UKC

Hmm so I was fooling around with my usual "quad" anchor today, John Longs (double cord over twice for four strands in middle, tie two limiting knots, clip 2 or 3 strands in middle) which I love because of its limited extending, as close to perfect equalization as you can get for two solid peices, and redundant cord, and easy to setup in under a minute. But I think the extending can be made even less.

If you double over the cord twice as normal, and then tie an eight on a bit with two of the loops on one end (similiar to tying the limiting knot except basically right at the end), and then tie the other knot with some slack inbetween the other bolt on the top two inner strands, but the bottom two inner strands having much more. It would "look" like an american death triangle, however since the top of the triangle has no tension, it is not. Then you clip the lower strands and boom, a very little extending, equalized redundant cord anchor. But making sure there is no tension on the top is key, so probably have it hang half the height from the bolt height to the bottom strands. This effectively cuts the extension in half.

Hmm hard to understand, maybe a quick MS paint image?

In reply to gaillard:


...............................<tumbleweed rolls past>........................

In reply to gaillard:

Have you looked outside? The weather is good. Go climbing.

In reply to willworkforfoodjnr:

In fairness, he did post this on the 26th Nov when it wasn't. Trying to read his instructions has still given me a headache, though.

In reply to gaillard:


Very few in the uk will have a clue what you're on about, mostly we just use knotted rope or slings. Maybe a link?


Why are you seeking perfect (dynamically self adjusting I presume) equalisation? That and the requirement for zero extension in the event of a placement failure are mutually exclusive. Using knotted dynamic rope gives a very good compromise between the two competing requirements.


Please god NOOooooo

jk