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DMM Fly Modifications

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 Ben Ranson 19 Oct 2009
My question is a simple one, can the Grivel Sliders be fitted to DMM Fly axes?

Is the width of the Axe suitable, does the rubber grip at the bottom present a problem, will a new hole have to be drilled to create the bottom point for the sliders to fall down to?

Any other recommendations greatly received, the aim is to have a leashless tool that can also be used for long walk-ins and plenty of plunging.

Ciao.
 petestack 19 Oct 2009
In reply to el_capitan:

You can fit them over the rubber grip to give a good tight (non-sliding) fit, so they sit just above the end cap where the spike goes in. No holes required, and they still plunge reasonably because the spike's unaffected, but there's no way you'll get them to slide unless you strip the rubber right off. They're also just about impossible to clamp up to fit over the rubber to screw up with the supplied short screws, so I replaced these with longer ones (they're 5mm stainless machine screws) and cut off the excess length after fitting. Which means that I could still take them off to leave the axe unmodified if I wanted, but would need more longer screws if I subsequently wanted to refit them.
 jazzyjackson 19 Oct 2009
In reply to el_capitan:
I modified my flys using jubilee clips with some home made metal triggers with tape over them to add comfort, they are great for mixed but utter keek for cascade ice ( but thats more down to chunky T rated picks and light axe heads )
 Ewan_B 19 Oct 2009
In reply to el_capitan:

After drilling the spikes on my Flys, and fitting a pair of modified Quark grips to them, I'd definitely recommend the simpler option of using Grivel Sliders with extended bolts. You won't be able to move them when they're placed over the rubber but they'll give you a solid rest for very little effort.
 vincentvega 19 Oct 2009
In reply to el_capitan:

Yep, totaly agree with Pete.

I fitted sliders, (which dont slide!) as finger rests to my flys.
They do just fit over the rubber grip, i used the screws provided, but it was a massive pain. Get an extra pair of hands for help, or do what Pete did and use longer screws!!

You can also fit a grivel trigger higher up for your forefinger if thats your thing.
 Martin W 19 Oct 2009
In reply to petestack:

> They're also just about impossible to clamp up to fit over the rubber to screw up with the supplied short screws, so I replaced these with longer ones (they're 5mm stainless machine screws) and cut off the excess length after fitting.

I have fitted Grivel Triggers to both Flys and Xenos. If the Sliders are anything like the Triggers then using a normal L-shaped hex wrench/allen key is a recipe for much frustration and aggravation. The solution I found, by accident, was to use an appropriately-sized hex wrench bit in a bit-holding screwdriver (this http://tinyurl.com/yzwltvk is the kind of tool I mean). With a straight rather than a bent tool you can use a judicious amount of downward pressure against a workbench or other non-delicate surface to press the Trigger/Slider closed sufficiently to engage the screw in the captive nut. Having discovered this trick I actually removed the screws again, shortened them by a few mm (because they were sticking out of the nut a little too far for my taste) and refitted them with no problems.

I fitted Petzl Griprests to my Flys rather than Sliders. It took ages (and several blunted drill bits) to drill the necessary hole in the spike of each Fly, but after that the Griprests fitted straight on with no further modification needed, either to them (contrary to what it says on Needlesports' web site) or to the axes. I did consider the Sliders but went for the Griprests, partly because they're a lot cheaper (although that is probably outweighed by the cost of the ruined drill bits!) but mostly because I didn't want to lose the bottom cm or so of the axe grip.
 BallsOfSteel 19 Oct 2009
In reply to Martin W:
I had a similar experience whilst drilling some holes for griprests in some fly's just a couple of weeks back, that steel is MEGA HARD! they look good with griprests though, used the aftermarket quark grips, look and feel pretty damn good!
 Ewan_B 19 Oct 2009
In reply to Martin W:

That's interesting Martin, when I fitted Petzl rests to mine, I found I had to cut some of the plastic away inside to get a snug fit against the bottom of the Fly's handle. Do you not have a gap along the sides of yours?
 Martin W 20 Oct 2009
In reply to Ewan_B: Yes, I suppose you could say there is a bit of a gap - but I'm not sure it makes any odds. The object of the exercise is to create a rest for your (gloved) pinkie. The fact that the Griprest isn't a sleek fit to the bottom of the axe shaft makes no practical difference to its effectiveness for that purpose, at least in my experience to date.

I've taken a photo of the grip of one of my Flys and tried to upload it but it's not appeared in my album yet. (If anyone is interested, I can upload another photo of the spike without the Griprest in place, to show where the hole is drilled.)
 jazzyjackson 24 Oct 2009
 petestack 25 Oct 2009
In reply to petestack:
> (In reply to el_capitan)
>
> You can fit them over the rubber grip to give a good tight (non-sliding) fit, so they sit just above the end cap where the spike goes in. No holes required, and they still plunge reasonably because the spike's unaffected, but there's no way you'll get them to slide unless you strip the rubber right off. They're also just about impossible to clamp up to fit over the rubber to screw up with the supplied short screws, so I replaced these with longer ones (they're 5mm stainless machine screws) and cut off the excess length after fitting. Which means that I could still take them off to leave the axe unmodified if I wanted, but would need more longer screws if I subsequently wanted to refit them.

Fuller description and photos now up at:
http://www.petestack.com/blog/climbing/clippers-and-grip-rests-for-dmm-flys...
duntelchaig midge 25 Oct 2009
On a similar note regarding the DMM Fly,

Any advice on replacing the handle/grip? The rubber on mine is falling to pieces and I thought about using road bike handle tape or, frankly, just leaving it woth no handle though I wonder just how slippy it might become doing that.

Any thoughts?
 JdotP 03 Nov 2009
In reply to el_capitan:

I added grivel triggers, but to the bottom of the shaft rather than as triggers for your forefinger. I had to modify both the handle and the triggers a bit to allow this, but I'm pleased with the end result.

I'm also looking for ideas on how best to replace the rubber grips, as on mine the rubber is also hacked to pieces.
 Tom Last 03 Nov 2009
In reply to duntelchaig midge:

How about rolling a bit of inner tube up them?

Otherwise, duct tape is what I used.
bikerrog 03 Nov 2009
In reply to monkey kong: Needlesports do a meter of rubber tape for just such a job, I put some on my walking axe and it seems to work well enough.
as for the grip rests, well I bought super flys wich seem to plunge ok so far. I've also put a 5mm cord loop through the head hole (also on their web site) to crab on a leash / grivel double spring when I am walking/ plunging. not tested yet due to no snow
 Dan Goodwin 03 Nov 2009
In reply to el_capitan:

Handle bar tape from Halfords works aswell !!

Aye Dan
 Ron Walker 04 Nov 2009
In reply to duntelchaig midge:

Bike bike inner tube is perfect. Just ask the local bike shop not to bin the old tubes.
 gear boy 13 Nov 2009
In reply to duntelchaig midge: amalgamating tape, available from hardwear stores, used as emergency repairs for plumbers etc, its also what petzl use on the nomic, google slef amalgamating tape,or go to screwfix maplins etc

hth

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