnacle Ridge, and found Guides superb but then again I can see how the rock could wear the shoes down pretty fast when used for extended periods.
 Ann S 20 Aug 2009
In reply to ruttingstag:

I have always worn Walsh Raids and if doing anything where I need to rope up will pack my 5.10 slipper style rock shoes, which weigh nothing. I value the feel of sensitivity I get from them and it induces a more careful approach up or down the scree rather than plunging down as I tend to do in boots and yes I still lose both big toenails about 3 weeks after getting home but you can't have everything.
 drunken monkey 20 Aug 2009
In reply to ruttingstag: When I did the whole traverse i wore Scarpa pro-ascents. Every other time I've been up there its been either Sportiva Trango's or Scarpa Alpha's in winter.

I've never took stickies for the ridge itself.

have fun.
 Brass Nipples 20 Aug 2009
In reply to ruttingstag:

I wore my La Sportiva Trango Evos (my alpine boots) etc this year - no need for climbing boots. Did a traverse in running shoes a few years back and they were trashed on reaching the Slig...
 Simon Caldwell 21 Aug 2009
In reply to Pedro50:
> But walking BOOTS? No way, fast and light is the key.

Why can't you go fast and light wearing walking boots? My choice would be fell shoes, but I'd guess that a considerable of those who do the full traverse do so wearing walking boots.

The the OP:
Depends on how much experience you've got of climbing in boots. Would you be happy doing the TD Gap (severe-ish) in boots? If in doubt, despite what Pedro says, a pair of rockshoes isn't going to add significantly to your rucksack weight.
And depends which section(s) you do of course. I did the round of Coire a' Ghreadaidh wearing Tevas once. I wouldn't particularly recommend it, there was too much scree around, but the point is that that section is straightforward.
 Andy Nisbet 21 Aug 2009
In reply to James Edwards:

I'm with James and wear a comfy pair of walking boots.

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