/ NEWS: Steve Crowe Climbs Full Height of Malham Cove

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UKC News - on 16 Oct 2009
[Steve Crowe Climbs Full Height of Malham Cove, 4 kb]Steve Crowe, 51, from Sunderland, has become the second person to climb the full height of Malham Cove.

Steve first climbed The Groove back in 2003 and from then on had an ambition to climb from the bottom to the top of the Cove and started to attempt the complete link of the pitches to the top, but two knee operations and last year a dislocated shoulder held him back.

News item updated with a topo.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49821

Tim Broughtonshaw on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Aye went up with steve on Tuesday and saw him complete this ascent from left hand side of the catwalk. could take in the full length of the route from there and fully appreciate the position and the awesomeness of the achievement. Must be good to be able to say to the tourists when they ask that stupid question "have you climbed to the top". Aye i have.

Cheers
Tim
220bpm on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Bloody hell thats some effort! Well done that man.

You'd think 7b into 8a+ into 7c into 7c would be more than 8b. But what do I know....only that he's a beast :-)
Tim Emmett on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News: Brilliant effort Steve, I guess all that waits now is the first Para-Alpine Ascent of the Cove, (via either yours or Johns route). There's a good challenge ! Any takers? ;-)
Tim
Mick Ward - on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic! An inspiration to us all.

Mick
Tim Broughtonshaw on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to 220bpm: it's not 7b into 8a+ the 8a+ (the groove) starts and includes the 7b (something stupid). So its 8a+ into 7c (freeandeasy) into breach (which is apparently 8a when it includes rennaisance) otherwise ive heard 7b/+. But not been on it so cannot say for sure. Still sounds hard!

Cheers
Tim
fimm on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News:

That's very impressive.
Serpico on 16 Oct 2009 - 82-70-37-198.dsl.in-addr.zen.co.uk
In reply to 220bpm:
Nice one Steve!

> You'd think 7b into 8a+ into 7c into 7c would be more than 8b.

The 7b is actually part of the 8a+ (The Groove) so the whole equation would be:
(((7b + 7b+)=7c+) + good rest + 7c+ = 8a+) + ok rest + 7c + good rest + 7c =Glory
Ben Gilbert - on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to Serpico:

Well done Steve
220bpm on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to Serpico & tbertenshaw:

Cheers for the explanation guys.
toad - on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News: Wow.
JohnnyBrundle on 16 Oct 2009 - host81-129-228-170.range81-129.btcentralplus.com
In reply to UKC News: Great effort Steve. Very Impressive!
Yrmenlaf on 16 Oct 2009 - 213.78.202.62 whois?
In reply to UKC News:

Top job, Steve.

I remember as a young(er) lad reading some correspondance in the Climber and Rambler, contesting the "record" for climbing the "three Yorkshire roofs" (back in the day when they were all aid climbs). Can't remember what it was (nor how they got from one to the other: running?)

I assume Gordale & Kilnsey are have their "full height" climbed: is the record the "next big challenge"

Y.
In reply to UKC News:

Great effort.

Why has it taken 21 years for someone to repeat this feat?


Chris
GrahamD - on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Probably no other bugger has a long enough rope !
andy farnell - on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs: It's a new feat, not the old one! Steve finished up Breach, John finished independantly further left. There was a very heated argument in the press you may remember, accusations of glued on holds. John claimed it wasn't him, others seemed to think it was possibly him, the people who truely know never let on. The original finish hasn't been repeated (to the best of my knowledge) and John was quoted in the mags of the time that the roof was the crux of the route, giving it a hefty (for the time) 8c grade.

Andy F
Michael Ryan - on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Great effort.
>
> Why has it taken 21 years for someone to repeat this feat?

Because you never got on it Chris.
lostintranslation on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:


any chance of someone drawing a line on the picture to give us a topo? Of john's route and steve's?




lost


petestack - on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) It's a new feat, not the old one!

Depends whether the feat is repeating John Dunne's route (in which case you're right) or climbing the full height of Malham Cove (which I think Chris might have meant)?
In reply to andy farnell:

Yes I remember all the fuss and was wondering why in the intervening 21 years no-one has bothered to get on and repeat it in either form.

Chris
ads.ukclimbing.com
richardh - on 16 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News:

I appreciate there are rests of sorts, and Steve is in the position to judge, but doesn't tacking a 7c+ with extra roof onto the top of a tough 8a+ warrant/merit more than an 8b in total?

great effort, and about time someone took on and did the challenge in whatever form, well done.
andy farnell - on 17 Oct 2009
In reply to richardh: It's 8a+ to a brilliant rest, then 7c to a brilliant rest, then 7b+ for the final roof. Which does, admittedly sound more than 8b, given the enormous rope drag at the top. A stunning effort whatever the grade. I was talking to Steve about this a while ago and he did say he planned to walk off, which IMHO is a fabulous way to finish. A truely stupendous ascent and one which should be roundly applauded.

Andy f
Enty - on 17 Oct 2009


In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic achievement Steve.
Always fascinated me this.
Would it be cheating to have a friend waiting at the bottom of Free and Easy to put you on belay as you climbed past?

Enty
In reply to Enty:

Isn't that how John Dunne did it - or something similar?

Chris
Michael Ryan - on 17 Oct 2009


News item now updated with a topo.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=49821
Enty - on 17 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Did Dunny solo Rodney's Route first? Sorry Steve your ascent doesn't count ;-)

Enty
gaz parry - on 18 Oct 2009
In reply to andy farnell: I thought Arron Tonks did the top roof a while back, though i maybe wrong. I abbed it a few years ago and the glue marks are still there, in just the place where you might want a hold.
andy farnell - on 18 Oct 2009
In reply to gaz parry: I've been climbing with Aaron for the last few weeks and he hasn't mentioned it, I'll ask him next time I see him.

Andy
marky - on 20 Oct 2009
In reply to UKC News: Fantastic effort Steve. Inspirational and well deserved as you looked close back in June when I was on The Groove.
Steve Crowe - on 26 Oct 2009
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Great effort.
>
> Why has it taken 21 years for someone to repeat this feat?
>
>
> Chris

Sorry it took me so long Chris!

Thanks everyone for your positive comments.


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