/ NEWS: EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW: Stevie Haston Crushes Greenspit
Stevie Haston gives UKC the full candid details of his Greenspit ascent:
"I'd say it's like a 5.12 crack to a V8 move, a bit on the powerful side, but nothing really that tricky."
Did he climb it onsight? Did he think it was F8b+? Are his routes on the Lleyn Peninsula harder?! FIND OUT HERE!
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50641
Just curious any idea where in Cham Thai Boxing is.... i could only dig up this which has a photo:
great route name btw.
'Chouette' means good/nice/great (literally 'owl' - don't ask!). Cute is 'mignon'.
I love this 'a bit on the powerful side'!
Awesome! No bullsh*t.
Pre-placed gear which he, er, put there. I don't see what's not true trad style about that.
He does in that interview at one point say "I had to move one of laurence's cams" - I read the sequence of events as being he put some cams in at the start of the roof, she put some in in the middle and then he flashed it on a mixture of the gear that they had both placed, shifting one of the later pieces along the way.
He does say:
'I put the first cams in for Laurence (Editor's note: Stevie then reversed to the ground, the first part of the route is relatively easy) then she had a go, placing two more cams.'
I'd still claim it.
WTF? I think you need to get out a bit more and smile a little!
This is inspirational climbing!
Whether or not you pre-place cams on this route makes very little difference to the difficulty.
Flash or onsight does.
How many goes did his other half have? Shame she didn't get it done as well - book a hotel next time eh Stevie?!
> > How many goes did his other half have? Shame she didn't get it done as well - book a hotel next time eh Stevie?!
sounds like she was pretty close ie one-hanging it....and with only 4 pieces in? looked like the guys in the vid had more.
Morgan, I placed 3 pieces after the initial easier climbing. There's a final bit of gear near the end but I skipped it for the sake of my burning pump ;-)
So of the 2 cams placed by Laurence one fell out and Stevie moved the other one.
cool....btw were you asking before about cracks in europe?....the one in Cham might be worth getting on....if only to deposit the retro bolts at the bureau de geeedes after a quick flash on gear....cost of number 6 cam £50, the look on their faces priceless ;p
potentially, although it's not specified that the cam pulled before stevies attempt or after,does it? Still, tom says it makes precious little difference, and that it's the flash vs onsight that's most relevant for this route.
> cost of number 6 cam £50
Wow, I need to shop where you shop :)
Don't worry Morgan, the Thai boxing trip is already planned for this summer ...
As for cams, wild country kindly provIde me their friends to fill those hideous wide cracks up! ;-)
Also, for the record I suggested a downgrade when I climbed this route. Lets also not forget that nico and didier took multiple days. For Stevie to do this first go, is so far the game, it's. Rediculous. Someone send him to Baffin!
If you're reading this Stevie, did u try the route 'gloves of war' we put up? Perfect offwidth roof crack.
> For Stevie to do this first go, is so far the game, it's. Rediculous.
and he seems quite nonchalant chalking up for the pic too.
Flashing an E9 with pre-placed gear is massively impressive! Good effort Stevie.
Tom said it'd be E8 (makes sense, safe, strenuous F8b) but still a hugely impressive flash ascent.
I've not seen any other mention of the E9, Nightstalker in the news report. Is this another new route of Stevie's on the Lleyn peninsula? Or a first repeat of someone else's route?
Don't get this need to reduce an ascent to E-numbers and British style dogmatics to quantify the achievement. E9, pre-placed gear, flash...it's all just ticking boxes.
In any case, he as good as says in the interview that it's easier than E9 (bottom end E6 to a [safe] 6c sequence, easier overall than 'Nightstalker'), and that he either placed, or in one case re-placed, the gear himself on lead.
Fair enough. I need to go find something genuinely objectionable to be objectionable towards :)
> It's not reducing the ascent to numbers, it's quantifying the achievement. A french grade does not explain a trad route fully. And at F8b/b+ it doesn't matter how well protected the route is it's still E8/9.
Stevie actually told me that it's more like a sport route. Well protected but hard. Gear straightforward to place.
He gave numerous Esperanto grades: V, YDS, Sport, E-grade....just to satisfy those who like their climbs measured, categorised and to fit neatly in a box....like that idiot in Sweden. And so some can shout hardest this and hardest that.
But read some of the lines, and inbetween them: cracks are morpho he says, finger and hand size dependent.
If you are a soul climber Franco, go and give it a go.... then keep quiet about it.
But please, stop the stupid bickering about freakin grades.
not sure if it is bickering but more the UK-centric mentality of needing everything put into a theoretical e-grade. 8b should be pretty well understood.
Yep, it means 'impossible' to me! ;-)
> Just curious any idea where in Cham Thai Boxing is.... i could only dig up this which has a photo:
> great route name btw.
I can see Thai Boxing crag from my house... it's in Vallorcine, not Cham. I did actually post a photo of it some months ago to see what UKC thought about the French bolting it - and still being unable to get up it. The result could be described as general apathy. (Incidentally Mick, they think it's more like 8a / +, still a long way from Craig's grade, and because it had no gear in it, didn't realise it had been done - and still didn't believe it when I told them!) I bolted all the other routes on the crag long before Craig's ascent but never considered bolting the crack for obvious (British) reasons. I'll see if I can put the photo back up for you before this thread dies, so you can see how badly it was bolted
quite right, the sooner people realise grades don't work in straight lines the better.
I've uploaded it Mick.
Hi Stevie, I can only relate what I've been told by the one person who is the nearest that I know of to doing it - Nico Potard - he may well of course have done it by now as it's quite old info now. He was gobsmacked when I told him it had been done using gear - and not just a little disbelieving! His tick list in Yosemite is very impressive - some of the big new free routes on El Cap - so no stranger to crack climbing. Also, who knows, someone else might just have done it by now - there's is absolutely no way of knowing as it's not the most frequented crag in the world. I personally haven't been back to the crag since I sent you there, except of course to take the photo (which still hasn't come up) of the crack when I wandered past on snowshoes last winter. One thing for sure is, that at least your prophecy of the French concreting it up hasn't happened. I emailed Craig for some other reason ages ago and mentioned the bolting to him and in his reply he seemed very sad...
Here you go Stevie, clearly the work of someone who doesn't even know how to bolt...
8-spray involved now....this could be a long one! but thanks for some of the history on the cham route and Jon too....will check out the pic.
Here's the original thread so you can see the opinions then - it's quite short so shouldn't bore the pants off you!
There's a wee bit more intrigue though. Just after we'd put up the routes, I took Neil Foster there and we did all the routes together - except the two I couldn't do. This was before your visits Stevie. For me the best route of the crag is the 7b+ in the middle. I was appalled to find that the crux had been made easier with an enlarged hold... This AFTER the first ascent.
Nice one Stevie. I like the new grade...E6 - a proper grade that covers all manner of good and evil.
Keep on my dear friend,
Elsewhere on the site
With four photos in this week's top ten, and a UKC gallery of stunning images we thought it was time we had a chat with... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more