UKC

What crags are in at the mo then? Anyone been out today? I'm hoping to go climbing tomorrow so any info much appreciated.

In reply to Andy S: Climbing grade XI, I would imagine most routes would be in to you

In reply to Ian Black: lol. I'm taking a rest day tomorrow and limiting myself to grade I/II ta

In reply to Andy S:
visited tarn/falcon crag today, not much going on, Tarn gully No 2 is complete; nothing else is 'in' that we could see from viewpoint beneath DW gully

In reply to Andy S: South Lakes for me tomoz anyone been up to Dow recently? Wondering if C Ordinary or Giant's Crawl in acceptable winter nick??

ta P

In reply to Andy S: I'm heading to scrubby, reckon anything above 700m will have something, great end will be awesome, and mobbed, I was thinking of setting up a bacon buttie and tea stall at the foot of the crag, but wondered how many climbers would have any money.......Would be a laugh to do it for charity.

Reckon most of the high Helvellyn range will have stuff, Great End, Gable, Scafell, maybe the summit crag on the Old Man, not sure about the Langdale stuff, haven't really got them sussed yet.

Green Room

In reply to Andy S:

Did Viking Buttress after work last night. The route's in brilliant nick, and it was an amazing night with a full moon and no cloud. Highlight of the night was turning off headtorches, crunching across the plateau and descending Swirral. Unforgettable.

Looks like simillair conditions tonight.

Cheers, Loz.

In reply to loz01:
Glad you had a good one mate. "full moon and no cloud" - hoping for that tomorrow night, think i'm going up to solo one of the gullies on great end

In reply to blanchie14c:

Routes in better nick due to colder temps, amazing sky and the crag to yourself - go for it!

Cheers, Loz.

In reply to loz01: Yeah was an amazing night wasnt it.Brilliant

In reply to loz01:


You'll be lucky, as I walked out from Great End on Friday evening at least 6 people were heading up to do stuff in the dark.

In reply to Andy S:
Walked up Deepdale today. Nothing in condition whatsoever (mixed or ice). Very good neve in the easier gulleys though.
In the end we contented ourselves with joining the crowds at red tarn for a few solos. Everything over that way seemed to be in very good nick.
Luke

In reply to pec: I soloed left branch this morning. Still plenty of ice, well kicked out though. There's good ice just left of the wee narrow channel just above the main ice pitch. Good Neve all the way. There was about eight others in the Gully, so I can imagine as the day went on it would have resembled the main street in Ambleside.

In reply to luketheape: Surprised nothing on Scrubby was in.

In reply to Andy S:

>> http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/loutdoor/mountainsafety/lakedistrict/lakedistri...

In reply to Andy S: Climbed on Low water crag today, surprised at how much of the beck was in, but probably not enough to do it yet, an early morning ascent on monday morning might pay dividends. It was thawing in the daytime sun. Did an amazing short icefall at the foot of the main crag then ascended south gully and descended North Gully. Technical gullies in ok nick, easy gullies cracking, mixed not in nick at all except maybe on the highest buttresses eg percy's passage. Some fresh slab on east facing exits but not much hazard.

What you all been up to?

In reply to pec:

That was friday, I doubt it will be busy on a sunday night!

In reply to Big Andy:






LOL! Maybe SE was quiet.

In reply to Andy S: Conditions very good up at Great end .Go very early as it was very busy we left the crag about 12.30 and there must have been about 6 or 7 parties in SE gully.
Also this could be the last weekend for cold weather here in the lakes very mild southerly winds by late next week so go and enjoy while you can.

In reply to Big Andy:
Did Hen Crag Buttress on Wetherlam this morning - a very fine and amenable outing climbed on excellent turf & old snow in full on sunshine & no wind.

DSM

In reply to DSM: found an icefall at red screes today! Was awesome!

Melting away mind so might not be there for too much longer.

In reply to loz01: Did Viking Buttress during the day - excellent route - must have been superb under full moon, good for you........

In reply to MadProfessor: Did Slingsby's Chimney on Scafell today which was excellent. Teams on Pisgah buttress direct, Steep ghyll and on the Shamrock. There are ice smears next to the Shamrock that look about 2/3. Turf is well frozen and ice is good where it exists. There were about 8 teams scattered about the crag so not too busy.
There are a few photo's on Ascent Training's blog

In reply to MadProfessor:
And great views of Mars at the mo as well - shining beautifully red last night beside the full moon (9pm)

In reply to Babika: Did DollyWagon gully yesterday. Several other parties on it. One party said chock gully was not in.

In reply to Ascent Training:
Was there anybody on Moss Gill? Thought it could have been icy...

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Moss Gill was done on Saturday by the look of the footprints! A team were seen attempting it today but I dont know whether they succeeded.

DSM

In reply to Andy S: anyone know what route we did yesterday? Bit of a silly question I know, but neither of us own a guidebook but we know it's a named route. If you're familiar with Red Screes at the moment it's the only proper icefall in there at the moment. Where it forks, we took the left-hand way up the column of ice. We met someone else on there who seemed to know what it was, but I can't remember what he said.

In reply to Big Andy:
We were out on Great End on Saturday too - Window Gully and South East Gully both in good nick. I dropped a black HB wiregate quickdraw from Window Gully - with red tape around each biner. Anybody find it and willing to send it back just email me. I know they're not expensive but I hate losing gear. Will re-imburse postage.

Cheers
Davie

In reply to DR:

If you were the guy climbing with Andy, the team of two behind us picked up your quickdraw. We met up with you just after you topped out.

wearing a lime green patagonia nano puff jacket, he was last seen heading back to Lancaster!

In reply to Andy S: Lets not all miss the blindingly obvious eh! Well, if you climb grade V

In reply to MattG:

It was very wet on Saturday, what was it like today?

In reply to MattG: eh?

In reply to Andy S: Sounds like Red Screes East Cove, Raven Crag left hand gully 100m ll if there was a ramp to the right of the ice pillar.

In reply to Exile:
Walked up at 19.00 sunday. Solo'd central gully right branch. Bit claggy on top but when it cleared the moonlit mountains were superb!
Perfect neve in the gully, imagine its the same in the other gullies. Fat ice in places too. Hard frost hit the car by the time I got down so conditions can only get better!
The path up to Great End is a nightmre. After only a third of the way up there are verglased rocks on the path. Kept cramps on as long as possible on decent and removed them when walking became unbearable. Fell on me arse twice shortly after!
Fantastic night on the mountain.

In reply to Andy S:

Saturday (expect nothing different Sunday or today) was very good on Great End, parties on everything. Worth the 05.00 start, 100 miles drive...worth every bit of it. Probably quieter if you arrived later! SE ice on crux probably bit hacked by now but otherwise superb easy neve. Other routes reported similar. Not much beats Great End and the Lakes on days like these...so long as you're not wanting to push hard grades.

In reply to Exile: It was too wet for me on the first pitch still!

In reply to MattG:

Glad to hear it! Would have hated to have missed it by a day! There was one other pair on the hill who did the second pitch, but they were shivering by the time they got to the top, and that was in full goretex armour.

In reply to Exile: well, 2 people did do it, but they were clearly very good, I'll lead IV/V normally, was really motivated but was far off leading the first pitch yesterday. The other hard variation was really detatched from the turf and rock under it, I poked it and it made bad noises and movements

In reply to Big Andy: hehe, I must admit I was in that queue - we abandoned and did another route instead. Did SE Gully on Sun afternoon instead, when the crowds had gone, bit hacked up, but brilliant route !!

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Steve Ashworth did Moss Ghyll with his dad on Saturday!
Steve's blog is useful to look at, he seems to be getting out a bit.
http://mixedmaster.blogspot.com/

In reply to MattG:

I'd have given them both a go, but the amount of water coming down would have drenched us and I'm not a fan of ghyll scrambling at the best of times! Anyway, a great day climbing somewhere new with only one other pair on the crag.

Any update and predictions for the weekend?

In reply to Mr Eddie:

http://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/weatherline

In reply to Mr Eddie:

Yeah mate it's fooked and getting fookeder until next week. You might just get some nice night time ice tho

http://www.mwis.org.uk/mountain/LD.PDF

In reply to Mr Eddie:
The met office mountain forecast says +4 on the summits today with heavy persistent rain, then +4 again tomorrow. Slightly cooler over the weekend, but will it be enough to refreeze whatever's left? I suspect not.

In reply to Andy S:

Went climbing yesterday on dollywagon, was in near perfect condition! clear skies until about 2pm, and very cold (my trousers were frozen solid!). Blizzard conditions later on though. Was anyone else out?

In reply to tobyk: I was out yesterday on the easy gullies above angle tarn. Perfect conditions. The little ice falls were still in good nick up there as well. From what I could tell from the walkin Bowfell Butress looked in good nic as well.

In reply to gcandlin:

http://mwis.org.uk/mountain/LD.PDF

looks like we're having a weekend off.

In reply to Toreador: I would say its been fairly dry all day and a lot cooler than forecast said.Also check out the weatherline forecast for next couple of days freezing level 900 meters tommorrow and it then gets lower on sunday and Monday.
Here in Braithwaite its been about plus 5 today.

In reply to Toreador: I would say its been fairly dry all day and a lot cooler than forecast said.Also check out the weatherline forecast( info supplied by the met office) for next couple of days freezing level 900 meters tommorrow and it then gets lower on sunday and Monday.
Here in Braithwaite its been about plus 5 today.

In reply to neil0968:
Thanks for the post. The BBC temps seemed to be certainly colder than what Mwis was suggesting and weatherline recorded 0.9 C on top of helvellyn today which isn't disasterous. A few frosts could sort things out.

Has anybody been down Langdale recently? How did Shelter icefalls look? Will Bowfell buttress strip completely in the thaw? Thinking of heading that way on sunday.

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: i might be throwing a bowl of milk down and see if the cat licks it up on sunday :O)

In reply to neil0968:

It may just be coming in a bit more slowly than was forecast, mild in Kendal at the moment.

In reply to Andy S: Looking good for next week temperatures are due to drop from late sunday onwards possible for a week or longer.

In reply to Andy S:

Great End today doing Window gully-still lots of ice on our climb but snow is soft and was 6 degs back at car after 6.00pm

In reply to Mr Eddie: We were out at Brown Cove Crags (Thur) and the ice was dripping at the botton of the routes. Snow was ok in the morning but by lunch it was getting soft and tools were not holding well even at the top of the routes. Turf was still solid. But walking out there was a wet layer on top. Might be ok tommorow but not that much snow left in the gullies there so I think by Sunday it will be very thin.
Its a shame as I have come back for 4 days from Belgium with the intention to winter climb!

In reply to mattish2000: ah you'll be right mate, just go higher I reckon there'll still be plenty to go at.

In reply to Andy S:

Anyone know the condition of the area around Red Tarn?

Cheers

S

In reply to ojp:
Anyone know if last night's precipitation fell as rain or snow? Looks like the clag's down today, can't see the tops on the webcams. But from the Pennine cams it all seems to have fallen as rain there.

In reply to Toreador:
0.4 C on top of Helvellyn today. So it may have been wet snow above around 750m? Although it was 6 C at Shap last night. Lets hope it gets a frost tonight.

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: 6 degrees in the Lakes can well produce snow above 700m or so

In reply to MattG:
Shap is at 300m!

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: error! You seen the new forecasts, we're not driving, I've a plan

In reply to mattish2000: Hi matt didnt know you where back over.You should of been over last weekend.Did viking buttress friday night in fullmoon light which was awesome.Was on brown cove crags on sunday.Conditions were spot on.

In reply to andyc123: Hi Andy, yeh I got the wrong weekend but I am playing polo on sat so no choice, going back on Monday. Going to get out with nick on sunday, might be rock climbing yet!

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

I reckon there's no danger if it's 0.4 on Helvellyn, but what we really need is someone who's actually been out today! It's the weekend now though, so if I don't get out myself (I'm working so I won't), I'm sure there will be plenty of reports by tomorrow evening!

In reply to Andy S:

May be a bit late but i was out yesterday feeling hopeful at Great End. Steered clear of Central Gully under thaw and went for window gully. Lots of soft snow - no surprise there - but good enough. Turf still frozen in the right places and the ice fall finish must have been very fat ( my 1st time there this season ) as it was still there. It was however mush on the surface ( about 3" deep )that needed clearing for placements and had running water i could hear behind it. The 1st fall wasn't touching down it was the second one i did and it was a bit iffy really.

In reply to : Camped at Helvellyn Red tarn thursday night [with belay bunny ]...continous fog from midday thursday til 1pm friday afternoon i didnt get to see the mountain for 24 hours. It rained thurday evening for hours and there was strong gusty gale force winds all night but my £19.99 Go Outdours mountain tent copy held together well. All evening it snowed above 700m and all the army of footprints had disappeared in the mourning No further snow during friday afternoon. And the clouds and fog cleared only when i was well into my walk out.

In reply to Andy S:

Superb conditions on Great end a couple of days ago

Here are some photos

http://yorkclimbers.ning.com/photo/window-gully-icefall-on-great?context=la...

http://yorkclimbers.ning.com/photo/window-gully-icefall-on-great/prev?conte...

In reply to midweekmountain:

And since then there have been 2 days where summit temps have been +4 and today looks even warmer.

see my post a couple up about window gully. It's slowly turning to mush.

In reply to brokenjockstrap:
Thanks for the post. Can I just clarfiy that whilst you were there it was just wet snow above 700m and heavy rain below this?

Thanks

NMM

In reply to biscuit:
Which will freeze brilliantly in a couple of days time...

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

Hopefully yes but for those wanting to go out this weekend i was trying to give a relevant report. Saying it was in good nick the day before a thaw isn't very helpful.

The lower fall was dripping, thin and about 3 ft from touching down yesterday. In his pics it's fully formed.

In reply to Andy S: i love these forums . loads of people sat in front of computers slagging each other off. leaves more room on the hills for the rest of us
keep up the good work lads

In reply to ramraider:

I get out during the week when there is plenty of room on the hills :0)

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: It rained lightly at Red tarn which is at about 800metres for about 3 hours thursday from 7pm...then it sleeted...then it snowed about 3 inches during friday early hours. I wouldnt call the snow wet above 800m as parts where still quite firm..no sinking past the toe of my boot and further up it was harder still. Did use crampons.

Went for a run around the Consiton Fells this morning (Old Man / Swirl How / Wetherlam), soloing Summit Route on the Old Man on the way in Walshes (don't do this!). Summit temperatures were certainly above zero - I got so hot I ran down with my shirt off - but snow that stays in the shade was quite well compacted & frozen. So if its climbing you're after go out early (very early), go as high up as you can, stay clear of the sun & be careful.

DSM

In reply to Andy S: central gully at great end very good with nice 1 nice 3ish ice pitch

In reply to koolkat:

SHHHHH!! keep it to yourself, or the place will be swarming!!

In reply to davey_briggs: it will be anyhow :O)

In reply to Andy S: Been to Foule crag on Blencathra this morning nothing on the crag is in condition we ended up Foule crag gully which has just enough snow left in it the turf was good. Finished up Sharp Edge which is fairly free of snow.

Any more updates on the conditions in the Lakes, as im off up there tomorrow???

In reply to spartan:
Climbed 'No Way out' IV on Cambridge Crag today. The top half of the crag is in excellent condition with good neve and LOTS of thin ice all over the place. The top pitch is a really good IV 5 runnel. I would give it a star.

Bowfell buttress has neve on the ledges but the rock was black, no rime at all Turf still great though.

NMM

In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: Yeah it was very good, some of the routes on the left of the crag that are a bit lower aren't in good nick yet but will improve. I'd definitely visit again

In reply to spartan: went to great end this morning, we did south east gully, started climbing around 8.30 am, had the route to ourelves, was in great nick, frozen all the way up, although it was thawing when we got back down to our bags, but with the forecast for this week , i`d expect the gully routes to be in nick for the foreseable future.

davey.

In reply to davey_briggs: Thanks for that, I am packing as we speak.

In reply to spartan: Cambridge Crag was better quality than Red Tarn on Helvellyn IMHO, Cambridge Crag Climb is a good II in very good neve at the moment and some of the higher grooves are also in good nick, I'm sure the others will improve with the cold this week.

In reply to MattG: we were out on Brown Cove Crags today first thing, had the place to ourselves. Was frosty setting off and the neve in the gullies was great. Was warming up this pm, will post some pics in a bit.

In reply to Andy S: We were on Scafell today. Did Steep Ghyll in great conditions. Hardly anybody there strangely.

In reply to spartan: Climbed at Angle Tarn area on Saturday and the neve was bomber. It is all but north facing and Angle Tarn itself was completely frozen over. There is not much snow below 600 metres. Start high and stay high!

In reply to Andy S: Did viking butress LH and Blade runner on red tarn cove today. Conditions good, frozen all day.

In reply to davey_briggs: Also went on SE Gully on Great End. Lots of people on Central Gully so went for SE as there was only one party on it when we arrived. Fantastic route in generally good condition.

SE Gully on Great End was good on Saturday as others have said, though only a couple of steep bits and the rest is a bit of a plod. There was also a nice ice pitch (about 3) just as you contour round the crag on the way off, probably not thick enough for screws but a good solo (also a couple of shorter bits of rotten ice).

Went up to Bowfell Buttress today as had heard that it was in condition. As noted above, the rock was pretty bare with just bits of snow on the ledges, so we decided it wasn't really in proper winter nick. Ledge and Groove on the right hand side of the buttress was looking more wintry, so we did that or a variation thereof - wasn't really clear exactly where it's meant to go, particularly on the last couple of pitches, so we just followed what looked like a logical line. Really good climbing on thin neve and frozen turf on the last couple of pitches - they are on the North side of the buttress so don't get the sun. North Gully just to the side looked in fairly easy condition with a line of bucket steps and a couple of steeper bits. One team on that today.

Was very suprised by bomber turf yesterday at Red Tarn. Went to do Viking buttress but it was completely black, so we went up Blade Runner which was in very good nick and probably at the easier end of it's grade at the moment due to abundance of ice and neve. Enjoy.

In reply to Stonejunky:

Also at Angle Tarn, but on Saturday. Plenty on snow and ice around the tarn and above, but not much below it. Climbed both the icefalls, both in good nick although the upper icefall had a fair bit of cruddy, fragile ice higher up, got a shower doing the final moves as well.

In reply to Misha:
We were on North gully (sun). Excellent conditions all the way. Although the guide book doesn't mention the chockstone at the bottom (which was entertaining). I gather it's usually banked out. If the temperatures drop as suggested Cambridge crag will be in for the weekend.

In reply to Matt_b: I did Viking Buttress and thought it was fine, neve or frozen turf when you needed it. Top section was very tough, we went left up a short wall with a couple of cracks in it. I guess this is the Left Hand finish?

In reply to The New NickB:

My post should read that I was at Angle Tarn on Sunday.

In reply to Martin Haworth: We did this the w/e before last and found that top crack quite stiff - we thought it WAS the LH finish but it didn;t quite tally with the guidebook which then suggests you traverse right and join the original line/groove - the route for us just finished at the top of the crack....

In reply to MadProfessor: I agree. If you went any further left you would be traversing into No1 Gully which is the easy finish (III).
The normal route is given tech 4. I dont know about you but that top crack, although short, felt tech 6 to me.

In reply to Martin Haworth:
Most impressive event on Sunday was the superb catch of the camera that came shooting down No. 1 Gully !!!!!!!!!

In reply to Andy S: my mate was very impressed by your wicket keeping skills,well done
i also thought that finish on viking butress was tricky if you were the 3 fellas at the bottom that warned me you need to 6' 6" you were right!!

In reply to Martin Haworth: Well certainly a solid tech 5 and if there hadn't been a couple of solid placements in the neve at the top with which to haul one's arse over it would have been, as the young'uns say, a total mission...

In reply to MadProfessor:
I do hope you can follow instructions in the operating theatre better than guidebook instructions !!!
Or do you just give them ??

In reply to Geordie: You'll be hearing from my solicitor, young man!

In reply to Martin Haworth:

I thought it was Tech 6 when I id it last week, but it was at night so i couldn't be sure.

Did Bladerunner last night; it's really choked with ice and in great nick. I thought it was a brilliant pitch, worth a star at least. Very cold and windy, heavy snow showers and the butress's (what we could see) were hoared up nicely.

The crag is in excellent condition.

Cheers, Loz

In reply to Andy S:

I'm spending a week in Eskdale next week, (13th to 20th Feb ) and hoping to do a couple of very easy gullies. The ones I have in mind are Deep Ghyl on Scafell and Bridge ( or Cust's ) gully on Great End. I've done both before, but many years ago, and my FRCC guide book is even older. They are both listed as descents, but Deep Ghyl is listed as 1/2.

Is the harder bit of Deep Ghyl at the bottom, so it would be easier to use West Wall Traverse to get into the top half? I remember Deep Ghyl being full of snow and kicking steps all the way up, nothing of any difficulty, ditto Bridge Gully.

Is there anything I've missed?
Anyone been there recently? What condition are they in?

There seems to be more snow forecast which would change it of course.

In reply to Andy S:

Hi, did Deep Ghyll on Sunday. Start is hard cos not much snow - but rest is fine. We joked that teh grade should be I 4!

In reply to Bluebeard:

I did Easy Gully on Scafell Shamrock, that's a good quality easy snow gully in the area too.

In reply to Anonymous: I mean years ago though, not recently

In reply to Andy S:

Very nice ice at Red Screes today. Freeezing level just below the crag at 1230

In reply to Bluebeard:
.

Lower section of Deep Gill can be stiff, see post above, with little snow. Far better than Custs would be Long Gully on Pikes Crag and the Descent gully from the Pulpit.

Cheers
Iain

In reply to Andy S: Anyone been out today? Ive looked at Wasdale webcam, not sure if the picture was up to date as it shows Gable completely devoid of snow. Im looking at heading over to the Lakes tomorrow, would appreciate any up to date info ergo choice of venue. Info on gully routes would be great. I am planning on heading up to Great End, have heard Skew Gill is a good approach, anyone know if this has been in condition lately or if it makes a half decent scramble even if not in winter nick? Looks like getting slightly colder this week anywho.

In reply to martin_whitton: Great End will be good for sure, just start early! Gable always looks bare on that south face

In reply to martin_whitton:

Did Easy Gully on Dow today. Continuous snow apart from at the higher chockstone (scrambly move). Straightforward, enjoyable cramponing. Walked back down past Low Water Beck which didn't appear to be holding any ice (didn't have a real close look).

Does anyone think that Bowfell Links will be in condition given that it's S facing and that it hasn't snowed properly for a while?

Also, Moss Ghyll is said to be IV and not V if there's a good build-up. For anyone who's done it recently, is there a good build-up/plenty of ice, is it grade IV or V at the moment?

In reply to clams: Bowfell Links may have some neve in the gullies but the snow looked a little fragmentary through the mist on Sunday, could be ok in the deeper lines though? Cambridge Crag climb is a good II if that's what you want, it's in good nick at the moment. Some of the other lines on Cambridge were fine on Sunday but Bowfell Buttress was a bit naked for a winter ascent

In reply to MattG:
Hmmm fragmentary, like Dow today (not much else looked 'in'). Looking for III and IV ice and snow gully climbs really, that's why Bowfell LInks caught my eye cos it has plenty of these seemingly.

In reply to loz01:





Did Bladerunner for the first time today and thought it was well worthy of a star. Steady climbing, but enough variation to keep up the interest. It was very wintery on top.


Ian.

In reply to martin_whitton:
Confirmed! Great End in great nick. Did SE and Window today. Good ice and neve. The dry wind has blown a bit of powder off the top and filled in all the weekend step holes nicely!

In reply to clams: Go and have a look coz the gullies might have stuff in and No Way Out on CAmbridge Crag was a decent IV 5 back up plan with the crux pitch on neve and thin ice, it deserved the tech 5 though

In reply to Removed User:

Iain, which gully are you calling "Long Gully"?

Cheers
Ian

In reply to Bluebeard:

It's the last gully on the left hand end of Pikes Crag looking from Hollowstones. Cuts a very obvious slanting line, right to left, is easily identified from the valley road.