UKC

I decided to take a trip to Pex Hill today, only when I arrived, a makeshift barrier had been erected consisting of a few 3x2's blocking the entrance. There was also a sign stating that the quarry was closed until further notice due to vandalism. There's no other information on the sign, no official stamps of authority, e.g. United Utillies/Council, so I don't know if this is legal or not. Not wanting to potentially cause any further problems, I decided not to risk jumping the fence and went to Frodsham instead. Does anyone know what's happening here?

Darren

In reply to dazzle482000: I must admit going there yesterday morning, seeing the sign, ignoring it and bouldered away. It appears to be 'closed' due to the amount of rubbish left by youths having drinking sessions. IMHO it's not climbers who created the situation, so why should we suffer because of it? If I'd known about the rubbish I'd have taken a few black bags and cleared some of it away. The place looked a right tip.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:
I agree Andy, the place is a haven for raves/BBQ's and P**S ups, and all the rubbish gets left behind. I've never once seen any climbers leave any of these, and in many cases, I've seen a lot of climbers regulary filling up bin bags with the rubbish and taking them away with them. I didn't want to risk any further and ultimately final closure. I hope this is sorted out soon!

In reply to dazzle482000: The barrier may have bee erected as a temporary measure to deter bank holiday raves,possily by members of the parish council.

In reply to dazzle482000: And quite frankly im amazed that this situation has arisen. there has been an increaed incidence of vandalsm over the last six months.Carpets of broken bottles, mountains of empty beer cans and dicarded drugs paraphenalia are now sadly part of the pex scene. Another development if the recent appearance of racist graffiti.A few local climbers have taken the trouble to clear the worst of the garbage, but solving this problen will involve a more organised/official response. Where is that response?I am aware that my climbing club pays an affiliation fee to the BMC every year.May we expect a response or represenation from this organisation?

I will contact the site manager to see if the situation can be addressed.

Rgds
Guy Keating
BMC A&C

Just spoke with the BTCV site warden and found out that the barriers are a temporary measure during the school summer holidays and that UU (site owners) will be making a site inspection this week.
If the regulars could organise a mass clean-up session, this would be greatly appreciated - the site warden said he would arrange for the local council to remove the collected debris.

Any thoughts?
Guy

In reply to Guy Keating, BMC:
The Vags are having their evening meet there on 22nd Sept, will get everyone to bring a bag and do a bit, anyone else also free to join us
although frankly most of us do this most visits...Pex has been shocking this year, worse since they cleared the undergrowth and made it a generally nicer place to hang out....not sure the rare newts or whatever they were have benefitted as intended
Thanks for looking into things Guy

In reply to Guy Keating, BMC:

Thanks for the info Guy, very much appreciated. It does seem a bit daft though to barrier off Pex for the school holidays at the end of August? During a chat with Pekkie I said I'd be willing to assist in the clearing up operation, although how long it remains clear is another thing.

In reply to dazzle482000: more info / suggestions here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=364192&v=1#x5312844

In reply to dazzle482000: Thanks for your action on this matter Guy, you've restored my faith in the BMC.

In reply to Guy Keating, BMC:

You have mail.

In reply to dazzle482000:

This is coming to a head. Something needs to be done and while we have the additional weight of the Parish Council we should be striking while the iron is hot. If there's anything I can do from Leeds I'd be more than happy to help.

In reply to dazzle482000: I'm willing to go down for a mass cleanup if we can get something sorted out?

In reply to dazzle482000:Another clean up is a good idea, however i've received comments from climbers who say the've been targeted by bottles and verbal abuse over the summer.These are serious issues .The police seem to have been called to the quarry on a number of occasions. As the majority of the ravers seem to be based at the local sixth form college, maybe a formail approach to the principal would be useful.Its amazing how few of the local agencies, with the exception of the Parish council, seem to be interested in what is going on. Private wealth and public squallor. many.Also, climbers would maybe advised to visit pex hill in groups rather than on an individual basis.Many of the students seem to be stoned out of their heads, which at times seems to make them rather aggressive. Peak party days seem to be Thursdays and Saturdays.

In reply to ruckman:

I've been bottled and verbally abused myself. One of the comments was 'look at that big dick!' In truth, though, this was accurate description rather than verbal abuse.

Seriously, if anyone is targetted by bottles and/or verbally threatened then it should be reported to the police. Unfortunately, I think Pex comes under Prescot rather than Widnes police station. I have the number but doea anyone know what would happen if I publicise it on here. Would they kick off?

In reply to Pekkie:

I doubt anyone would mind. These numbers are meant to be public information, as far as I'm aware.

In reply to Pekkie: do you think it's possible to "secure" Pex and gate it off with access to key holders charged a nominal fee? I realise the cost implications of this but if it can help to stop getting bottled and so on.... would anyone be willing to pay though?

I don't think that would work - look at all the fuss over new padlocked gates at Aldery Cliff and Wilton! Don't forget it's in Western Grit and if I was a casual passer by I wouldn't be too pleased to find it locked. I think the answer might be to form a coalition with other users such as dog walkers (I do that too! And I always clear up), local residents and the parish council with shared mobile numbers so that if there is any bother a posse of vigilantes can be quickly assembled. No we wouldn't string em up or throw them off the top, but with back-up it would be easier to try and educate miscreants. Locals do that in parks when there is trouble with pit bulls and motor bikes - and they always report incidents to the police.

In reply to Pekkie: Yeh, fair enough, just a thought!

In reply to dazzle482000:

Guy Keating of the BMC has picked this up and it's on the agenda for the NW meeting next Monday. Let's hope we can see some progress.

How about starting up a petition asking for compulsory sterilisation of the underclass.

In reply to ruckman:

Might it be possible to kick the sh*t out of them when they're stoned, and they wouldn't remember who did it?

The above comment is tongue in cheek - I wouldn't want to be hunted down by the thought police for commiting a hate crime.

In reply to dazzle482000: Concerning this question of 'the underclass'. Well, many of the culprits seem to be students from middle class backgrounds, so they can hardly be described as members of an 'underclass', whatever that means.However, I you were to suggest sterilising the bankers and financiers in the city of London, well u might get widespread support for that one.

Is it still closed? Back from my jollies and might go for a boulder after work....

In reply to metal arms: Back to normal at Pex, has been for a couple of weeks. By normal, I do mean glass, thugs and litter everywhere. Climbing's also possible too!!

In reply to dazzle482000:

Not too bad yesterday, Sunday. No doubt the onset of winter will put the scallies into hibernation. Waiting for feedback from Guy Keating of the BMC on a long term solution.

In reply to dazzle482000:
Never been to Pex Hill, and as a new guy I'm a little bit nervous about going alone!

Is it as bad during week days? I work shifts so I can get there when most folk should be at work or that bloody college!

In reply to iain_cbr: However scary the scallies are, the climbing's more so! Really, I don't think it's that bad is it?

In reply to iain_cbr: There is nothing to be scared of, well other than the top outs.

In reply to iain_cbr: not been for years or on my own. But Pex Hill is a great place to climb in terms of problems.
It can be quiet high in places .... but you don't have to top out if you don't want to.

enjoy

In reply to iain_cbr:
Was there Sunday and all well. The climbing is great though tough if you're unused to it so forget about grades and just see what you can do: the key is to use footholds very carefully as the finger holds are small.
It can be popular with local youths but so far I've just found them enjoying the quarry as a place to hang out and chat, albeit in a fairly scally way. I wouldn't worry yourself: I've never had any problems since I first went in 1983.
Have fun.

In reply to mrjonathanr:
I was there the other day and found it very clean and no scallies or anyone else there- it was also bone dry....that will not be true now

In reply to Dr Fran (Vagabond MC): Actually I suspect that it is still pretty dry at Pex. It hasn't rained that much lately and the other local crags are still in perfect condition.

In reply to Ben Farley:
in perfect condition.

Even the seepage on Staminade has gone (the litmus test of Pex conditions).
And the scallies have gone into hibernation. A good time to nail that testpiece? Hang on, the wind and the rain are picking up...

In reply to Pekkie: Yes indeed, you're right Pete. I don't think the rain today will make much difference, very light and the wind will dry it anyway. Plus it's nice and cool now so the friction is almost perfect at the moment, especially for those after work sessions.

In reply to Ben Farley:
Hi Ben
after work....what do you do for a living??? anyway...let's hope it stays dry ish then, for some after work head torch training!

In reply to Dr Fran (Vagabond MC):
>> after work....what do you do for a living???

Isn't he a teacher? Which means he gets off at three on the dot.