In reply to various people: I have to admit that I'm still in two minds about Ratho. As someone who climbs about 7b and likes long routes I'd love to climb there regularly. However I have to admit the my first impression when I originally visited was that I thought the design of the whole facility was just utterly hopeless in terms of ever being cost effective. The was several years ago and it is still my view.
At the other end of the spectrum is somewhere like Boulders, the new wall in Cardiff. It's build costs were probably less than 4% of Ratho's (and less than 10% of what Edinburgh Council has invested so far) and it can cater to a similar number of climbers.
In terms of running a wall, a lot of capital and recurring costs scale with the length of routes. Unfortunately I don't think many climbers would be willing to pay the appropriate premium for long routes therefore I believe that Ratho is consigned to always struggle to be commercially viable.
You just need to do some maths. Walls cost c.400 pounds per square metre and need about 1.25m of linear space per route. Assume a repayment time of fifteen years and 8% cost of capital which gives a 11.6% annual cost. Assume an upfront cost for holds of 25 pounds per metre of climbing and an ongoing annual cost of perhaps a fifth of that. Assume an optimistic occupancy time of 30 hours per week per route averaged over the year and an average climbing session lasts 2.5 hours of actual climbing time.
A 10m lead route will therefore cost you perhaps 659 pounds per year and support around 1248 user visits per year. That gives a basic cost for the climbing infrastructure alone of 53p per climber. However if you have 25m routes that cost is 79p more per climber per visit.
You can then apply the same rational to:
- Construction cost of the building
- Maintenance cost of the building
- Running costs of the building
- Additional costs of route setting
- Additional costs of annual inspections
and probably a few other things as well...
If you do, then you will be looking at an additional cost of several pounds per climber for 25+m routes compared with 10,12 or 15m routes. As a rough estimate I think that on an equivalent business models the true cost per visit of a wall with 25m routes could be around 30% higher than that of a similar wall with 10m routes.
To my mind it is fairly obvious that the premium for the longer routes is effectively being funded by the Council given that the current 8.75 entry fee pounds is the same as that for other much lower climbing centres. Unfortunately I really don't think there are many (any?) climbers who would pay a more realistic fee of perhaps 11.40 per visit which would reflect the 'better' facilities.
So, would you pay perhaps 30% more if your current local wall was replaced by 'Ratho'?